fast motor question

[jimbob4000]

hi does anyone know where i can get a cheap 10 turn motor.

Hopefully for under £30.

Thanks

Adam

[GPZ1000RX]

If you are thinking about putting a 10T motor in your BYMCO or similar, you need to be aware that it will almost certainly destroy something(s) in the transmission. IF it doesn't wreck the speed control or itself (due to overgearing) first!

Budget cars, including Tamiyas, are not designed for such hot motors.

[Gates Mini Racing]

11T seems to be alright in my TB02 so far [?] Maybe i'm just lucky/boardering on damage [8)]

Mike

[GPZ1000RX]

I think I may not have made myself all that clear in my last post.

I was refering to "budget" cars, not Tamiyas in general.

A TB02 should be fine with a hot motor in it, because it is NOT built to a low price, a TL01 or TT011 will not be because they ARE built down to a price!

I strongly suspect that Jimbob wants to put a 10T in a BYMCO car, and they are VERY built down to a price!!!!

[Gates Mini Racing]

Oops sorry [:I]

[jimbob4000]

quote:

I strongly suspect that Jimbob wants to put a 10T in a BYMCO car, and they are VERY built down to a price!!!!

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My Bycmo rc car cost me £260 (w/radio kit, batt & charger)

the speed controller is a mech one so i should be okay, i think.[8)]

i am very confused

Please help, thanks

Adam

[GPZ1000RX]

Are you building your car in installments, via a regular magazine/instruction pack, every couple of weeks?

If so, then the bad news is that you are in the process of paying a lot of money for a not very good car, probably not as good as a TT01 or TL01 I'm afraid!

Don't worry, I've done the same sort of thing myself in the recent past and I am more than old enough to know better!!!

Finish building it up and have fun learning how to build a car,drive it, maintain it and repair it. But DON'T try to tune it up power wise, even a 27T stock is pushing it mechanically! Spend NOTHING thats not necessary to keep it going, you will be wasting your cash on that car.

Chalk it up to experience and save up your money for your next car and apply all your hard won experience to a TT01 or similar.

Forget about 10T motors it WILL destroy you transmission and your MSC.

It's a hard lesson I know, but even us oldies get sucked in by the glossy adverts some times.

[Virus]

quote:A TB02 should be fine with a hot motor in it, because it is NOT built to a low price, a TL01 or TT011 will not be because they ARE built down to a price!

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i dissagree a little GPZ1000RX the TT01 is able to take hot motors as it has a spur hopup (2) and 19,20,21,22 pinion options i run a 14x3 hot motor and it all seems fine, the TL01 may not take a too hotter motor but the TT01 can

Paul

[mr_pushrod]

I can't see why a TT-01 shouldn't be able to take that power. All I would suggest is ESC, bearings and the alloy propshaft as a the standard one would hit the chassis!

[GPZ1000RX]

I see what you guys are saying but, too an extent, you both agree with with me that the TT needs hop ups to take the power.

If you have to spend the money do do that then it was probably better to buy a better spec model to start with, if you can afford it.

My most recent racing was electric F1 and I used the Tamiya f101/2/3 series cars, cheap, simple fast and fun. But to set them up/tune them meant buying an ever increasing range of Tamiya hop ups ranging from £2 to £80 in price. the result is that I have an F103 with only a small handfull of it's original parts left! and it's certainly cost well over £300!!! it's a beaut. but theres a rub......

My most recent race car is the Corally F1 graphite which cost far more than a basic F103 but about half the final cost of my fully hopped up 103. However it is totally ready to go with any wind motor and fully adjustable out of the box, NO expensive hop ups required!!!! On the recomended set up I was 1 1/2 laps faster than with the 103 at the first meeting with plenty more to come.

The point is that if you want speed there is no substitute for buying something designed for it from the start, it is almost always cheaper in the long run and a better performer along the way too!

Budget cars have limitations that are best respected. I enjoy my less expensive Tamiyas as RC semi scale cars with minimum mods (bearings and ESC usually) To go racing again a Surikan replica would be wonderful but many others go as well for far less cash.

Jimbobs car is the classic example of where not to start if you want to end up fast! The budget Tamiyas are far better but far from ideal if speed is your goal.

The only logical reason for not spending the cash up front is if a "lad" is the user, lads tend to wreck everything no matter how expensive so the cheaper the better in this case! The TT & TL are ideal for this (their target market) Sadly Jimbobs car will probably prove to be too cheap.

[jimbob4000]

quote:

Are you building your car in installments, via a regular magazine/instruction pack, every couple of weeks?

If so, then the bad news is that you are in the process of paying a lot of money for a not very good car, probably not as good as a TT01 or TL01 I'm afraid!

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The answer to the first part is yes, but to the second, well, the car you say is not that good but it goes 40kph on tarmac.

Are you sure it couldn't handle something like a 20 or 22t motor?

[GPZ1000RX]

Only one way to find out for sure!

But first, ask yourself, if something does break, can you get spare parts, how long will it take and how much will they cost?

Try a 27T 24degree stock first, they are a lot faster than the silver "can" motors.

If that's OK try a 19T stock next.

Both of the above motors will be good for your next car, you really are pushing your luck with this one tho!

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

[Virus]

ok my tt01 has ballrace set one 21t pinion a 14x3 orbital pro bb hot motor and an futaba mrc330cr esc with a 1500 mAh 6 cell pack (cheapo brand)this setup would keep any person happy (it certainly does me anyways)till the battery runs out if u was thinking of racing u wouldnt be looking at beginer grade cars eg TL01,TT01,ect,ect.i will say they are not realy good enough for racing because u do have to spend money on hopups. both the tt01 and tl01 can be given hot motors an with a few pennys spent they will go fast but not as fast as the racers of today.

anyways Jimbob4000 good luck and hope it all goes well an keep us posted

Paul

[mr_pushrod]

I agree, there are plenty of cars that would be better for taking quick motors. A Yokomo MR4 TC or Schumacher Mission can both be had for £99.99 but these are both a lot harder to build and maintain. If you already have a TT-01 then ballraces and a propshaft are a much cheaper alternative than a whole new car. Sure it won't handle as well but if you are just bashing then it doesn't matter greatly.

[El Mexican]

On the original subject:

Hudy motors are a good and cheap for what your looking for: I belive they run all way down to 8 turns, jimbob4000.

I run a 10t on my Dynastorm and its insane. In fact, its just uncontrollable and the heat produced is not good for batteries and ESC.

From the little info Ive gathered, they are the same make as Team Orion motors, but just a different stamp on the can. Check them out, they're certanly cheapier than Trinity and other better known brands.

[jimbob4000]

To answer GPZ1000RX's guestion the replacment parts are easy to get, you can get them for free.

what difference will a stock 27t motor make if that is the same as an RS540 or "silver can" motor has 27t?

Right now i don't have any money to spend on a TT01 or whatever since i am getting my Dad's birthday present. (which is £60)

[GPZ1000RX]

A 27T stock motor is a very different animal to the 27T silver can motor that comes with most kits. Stock is a very popular racing class and the motors are built to international regulations in order to limit cost. A lot of racing clubs only allow stock motors to be used.

The result is that the manufacturers spend a lot of R & D time on maximising the speed of these motors.

They cost about £27 UK from most shops, ask for a torquey one rather than a revvy one.

They really do go loads better than the kit motor, they look good and flash too!

[jimbob4000]

I have seen a motor from www.anticsonline.co.uk, it's a Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Motor. It has 27T and it's 24 degree. (PLEASE EXPLAIN)

It is £27.50

There is also a Trinity Motor Green Machine off the same website. It says that I won't need to ballrace your car, it can be used with same gear ratio as normal and it increases power by up to 10%.

Although it doesn't say the turns at all.

What do any of you make off it????

OH, and, by the way GPZ1000RX, I was driving my Subaru yesterday and to my (and maybe your) amazement the car is very good indeed!?!?

[GPZ1000RX]

Glad to hear that you are enjoying it mate.

Bear in mind all thats been said, and go easy with the big power mods.

Your first mod has to be ballraces all round, if you can fit them, this will make the car more free running and will make the transmission better able to handle any future extra "go".

Then fit an good ESC, these are much better than the MSC that the kits come with.

Finally go for a 27T 24degree stock motor, the Trinity you mentioned should be good, or perhaps a Trinity P2K. I think the green machine may be less suitable tho, because it's a revver (I think)

Whatever motor you end up with, the first two mods are very desirable first.

[jimbob4000]

Aah, I thought i might have to ball race it. There's just one problem there, you see the only ballrace kits i can get hold of are for Tamiyas and HPIs.

I don't whether these will fit my car.

And what 24 degree mean on a motor?

thanks

Adam

[Virus]

jimbob have a look in the parts section in tamiyaclub or may be theres a member that could help with these bearings u need u could write to the kit company and see if they can give u info on what size bearings u would need to get

Paul

[GPZ1000RX]

If your car has plastic or solid metal bearings which you have to fit as you do the kit build (like Tamiya kits do) then all you need to do is get the sizes out of the instructions or measure the actual bearings.

You need Outside diameter Inside diameter & Width all in mm.

These things tend to be in standard sizes.

Most good model car shops will be happy to sell 4 off size A 3 off size B 6 off size C etc etc. cost £1.50 to £2.50 each

[Matt2000]

Jimbob's nearly finished building the car now. but he isn't always very good at driving. one time we took it out, he reversed it into someone's gate, and dented the rear bumber and 'boot' part.

then we took it out more recently and lost a wheelnut, the left-front wheel was bouncing everywhere, nd we never found the nut!

[GPZ1000RX]

Think what could be lost, broken or dented if he had 4 or 5 times the power to play with!!!!!!!!!!![:0]

[jimbob4000]

quote:Originally posted by GPZ1000RX

Think what could be lost, broken or dented if he had 4 or 5 times the power to play with!!!!!!!!!!![:0]

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I could always put some polysterene between the body and bumper