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Posted

Got me a Gecko!

Started build at 18:57 on 26-10-03, as of 22:44 on 28-10-03 I've got the wheels on!

Started with a Gecko Chassis kit, a Bullhead from the countdown auctions, and a load of bits from Thundertech Racing (Purple bumpers, purple 'Eliminator' steering kit, purple adjustable motor mount and some black wheel wideners - don't do 'em in purple, and a couple of 9 tooth pinions)

By the end of evening 1, the shocks were back on the chassis (after reading the instructions and taking them off), the diffs were locked (truly) with 'quick steel' and the gearboxes were built, awaiting the Thundertech (TTR from here on) parts, as the motor mounts and pinions were in with all the other bits.

Evening 2, brought all the newly delivered TTR parts home and final assembled the gearboxes. Adjustable motor mounts allow the motors to slide toward/away from the spur gear, so allowing varying sizes of pinion. Got them all assembled, and started on the Eliminator steering.

This invovles mounting the steering knuckles on the 'wrong' side and facing the 'wrong' way too. Apparently it corrects an ackerman fault, I bought them cos I thought they looked cool[:I]

Got both ends fully eliminated, now for the chassis.

First problem - Gecko chassis mounts to lower (self drilled) holes in the 'E' parts (C hubs or something).

Trouble is, with the steering knuckles mounted 'back to front' the chassis links fouled on the steering assembly.

So, disregarding the instructions, I mounted the links in the upper holes on the 'E' parts - problem solved, tons of clearance between lower links and steering setup.

Second Problem - Putting the links in the upper holes screwed up the geometry for the whole front end - had a cow, went to bed.

Evening 3 - tonite

Brought home some custom top links I had made (15mm longer than stock) to correct geometry fault, all smiles, joy abounds.

Problem 3 - Because links are now above steering setup, full suspension travel causes lower links to foul steering again - Gecko's and Eliminators don't seem to be compatible!

Compressed suspension at least 20 times, fault didn't correct itself, so Eliminators had to go.

Rebuilt/bodged front suspension (for now, custom links to be made tomorrow)

At this point, we're upto about 20:30, so had a backache break.

Got back into it, with renewed enthusiasm, brought on by cold remedies and beer, and lack of food since lunchtime.

Slung the wheels spacers (3/4" each side[:D]) on, along with the wheels and kit tires, for the all important, obligatory Topless Articulation poses[;)]

Spent the last 20 minutes trying to remember how to 'thumbnail' pictures, so if they appear small, click on them[:P]

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Posted

Nice looking Gecko. You're right the TTR steering set up doesn't work with your chassis but you could go for the side mounted servo option which is easy to do or go back to RCGUY and get a Gecko steering set up.......costs about $55, but then you'll want some front end bumper protection.......another $55.

If this project is gonna be a runner then a cheap upgrade is to lose the plastic lower shock mounts in favour of alloy ones...the plastic ones break easy.....check out InetRC.com for the upgrade

Post some more pics when you're finished.............Good luck

Posted

Hey P S

I cobbled together a steering system, kinda blended between stock and rcguy, using TTR parts - mega mongrel [;)]

Just got to make a centre section between the ball jonts, and lifes cool.

Cheers for the Inet link, had heard options were available

Posted

nice one mate, lookin' good!!

I did wonder about suspension travel tho',didn't I??

if you decide to get rid of the eliminator on a permanent basis give me a shout, as I've got a project just started that could use it(and it would save the shipping time lol)

you'll have a lot of fun with the gecko, I know I do.it's virtually unstoppable over most terrain, and looks sooooo cooooool.

keep up the good work, and look forward to more pics

Posted

Hey W&G the suspension arms are just 1/4" diameter alu, tapped 6-32 up the ends.

The ball joints have long 'grub' screws in them, that just screw in the ends of the alu.

Gecko; I'm keeping most of the eliminator, but the steering links are redundant!

In the pic below (blagged from www.thundertechracing.com) the bits I got spare are the carbon fibre 's' pieces and the links to the steering hubs.

You'd need the aluminium plate to make it work, and possibly the bumper.

TTR sell 'em all sepeprate I think.

What I might do, is put some slightly longer lower links on (as the original top ones are now part of the steering) and use the bottom holes on the 'C' carriers.

Elim2.jpg

I still gotta fiddle with shock placement, as one side always rides back on maximum twist.

Posted

PLEASE dont say it's gonna be for show!!

I don't know if you have the time twinset, but you could probably sell a few sets of those arms. I think I'd be interested at the right price, the look great.

I made some last night but used a different method (I think yours is better) I got some M3 studding and slid some tight fitting brass tube over it and then slid some Ali tube (Soft but nice looking) over the whole thing. They seem quite rigid so far.

Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Twmaster

****, now I have to get busy and finish Clodia.


id="quote">id="quote">

Don't rush Mike, I still gotta do the lectrics[;)]

And the special bit[xx(]

And the body[;)]

Don't worry, it'll be a runner, that's why it's got bumpers!

W&G, let me know the lengths you need, got these rods done within an hour, it's stock diameter, just scotchbrited and tapped.

It's not my method, all credit goes to the original manufacturer (www.rcguy.com)

Still gonna tinker with its for a while, seen some nice 'customs' that have given me a few ideas.......

Dunno if anyone had a protractor around, but I must be close on to 80 degrees artic?

Posted
quote:Originally posted by TWINSET

Dunno if anyone had a protractor around, but I must be close on to 80 degrees artic?


id="quote">id="quote">

Shouldn't that be a thermometer? I know it was chilly last night, but I wouldn't say artic...

Posted
quote:W&G, let me know the lengths you need, got these rods done within an hour, it's stock diameter, just scotchbrited and tapped.


id="quote">id="quote">

I've measured the Jugg and reckon on 108mm for some links. Let me know how much etc.

Would it be possible to have them tapped to an M3 thread??

Keep up the good work!

Posted

Andy

If your interested in starting up a 'Cottage industry' in making up suspension & steering links, then I'm interested in a few sets as well. If you're interested give me a shout and I'll sort out the quantity and lengths etc.

Cheers

Chris

Posted

The more we get done at once, the cheaper it'll be for everyone.

For this job, they'll need to be fairly similar - 1/4" dia with a hole up the end, but the length isn'tt a problem.

Where it gets sticky, is doing custom jobs (1 offs), whereas this'll be a nice straightforward 'homer'[;)]

All I need is the overall length, and what sort of hole you need up the end - W&G needs M3 (3mm) , but Gecko, you may need an english thread for yours, as the New Era is an American job.

Easiest thing there is to send me a screw that fits, I can match it to ones we got at work - we still use tons of 'english' threads.

Chris - email me with the details, I'm on it!

Posted

Got the theory behind the lectrics sorted (I think[xx(]) but all me batteries are flat[:(]

Gimme an hour!

W&G - rods not a problem, just waiting on a price from the chap.

Posted

This working with engineers is getting to me[;)]

The link chassis don't use the 'anti-rotation' part, so the holes for it in the gearbox are redundant.

Also, because I got adjustable motor mounts, TTR supply a clear pinion cover to view gear mesh, made of what can only be descrided and 'transparent paper'[;)] It's slightly thinner than a decal, and held on by naff glue and two bolts. Needless to say, when the nuts are tightened, the 'decal' creases[:(!]

So, we gone from this[:(!]

12.JPG

To this[:D]

covert.jpg

Aesthetics is everything!

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