madbad jezza 0 Posted July 28, 2003 sometimes tyres have to be glued onto the wheel rims. thats all very well, but when they wear out, how do you get them off again without wrecking a perfectly usable rim?. i,ve considered putting the wheel/tyre into some boiling water to try and melt the glue....would that be possible?. any help or ideas would be gratefull. cheers!. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mooplea 0 Posted July 28, 2003 Acetone, nail polish remover to you and me... now you can pay £30 and buy the tyre remooover kit from trackside solutions, or you can pay £5 and get twice as much from a chemist. leave your wheels in overnight, and they come out perfect... ive not tested it on vintage wheels or tyres so you might want to test first... but it definately does not harm modern buggy wheels and tyres whatsoever.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madbad jezza 0 Posted July 28, 2003 hey, thanks very much!, i,ll give that a try []. much appreciated!. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteveH(2) 0 Posted July 29, 2003 Good old 'boil em off' method works for me. Old saucepan, bring to boil, submerse wheel n tyre, leave for 10 mins, peels of fairly easy and the foam inserts are reusable if you use them. CAUTION... I've never tried this on 'vintage' wheels and the water retained by the foam inserts will still be hot when peeling the tyre off! Oh, and don't use the missus's best pots! [] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
risoan 0 Posted July 29, 2003 Well if the manual says glue it you don´t have to put the glue on the whole rim. Glueing is just to prevent the tire from popping off the rim. Just make some glue spots. Four spots on each side of the wheel should be enough. They work very fine and you can easily tear the tire off the rim if wanted. Hope I could help a bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
much2much 0 Posted July 29, 2003 No so sure about that risoan. Even with a stock motor, the tyres on my M02 chassis will lift off the rims at high rpm's due to centrifugal force(I know there's no such thing but that's another matter []). By only glueing part of the tyre, you allow irregular radial deformation and affect the balance of the wheel. You may get away with it on something slower, like a clod but don't quote me on that Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madbad jezza 0 Posted July 29, 2003 what i,ve found once i,ve glued the tyre is, even if you only put a small spot of glue in say, four places around the wheel (all opposite each other) once the tyre is pulled back on the rim, the glue runs around the rest of the rim anyway - capillery action, i think its called? although i,m probably wrong on that term!. vintage tyres seem to be ok because the 3 piece wheel set up clamps the tyre. this has come about because i wore the tyres out on my nitro racer the other day. i bought some new ones but i couldn,t get the worn out tyres off the old rims. i managed to eventually rip one tyre off but the wheel looked a right mess so i had to buy some new wheels(doh!). i,ve had to glue the rear tyres on my blitzer beetle aswell because thats been a bit hopped up lately, and there,s no way i could get the power down without the wheels spinning inside the tyres (it was just like a nitro car!). i,m happier now i know that i dont have to keep buying wheels everytime i want to change a tyre [] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twmaster 1 Posted July 29, 2003 I have found that you must glue all the way around to get the tire to really stay on. I kept having handling problems on my TCS car until somebody pointed out the tire flex during cornering at speed and such. I then glued tham all the way and the problem was gone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jozza(2) 0 Posted July 29, 2003 Should you glue the inside and outside edges, or just outside? I did 5 dots of Super Glue on the outside edge and it seems to be okay. (I scratched the paint job I did on the wheels though, so might need to strip my tires off sometime to repaint them!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madbad jezza 0 Posted July 29, 2003 all i do is fit the tyre to the wheel as normal, then just gently roll the tyre edge back slightly so to expose the wheel and the groove the tyre fits into. then just put a decent drop of superglue into the exposed part of the rim and the roll the tyre back into place, making sure its seated properly in the rim. i do that in four places on the outside of the tyre and four places on the inside of the tyre. making sure after each glue that the tyre is seating properly. i,ve not had any running problems...yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr_lister999. 3 Posted July 29, 2003 Just buy the wheels www.modeltech.co.uk sell. They can be boiled off with a guarentee you wont distort them. They are super rigid as well so helps you setup the car as its one less variable to worry about. Not bad for the price really as they should in theory last for as many sets of tyres as you can use! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted July 30, 2003 CAUTION:- most Tamiya touring car wheels made of standard ABS plastic WILL NOT SURVIVE acetone, they will simply dissolve into a jelly blob. The only Tamiya wheels that will survive are the carbon-reinforced black ones (comes in mesh & 5-spoke and Mini minilite). The ABS also melts under high heat. You might be able to get away in boiling water, but if they sit too close to the bottom of the pot they could melt or distort. Do not dry them on a heater or powerful hairdryer either. Generally speaking, with the non-Tamiya brands... nylon wheels will survive acetone & boiling, the ABS & lexan ones won't. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
