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Posted

Spent a few hours before chrimbo building and measuring up a TB-01 for a few mods - Now I got me a monster TB-01 :)

It's got a 23t motor, and 16/55 (pinion/spur) gearing. No idea what it runs like yet, forgot to bring a battery home [:(]

Not sure about the tires yets, may got for 1.9 rims with same tires as on my pre-runner.

Body TBA..................

Used kit shocks, but inverted shock tower for more ground clearance - gotta make alu shock mounts next!

It worked though, can get two stick packs under it, with at least 5mm of daylight between them and the chassis

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Posted

Those blue ally parts are gorgeous Andy - I hate to think how much they cost [xx(]

As for the wheel debate, can we see pics with both the Dawgs and the Blazing Star tyres to compare? I think the 2.2" wheels will look better (a bit more 'butch' [:)]) but it would be interesting to see them side by side.

Posted

The blue bits cost nothing (for four rear and three front) - apart from a bottle of good brandy and two Australian reds.

I got a quote from one shop, and they reckoned £90 each [xx(]

Good thing I got spares on the way!

I forgot to bring any hexes in today, so I'll take it all home (again) and get some 'wheel' pics tonite.

The Hawgs are about 3/4" taller than the others though.

The trouble with the 2.2"s is that they really need an Inferno type body (chassis hugger) and as yet, this hasn't been designed.

Two potential bodies just arrived, so we gonna be busy this weekend.

Posted

I know what you mean about the 'inferno type' body. With the 2.2's the chassis reminds me of that Pirate truck where they've put big wheels on the rallycross-type chassis.

Looking forward to seeing it come together... Have fun [:)]Cheers. David

Posted
quote:
Originally posted by fury_dice

With the 2.2's the chassis reminds me of that Pirate truck where they've put big wheels on the rallycross-type chassis.


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That's what I'm trying to avoid really, with the 2.2s, the only real option (for body) is a raised job, and I don't really like them.

Chassis then body, not 4" of gap in between[xx(]

Anyroad, rant over, had a play with some wheels - original tonka tires at top, then 1.9" rims with pre-runner etc. tires

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There's a fair difference in diameter, but even with the 1.9s I got 1 5/8 (40mm) space underneath :)

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Posted
quote:Originally posted by TWINSET
Originally posted by fury_dice

Anyroad, rant over, had a play with some wheels - original tonka tires at top, then 1.9" rims with pre-runner etc. tires


id="quote">id="quote">

Yep - yer right. The 1.9"/prerunner tyre combo gives a much better proportion IMHO. Maybe you'll show us your body next ...[;)][;)]

Posted

Now they're on there, I quite like them!

Opens up the body choice a little too.

Theo, not sure what short gearing is, it's a 16t pinion and a 55t spur, both kit stocks.

Tommorow is run day [:D]

Posted

Hi Andy, I think it suits the smaller wheels best and I agree with the concerns over fitting body. As I mentioned I fitted HPI super touring wheels with pin spikes or CML buggy wheels onto my thundershots. Remember that you have to allow clearance for the body at full sus travel and like the t'shots your TB01 will have increased wheel travel, not so much of a problem at the rear but fronts on lock are. I stuck with the Subaru shells as they will accept quite large amounts of material being removed from around the arches whilst still looking car like! I too don't like fresh air between frame and shell. Kepp up the good work. [:D] Ian.

Posted

The 1.9's are spot on!

Fitted an Atomik F-150 stadium truck body for now, no clearance issues at all [:D]

Wheels sides are about 5mm away from body at rear and up front, at full lock, there's about 10mm in front and behind

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Posted

Took it out for a couple of laps today, but the angle of the arms was too great, causing the shafts to rub on the drive cups.

Even off the floor the wheels wouldn't spin that freely.

So, had to put shock mount on the right way up, to raise the top of the shocks a bit (3/8" I suppose), and that made a helluva difference. Even 'up on blocks' the wheels spin freely, so all the friction's gone from there.

The only thing I really dislike about it is the amount of slop in the 'stock' steering linkages - holding one wheel, you can toe in/out the opposite one a good 5 degrees or more, and when it's running, it's got a bit of a wobble to it - Aluminum steering kit, methinks - anyone doing a rainbow10 soon?

It's not that apparent on the touring cars, as they got smaller wheels, so the effect is less noticeable

Apart from that, the thing goes quite well really [:D]

Gonna play with some motors, as it's not the longest jumper I seen, and it's quite a heavy car, so I reckon there's still room for a bit more speed.

Turning circle is similar to that of an oil tanker, but it skids a 180 quite well, so no biggie.

Posted

Hi Andy, the play in the steering is the reason I abandoned my TB01 chassis, even with the ali kit there is still some play but it will be much better. The TB01 is a heavy car, in fact it is the exact same weight as my Thundershot, approx 1450g depending on what ESC,radio, motor and battery used. I have had both chassis in a head to head and there is nothing between them in performance, however, the TB01 has a better bathtub design as it keeps more dirt out than the T'shot. The T'shot chassis will however accept an 8.4v pack which the TB01 can't.


You might want to try a Kyosho meyhem truck motor which will get over the tall gearing problem with its massive torque and should give great performance. [8D][:D] Cheers, Ian.
Posted

So what's the best options for a bit more speed?

It's got full bearings already [;)] and I thought the gears would sort it, but it still seems a bit of a slug

Posted

trow a 8.4v pack in it, give's that little extra.

and, a kick-in-the-door, hot engine :)

or, a bit crude, toss the 4x4 and let it run on real wheel only.

btw, does look good the car!

Stefan

Posted

Try the meyhem motor or a technigold. Torque is incredible and should pull your TB01 easily as I have a meyhem in my monster scorcher and that shifts even weighing 2100g. I have a technigold in one of my thundershots and coupled with 8.4v pack it pulls wheelies!!!!!! will also climb just about anything, I locked my rear diff too to get a little more traction. The t'shot is heavier at the back whereas the TB01 is more balanced so unlikely to get a wheelie but performace should be good. I couldn't get an 8.4v pack to fit in the TB01 though. Don't run 8.4v unless you want to go thru motors quickly, even the Technigold gets VERY hot after a few minutes and the meyhem can fry an egg after 10 minutes.......I don't mind cos' I love the thrill for those few minutes....if you have never run 8.4v before you'll be amazed! [8D][:D][:P]

Posted

mud4fun, correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe they were Thundershot shafts.

I wanted the longest possible, and Ian suggested 'em.

I tried them originally with Baja Champ arms (albeit with TB01 knuckles) and the shafts were too long for those arms, so that looked like a good sign[8D]

The only ones I have found since that are any longer are some HPI shafts (sphere diameter seems to be the limiting factor on others) so one day may go even wider!

quote:
Originally posted by mr_pushrod

Could always go for some TB Evo bits to lighten it up a bit.


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May try an alu plate chssis next, or carbon fibre one, but they kinda cancel out the benfits of going for a TB01 in the first place (the splashproofness - if that's a word[;)])

Although, having said that, the chassis tub doesn't weigh a whole lot, so I won't save a busting lot really.

Posted

Yep, they were thundershot driveshafts, glad to be of some use as they were some old ones of mine. The same shafts were used on loads of tamiya buggies, the t'shot, t'dragon family etc plus many others of the same era, bear hawk/falcon????. You can also get UJ driveshafts the same length.


As for weight saving I wouldn't bother too much, I also have a group C chassis which doesn't even have a gearbox and that still weighs in at 1250g fully loaded. Most of the weight is in the motor, battery and ESC.
Posted

Just toying with lightening the load [:D]

And in the options for the TB are a ball diff and a Front one-way - do I need either of them, and are they any lighter than the stock (steel) units?

I've come to the conclusion (aided by others) that I got a 27t motor in it, so a 20t is on the way, but are the diffs gonna make much of a saving?

Second one on the way [:D]


Got the ball diff (sweet), alu steering set, the one way and a pair of suspension mounts. Still having issues with the speed though, more to come on that!

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Well nice looking!id="red">

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So, added all this perfomance enhancing stuff, and what did I gain? Nothing! car weighed 20grams more with the hop-ups!


The original gearing (and big rubber) was too much for my Eco20 speedo, it seems to have packed up!

After extensive discussions with mud4fun (cheers again chap) it's got a borrowed Nosram Tomahawk speedo and a Team Orion Rush 17x2 motor in it, and seems to go quite well - Got a Technigold lined up, but it's in the Lunchbox at the minute.

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