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Posted

Got a TL01 chassis, Ball raced, oil damped, no limit p-sung ESC other than that the car is standard.

I run it on a tarmac surface at my local club, exceleration is fine (but could be better) but I'm not too impressed with the top end.

At the moment I'm just having fun with it, with a view to racing later on.

Do you think I should go for a better 27turn motor or go down as far as 19/20turn if I want better allround performance.

Can anyone suggest motors I should consider?

thx

Posted

If you have a no limit speedo you can go as low as you like...even down to 6 turn [xx(] It really depends if you prefer a longer running time or speed. M troniks do cheapy motors for about £12, in all different sizes.

19 turn apparantly has a large following at the moment, it would be much faster than your 27turn but still controllable, and you would be able to compete in the 19 turn races [:)]

this is a list from goldstar (to give you an idea of how cheap some of the motors can be- brake it bin it)

Vision Modified Motors - Good quality & reliable - pictured above. These motors are non-strippable, however look at the prices!

http://www.goldstarstockists.com/tamiyaparts/tpx/motors.htm

MT27x1

Mtroniks Vision Modified 27x1

£12.99

MT23x1

Mtroniks Vision Modified 23x1

£12.99

MT21x2

Mtroniks Vision Modified 21x2

£12.99

MT19x2

Mtroniks Vision Modified 19x2 Needs Ballrace Set In Car

£12.99

MT17x2

Mtroniks Vision Modified 17x2 Needs Ballrace Set In Car

£12.99

MT15x2

Mtroniks Vision Modified 15x2 Rec. Only for BELT DRIVE cars

£12.99

MT13x2

Mtroniks Vision Modified 13x2 Rec. Only for BELT DRIVE cars

£12.99

MT11x2

Mtroniks Vision Modified 11x2 Rec. Only for BELT DRIVE cars

£12.99

Hope this helps

Mike

Posted

Anyone an idea why are some stated for beltdrive only[?]

Too few torque, overheating to overcome the friction of the gears [;)]

Sounds dodgy to me

Posted

Thanks for the advise Gates.

Your right at those prices, you can't go much wrong.

However one other thing...

Would you (or anyone else) explaine what the x1,x2 means?

Thanks again

Posted

Buy cheap, buy twice. I've seen enough people have trouble with those Mtroniks motors to recommend you don't buy one.

x1 x2 etc is the wind of the motor - the number of wires wound around the armature - singles and double (x1/x2) are punchier, triples and quads (x3/x4) are smoother.

Posted

Just to clarify sosidges post the x1 etc denotes the number of wires that are wound round the armature. THe first number i.e 27 etc is the winds therefore a 19x2 is 2 wires wrapped 19 times round armature, a 13x4 is a 4 wires wrapped round the armature 13 times.

The less winds then the faster the motor. a single wire is punchier(there fore better for buggies) than 4 wires which delivers the power smoother (therefore better for tourers)

Posted

Thanks for the tip Sosidge.

Yes I agree buying cheap is a false economy ultimately.

But they'd probably be fine for just hacking round a track Sunday afternoon.

When I decide to do it a bit more seriously, then I'll splash out on a decent robust motor.

Posted

To add more confusion about electric motor....

The lower the turn (the number of time the wire wrap around the armature) the greater the rpm, top end.

The lower the wind (the number of strands of wire used to wrap around the armature) the greater the torque, acceleration.

You didn't mentioned the type of track you run your RC. If you have a fast track usually long straight your typical oval track you want a lower turn motor to get the top end, but if your track is a tight track, lots of turns and short straight you want a low wind motor to power your RC out quickly where the top end is not that important.

I heard that for touring car 14 turn 4 wind motor is a good overall motor.

On the other head instead of spending big buck on motor try changing your gear ratio by using a larger or small pinion gear...think of a 10spd bike... the larger the pinion gear,like a 21 or 22 teeth gear you have more top end speed, a smaller pinion gear like 16 teeth gear you have more acceleration.

Posted

Thanks Tam,

The track is the one at Tolworth:

http://' target="_blank">http://www.trccc.com/

Id say it was more Technical than anything but the bummer is it has this F***ing long straight the length of the track so motor/gear setup is a bit of juggling act.

Don't think I'll go down as far as 14 turn just yet or I'll just end up in car park or the cricket green.

But every bit of advise you guys are giving me is a great help.

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