Halfords Clear Coat WARNING!

[Petrolhead]

Today I finished the painting on my Pajero body, and left it do dry. Once it had dried I sprayed it with Halfords Clear Coat. To my horror, within one minute, most of the paint had dissolved/dissapeared so I could see beneath it. I then had to remask it, and spray it again. I guess it's my fault for not checking, but I'm just warning you that it will ruin any TS/PS and most model paints.

My loss is your gain (in knowledge!)

[fastboy]

thats probably because its cellulose based...as you said,you should have checked

[DJTheo]

Sorry to hear that, but its always recommendable to avoid using different types or brands of paint for the different layers, see the postitive side of it, at least you found a paint stripping alternative... [8)]

Cheers

[jozza]

Sorry you suffered that, Petrolhead - it's one of the worst things when you have done a good paintjob and something ruins it at the end. Something I suffered when I put some Fender Mender on my first Lexan shell and watched as it dissolved all of my hard work before my eyes.

I primered my Monster Beetle shell with some enamel primer (all I had to hand at the time), and top coated it with Tamiya paint. After some months, the Tamiya paint was still soft and I laid the shell on a soft cloth to protect it, ended up with an impression of the cloth in the paintwork []. It's finally dried now, but I'm going to have to strip and redo it. I'm also going to have to remove all of the LEDs and wiring first (64 of them). Since these disasters, I now always use the same manufacturer for primer and paint wherever possible.

[theshopkeeper]

Jozza - probably the enamel primer that didn't set - Humbrol stuff is worse for this, you can put a thumb print in Humbrol up to a year later sometimes!

[jozza]

Ah good point, didn't think of that. The primer felt dry when I overcoated, but it could have still been soft. It's had the best part of 8 months to dry now, so I'm going to sand and recoat it, can't be bothered with stripping it to the bare shell again. Or maybe I'll just pick up a Blitzer shell instead, and chuck this one in the bin []

[Petrolhead]

Sorry to hear of your misfortunes. Like Theo said, do you think it would work as a paint stripper (anyone willing to try it!!)

[jozza]

quote:Originally posted by petrolhead

Sorry to hear of your misfortunes. Like Theo said, do you think it would work as a paint stripper (anyone willing to try it!!)

---

id="quote">id="quote">That's the spirit []. It's all part of the learning curve, and the best thing is to just start again and remember it next time. I've made a few mistakes with painting, make less now that I'm more experienced. I still don't like painting hard shells though, much prefer Lexan, probably because I'm used to that, doing touring car shells for friends, club members and anyone else who wants them means that I've probably done in excess of 30, whereas I've only ever done a handful of hard shells.

Actually, I wonder if Fender Mender would be a good stripper? If it's put on thin enough it peels off, with all of the paint mixed in it. Hmmmmmmm, food for thought!

[Petrolhead]

Hmm..worth a go I guess, although I'm not trying it []

The pajero is done now: a few pics up here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...=26052005215240

[jozza]

Looks nice mate, particularly the lights [8D]

[Brat Attacks]

Strange that Halfords paint stripped your paint. It's acrylic based and should go on lots of things l would have though. What you can do like l do now is use halfords paint. As l said, it's acrylic so it will stick to hard plastics without eating into the plastic and it gives you a HUGH choice of colours. Halfords also mix paint to order so see anything nice....they will mix it.

Just as a by-the-by, Barbie is painted with 2 pack on acrylic primer and has lasted well considering what l put her through.

Stuart

[Petrolhead]

Well, yesterday I set about stripping my Nitro car shell, with Nitro. I was getting bored, but then I remembered the Clear Laquer! So, I sprayed it on and the paint just wiped off! You had to wipe it off as soon as you finished spraying it, otherwise it would dry. And it needs to be sprayed on quite thickly. But boy did it work. It took me about 15 mins (and a whole can of the stuff, but I'm sure I could have been more conservative) to get it stripped. Job jone. Maybe a new alternative to the other methods I wonder?

[T.C~Tamiya]

Although the Halfords paint is acrylic, it's solvent based not water based like the Tamiya acrylic paints.

[nmunn]

i used customs paints  on my kamtec shell..  let it dry 24hrs.. then allied fender mender and when brushing it on . it was pulling the paint off..

ahhhhahahaha 

 

why?

[terry.sc]

i used customs paints  on my kamtec

shell..  let it dry 24hrs.. then allied fender mender and when

brushing it on . it was pulling the paint off..

ahhhhahahaha 

 

why?

Custom Colour paint really needs leaving up to a week to dry out

properly before coating. Fender Mender has a solvent which will attack

paints that are not properly cured. Personally I would actually leave a

body painted in Custom Colour or parma Faskolor at least a week before

running it to make sure it is dry.

[nmunn]

THANKS MATE... so it will get very hard the paint then?

 

 WISH  they put that on the tin also i have allready put the white on the red .. will it dry ok.. also i left it for 24hrs the first coat..

then put the white on

[Neil G40]

 

Sorry you suffered that, Petrolhead - it's one of the worst things when you have done a good paintjob and something ruins it at the end. Something I suffered when I put some Fender Mender on my first Lexan shell and watched as it dissolved all of my hard work before my eyes.

I primered my Monster Beetle shell with some enamel primer (all I had to hand at the time), and top coated it with Tamiya paint. After some months, the Tamiya paint was still soft and I laid the shell on a soft cloth to protect it, ended up with an impression of the cloth in the paintwork []. It's finally dried now, but I'm going to have to strip and redo it. I'm also going to have to remove all of the LEDs and wiring first (64 of them). Since these disasters, I now always use the same manufacturer for primer and paint wherever possible.

I must be lucky having never had any trouble using fender mender, I did recommend it to somebody and it removed the paint he'd just put on, but I did a new shell before xmas with no trouble.  I think it helps if its been somewhere warm before applying it making it easier to spread.

[mud4fun]

I do all my hard plastic bodies using halfords automotive paints and I use halfords own clear lacquer to finish them. I use their automotive plastic primer first off though as a base coat on the bare plastic before top coats. The only problem I have ever suffered is that the lacquer can eat into the clear plastic windscreens and headlights on some shells making them opaque so it is bet to remove them first.