Ways of tunning up TB-01?

[ken]

Hi again!

I was just wondering, what are the possible hop ups (tamiya and non tamiya) that a TB-01(enzo ferrari) use? [?]

What are the most essential hop ups?

I am now using a LRP quantum reverse ESC(16T-36T), but have yet change the kit motor as I am confused on the types of motor out there(stock, modified,rebuildable stock??)[?][?]

can someone give me some "lectures" on the differences of these motor?[]

Any TB-01 owners here? May I ask what did you do to your car?

Ohh and I find that tunning of the steering a pain as well[xx(], any advice from you guys? I read from a mag that this car got some bad steering slops(whats that[?][?]), what can be done?

Sorry for the load of questions...my mind are jammed with these questions that just dont go away...[]

Many Many Thanks!!

ken

[ShowRide]

Hi Ken,

I have 2 TB-01 chassis, one which was a standard Tamiya in the beginning and another which I've build from scratch. I upgraded the Tamiya TB01 by changing the steering, I used the aluminum hop-up for that and it's a lot better now. I also changed the motor by an LRP 16 turn motor and it's fast as lighting now. I also installed high quality bal bearings all around to make optimal use of the new motor. The second TB01 I have you can see together with the explanation in my showroom so here's the link: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=5160&id=632

Hope it helps you a little bit...

Greetz,

ShowRide

[ken]

Hi ShowRide,

Thanks for replying!

I was looking at Penguin carbon fiber chassis the other day and find it tempting as well.[]

Oh and I simply love the purple alum parts of yours too!

I am looking at http://www.eaglemodel.com/en/cont05/menu05.html now, which parts did you get?

Thanks!

[ShowRide]

I got the purple front steering blocks, the front hub carriers, the fornt lower suspension arms, the rear hubs, the rear lower suspension arms, the motor mount, the center main shaft and 6pcs ball bearing bell crank (steering). Besides that I also got 2 pair of Hot Bodies purple alu shocks and different kind of purple alu screws.

Before you start ordering all these I'd like to point you out that if you want to drive the car you better NOT buy all of these because it's for an awfull lot of money so you don't want to make any scratches on these... It's OK if you want to have a shelf queen but not for a runner. If you want to run it just buy some standard hop-ups.

Greetz,

ShowRide

[Igottamiya]

Have to agree with what the others have already said.

There are lots of hopups you can apply to the TB01 (TG10 is very similar). Have a look at my TG10 CLK you'll see that there are Tamiya parts galore. I like them because they are not coloured (ie: silver).

One of the best of the hop ups is the long arm set. It will widen the stance of the car. This is supposed to be great for handling. You should also get universals both in the front and rear.

[ShowRide]

Hi everyone,

since Ken launched a very interesting thread on the TB-01 I wanted to add a question to which I didn't yet find the answer myself. Since I'm going to replace my motor in short term I'd like to know something before buying the new motor.

My question is: which is the fastest combination of electric motor and gear/pinion on the TB-01. And which is the maximum speed that you get than?

Greetz,

ShowRide

[lji86]

quote:Originally posted by ShowRide

Hi everyone,

since Ken launched a very interesting thread on the TB-01 I wanted to add a question to which I didn't yet find the answer myself. Since I'm going to replace my motor in short term I'd like to know something before buying the new motor.

My question is: which is the fastest combination of electric motor and gear/pinion on the TB-01. And which is the maximum speed that you get than?

Greetz,

ShowRide

---

id="quote">id="quote">

hi,

in my tb01 i have a trinity p2k2 motor with an 18T pinion and its very quick

lewis

[WillyChang]

fastest gear/pinion on the TB-01

Biggest pinion (25?) + smallest spur

fastest motor

How big's your wallet and how good are your batteries & ESC? [}]

Sky's the limit on single-digit wind modified motors, or just buy a whole brushless setup if you're not into racing.

[ShowRide]

Hi WillyChang,

my battery and ESC are OK (3300m nimH and 7+ turn ESC) since I don't race and want to keep it more or less reasonable in price I exclude the brushless setup.

If I use the 25 to 55 pinion/spur gear do you think that a 8x2 motor would have enough "punch" for a fast start?

Greetz,

ShowRide

[malcolm]

Low wind modifieds generally give high revs and lower torque at stall, so need lower gearing (smaller pinion) for good acceleration. According to Tamiya, the overall ratio of the TB01 is from 9.9 to 5.7 to 1. A really wild modified like an 8 would be rather overgeared at 5.7 to 1, which is the sort of gearing that stock motor racers use.

You may not be trying to make 5 minute runs, but the motor will still overheat severely with a large pinion and your £60 modified won't last very long. If the magnets get very hot they loose their strength and then the motor is just a door stop!

[malcolm]

quote:Originally posted by ken

I am now using a LRP quantum reverse ESC(16T-36T), but have yet change the kit motor as I am confused on the types of motor out there(stock, modified,rebuildable stock??)[?][?]

can someone give me some "lectures" on the differences of these motor?[]

---

id="quote">id="quote">

I'll try not to lecture!

The kit Tamiya motor (gold 540) was developed into two types of motor, the 'stock' and the 'modified'.

The so called stock motor now has 27 turns of a single wind around each of it's 3 poles. It still uses bushes but has replaceable brushes and has a fixed end-bell. In 1999 Trinity produced the Paradox, which was the first 're-buildable' stock. The end bell can be removed and so the armature can be taken out and skimmed to restore the comm for maximum performance. Both of these motors have the timing fixed at 24 degrees of advance. This is a heck of a lot of advance and gives the motor lots of rpm, at the expense of efficiency. Since we have 2400, 3000 and 3300 cells, so what! Well the poor motor gets very hot and it's life can be brief if over-geared!

The 'modified' motor has ball races instead of bushes, and the end bell is adjustable to change the timing. The rules allow the armature to be wound with any number of turns, 12, 13, 19 etc. Winds vary and you will see singles, doubles, triples etc. The most popular are the doubles, as they give a good combination of torque versus rpm. As a rule of thumb, a triple will rev higher but have less torque than a double of the same wind. Medium winds, like 15 to 19, give significantly improved output over the kit motor, and as long as you keep the timing advance at a small amount (probably just as it came) they will give long life and good run times, if geared properly.

If you go to the extremes, then you are trying to get more and more out of the same size brush/commutator/case. Something has to give and it is usually reliability!

If you want your Tamiya to go a good bit quicker and not break the bank, look out for the mid priced modifieds like the Orion Orbital series. The armature is usually machine wound and they won't have the very latest in magnet technology, but that will make little difference. They will last longer and cost nearly half the price of the top of the range motor. They are also longer lasting than re-buildable stock motors, and a good bit faster. They will make the car a bit exciting to drive though!

The rebuildable stock is a great concept and I like them a lot. I have raced them indoors and out and have learned how to make them last. They do need a fair bit of TLC and will not take kindly to abuse. They are really intended for racer's who use them because they have to. If you are not running in competition, their only advantage is the low initial cost.

Enough for this post. If you want any more, just ask!