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Wild Dagger breaking up

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Has anybody experienced any breakages regarding the chassis and/or gearboxes? My son's Wild dagger has cracks everywhere which I keep repairing using spacers instead of the mounts which are all breaking off, with through bolts and nuts instead of screws on each side, which in turn bend with stress. The reason being that the Wild Dagger nose dives after taking any kind of jump hitting the front guard and transfering that to the gearbox mounts. Last Sunday it also broke the rear camber linkage mount (part of the rear gearbox)after a minor collision with another truck. I race my KBF together with my son and have much more harder crashes due to it being much faster with no damage whatsoever. The replacement parts are pretty cheap, about £25 for both gearboxes and chassis but it is such a hassle to replace that I would have to admit that the Wild Dagger isn't practical (or up to it) when it comes to bashing around a track with ramps. I am pretty disappointed about it since it is such a nice truck, and I am sure it wasn't designed to drive at a snails pace.

Regards

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With the stock motors, making the Wild Dagger do jumps is a no-no. I have a Dagger too, and I've had it for about a month. It's a great truck with oodles of torque and power, but and as durable as the truck is (I have had serious crashes with it and broken nothing) it simply is not fast enough to take jumps and the sheer impact of smashing nose-first into the ground is enough to break any truck! Really, the only way to prevent this is to install the optional 20-tooth pinion gear which will give more speed.However, if you have money, then buy some faster motors and an ESC that can cope, something like an LRP F1 Pro. Increased speed will stop the nose-diving hopefully. However, in my experience, it is a very tough truck.

Hope this helped

Regards

Oblivion (I know it's a cheesy name)

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Hi

It already has the 20T/21T optional pinnion gears and even if you have enough distance to pick up speed it will still nose dive, I have tried it. It simply is too balanced (front to rear) and relative to other trucks the front is always too heavy. The speeds that it would have to pick up to 'glide' over the ramps would have to be a little over the top and probably more than the WD could handle, as I feel the steering is a little sensitive, you'd have trouble keeping it in a straight line.

Regards

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Just had an idea - try shifting weight to the back somehow. Perhaps add plasticene or something to the rear, or something. that might stop the nose-diving and shouldn't affect speed much.

Oblivion

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I suggest you put some oil shocks on your Dagger the stock ones are **** [8)], and suggest the 50519 tamiya oil shocks with the "longest" setup. I had these also on my Dagger and they made a huge difference.

Hope it helped [;)], Jon

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I fully aggree with Thesis Oil shocks are the way to go for this one. I've bashed my Dagger around fairly hard and it hasn't broken anything (although I did lose a few screws). I ran it into cement barriers and over lots of insane jumps and no damage has been done except maybe a few scratches. I'd go with the oiled filled shocks might help reduce the impact on landing. As for doingg front enders well that is a signiture move of the Dagger there needs to be a way to put more weight in the back or something so that it is no so balanced front to back.

Troy

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I had a dagger for a while, bought it new and built it without the rubbish shock 'absorbers'

I used some older ones from the toolkit, it handled very well. Me and a mate would set up obstacle courses in his garden using pretty much anything and do time trials round it, taking it in turns. This was usually done towards the end of BBQ's and after drinking lots of beer etc. I didn't manage to break anything but lost a few of the screws that hold the front hubs in, sorted that with threadlock, I must admit to being quite cruel to that truck, I fitted E-maxx motors and speedo and 2 2400 race packs. Still couldn't break it.

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