esc's that come in re-release's

[topforcein]

OK i have 3 of these speed controller's that come with the re-release kits.

know does anyone know what's the hottest motor that can be put onto them. "ie in turns"

many thanks for any help provided

[Tipsy]

There are a few threads I think already on these ESC's.  27T stock motor(and tamiya sport tuned) are the recommended limits, although some have used I think 23T and work fine. If it doesn't like it it just shuts down. I dont think it blows it

[jacolouw]

Defenitely only the 540 motors and the 540 sport tuned.  Ive tried a Stinger motor (like in the Traxxas stampede) and it fried the esc, Not only a shutdown but a smoker!!!

Jakes

[Gooner]

Got a 19t running with mine.  No problems.

[theshopkeeper]

I think general consensus on these is that they vary widely in tolerance - this is why Tamiya only guarantee them to work with the GT Tune/Sport Tune and Silver Can.

I've seen an 13x2 running on one no problem.  Equally, I've seen a melted one that had a 23x2 on it.  Both in the same type of car too.

[SJoerD]

Are you sure the one running with the 13t is EXACTLY the same model as the one supplied in kits? As I believe there are Tamiya ESC's avaliable seperately that handle around 13t motors (or even 'no limit'), and these are definately not the ones in the new kits...

I think it also depends on the gearing and the use of the motor. On a very high-geared car (big pinion, small spur, big tires) the ESC will have increased load, or in a situation where full current on the motor but hardly rotates, or more strain due to uneven terrain etc., all of which can cause sudden peaks in current drain.

[theshopkeeper]

Yes, exactly the same ESC, both of them in Fighter Buggies.  Tamiya do make the Volac ES ESC which can take an 11x2 but it looks completely different.

[DJTheo]

They also make the TEU-302BK as a higher entry ESC, which can take more current then the TEU-101.

Fighter buggy is like all Hornet based cars with small wheels a gentle load to a ESC as they are light and have not much traction, probably the one with 13T was also used only as low grip surfaces and maybe had poor connectors and batteries (high resistance => lower current) as no other way the TEU-101 would survive a 13T motor.

Cheers

[steviedee]

i kinda took a teu-101 out with a super stock T too, lol bzzzzz bang....not good ;o) i'll live and learn lol

[topforcein]

the reason i asked is cause i want to put one of these ones into my yokomo drift car. but i am running a lrp black e motor in there at the moment but i can't remember the turn of it as i have had it some time and have lost the details on it. and i was just wondering if it would be ok on one of the esc's

[amigamad]

I managed to run an lrp touring car special  18 turn 27,000rpm  motor ok, but it was only in the house in my m02L beetle and there was a lot of wheelspin .this now runs a novak 14 turn limit esc.You cant expect much from something that come with a kit .

[Glitch]

I wouldnt recommend it - the sustained high revs of drift tends to put plenty of load on ESC's - you generally need ESC's rated a couple of turns better than the motor you use...

[theshopkeeper]

They also make the TEU-302BK as a higher entry ESC, which can take more current then the TEU-101.

Fighter buggy is like all Hornet based cars with small wheels a gentle load to a ESC as they are light and have not much traction, probably the one with 13T was also used only as low grip surfaces and maybe had poor connectors and batteries (high resistance => lower current) as no other way the TEU-101 would survive a 13T motor.

Cheers

Not that I'd noticed, it was definitely a 13x2 motor and was running one of our own 3300 batteries which are always good output. The point is that these ESCs are nothing like all the same - probabaly not due to Tamiya's own specification but further up the line - perhaps there was a batch made with "graded down" components (e.g. like when you get a 3.0ghz CPU that's rated only as a 2.2 because it fails some test, but for 99% of the time can be run at 3.0 without a problem).  I don't know, can only report what I've seen.

However, I would say stick to what Tamiya recommends - only the two recommended upgrade motors on this ESC - I'm just saying that on-your-own-head-be-it you might well get away with something much more leery, or you might end up with a pool of melted plastic.

[DJTheo]

I wouldnt recommend it - the sustained high revs of drift tends to put plenty of load on ESC's - you generally need ESC's rated a couple of turns better than the motor you use...

Sorry but thats wrong, a DC motor consumes the more current the slower it rotates, at start current (and also torque) is max, at max RPM current is minimal (but also torque), pretty opposite to a combustion engine. Sounds weird but it is like that. Also drifters have lower load due to their low traction tires, so the TEU-101 can opperate there also a 23T, like I do on my TT01D drifter (you can check my showroom and videos)

Cheers

[Glitch]

Hmm, yeah... i figured as soon as i hit the post button that i would get shot down in flames. Thanks for being polite....

I understand so little about electronics.. so should have best kept my mouth shut..

So can i turn it into a question.. In the case of an ESC, does the heat generated remain constant at different revs? Or during throttle changes? My experience is that a motor/ESC combination which is fine for grip racing (eg a Tamiya 302 with a Tamiya TZ super stock) tends to not be great for drift: the thermal cutout activates regularly. Any explanations?

[topforcein]

first off great drift videos.  so if i put this certain motor on one of these esc's it will fry one. i also have a m-tronics esc i brought about 4 years back and haven't really used it tbh. but i don't want to use it as it don't have reverse. i think the best bet is to take the motor to my lhs and ask them what turn it is then i go from there. also the tyres that your using look like they have more grip than the ones that come in the yokomo drift kits. i did buy the hpi d1 tyres buy they have to much grip and have been banished to the back of my spares box.

[DJTheo]

Hmm, yeah... i figured as soon as i hit the post button that i would get shot down in flames. Thanks for being polite....

I understand so little about electronics.. so should have best kept my mouth shut..

So can i turn it into a question.. In the case of an ESC, does the heat generated remain constant at different revs? Or during throttle changes? My experience is that a motor/ESC combination which is fine for grip racing (eg a Tamiya 302 with a Tamiya TZ super stock) tends to not be great for drift: the thermal cutout activates regularly. Any explanations?

Heat depends on current flowing, current is proportional to load and opposite to RPM. So maximum heat is when you accelerate from stop or drive up slopes or on grass. That it cut outs on drift, can be due to several reasons, different gearing, lower cooling as at drifting speeds are lower and more often braking and accelerating while speed racing is smoother, faster and has less speed changes.

Cheers