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Posted

ok the less turns a motor has the faster it is and the higher the drain on the batteries (i.e the shorter the run time will be)

you can get a motor in a variety of winds i.e

11 single

11 double

11 triple etc

that means a 11 single has a single wire wrapped round the armature 11 times, whereas a 11 double has 2 wires wrapped round the armature 11 times etc. A motor with a single wind is normally a very punchy motor (quick acceleration good for buggies) whereas a motor with more turns like a quad(4 wires round armature) will be a very smooth motor (i.e good for touring cars)

Posted

that not always strictly true regarding the more turns more torque, i got a 12 double in my rough rider and it got so much torque, much more than a 17 double i had in it previously

Posted

so would n e motor work in my one? i have 3 speed control thing...

and what turn motor works best in a tt-01. i am just getting confused on what i should buy.. i dont wanna buy one that doesnt work in it

Posted

with manual speed controller dont recommend anything more than a silver can motor really (what you got with tt01)

First you need to ballrace the car, then get an electronic speed controller then consider a faster motor

Posted

i have the 540 motor that it came with.. but i gotta buy bearings and then i dont understand all the speed controller bit

Posted

right you have a mechanical speed controller that came with kit, to upgrade you need to look into buying a electronic speed control that can cope with the higher drain a faster motor will use.

Posted

Depends what motor you are going to upgrade to. I wouldn't recommend a 19 or 12 turn, as these are extremely fast, and need regular maintenance to keep them working, which if you are new to it all would be expensive and possibly time-consuming. If you invest about £40 in an electronic speed controller, it will handle 27 turn rebuildable stock motors like the P2K2. Makes such as LRP, Nosram spring to mind (Nosram Tomahawk, LRP Runner Plus are both about £40).

The rebuildable 27 turn stock motors run a lot faster than the stock motor supplied with the Tamiya cars, and will provide more torque too. They do require maintenance as mentioned above, brushes need to be changed and every now and then the motor should be dismantled and cleaned and skimmed. Most model shops can do this for you, charges vary from £5 to £10.

One other thing, if you are going to change the motor to a rebuildable stock one, I suggest that you also change the Tamiya connectors on the battery pack for Deans connectors. The race motors draw a lot more current, and this can melt the Tamiya connectors.

Posted

Hi with my TT01, i full ballraced it when I built it, and then put in an mtroniks Eco20 ESC from an older car which works great. I have heard some people complaining about mtroniks ESC but I have seen no problems with mine [:D] I then upgraded my motor to a p2k2 (a team paradigm) which is alot faster thn the standard 540. [:D]

Posted

Yeah you should really look at getting a new speed controlelr if you're wanting to upgrade your motor. Otherwise I think the mechanical speed controller you ahve at the mo could overheat with its resistor, when highr currents are going through it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry for dragging up an old topic lol but don't think this has been mentioned yet An MSC is drawing maximum power from the battery even if the car is barely moving, the rest is converted to heat by the big resistor - an ESC does the opposite and only draws the power needed so run times are better better esp if you do a lot of slow speed driving.

Also recomend the LRP range, using the Runner Reverse in TL-01B and for the last 3 years its been flawless, even survived the odd splash of water.

Motor wise have been cheating and useing the Team Orion Havok range, covers everything from 27T to around 11T. Only downside is you cant rebuild them so you'r limited to changing the springs and brushes. When the comm is shot its a case of binning the whole lot but for a motor costing £12 cant really complain, lol!

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