TWINSET 1793 Posted January 20, 2006 Not quite as tidy as the ones I get turned, but great for real bashers or prototyping First off, the hardware (UK sourced);Pipe cutter; http://www.screwfix.com/p/tube-cutter-3-28mm/49428 M4 nuts http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...13&ts=03913Taps http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/drills_taps_&_dies.htm6mm x 4mm thru Alu tubing and M4 steel studding from B&Q (about 2 quid a metre I think for each)Ball-ends big enough to take studdingTools;Drill (not critical, just makes life easier)Decent side cuttersVernier/Set of calipers An allen key or something to fit thru the ball in the ball end2 Tamiya tools or a couple of spanners etc to fit nutsStella Ok, the fun bitThe pipe cutterDecide/measure length of link (remember to allow for 2 nuts in overall length)Then, lock vernier in place so jaws won't moveHook one jaw over the end of tubing, and use point of far end to scratch a line on the tube wall - Doesn't need to go thru, just be visible Use mark for setting cutter in right place.Tighten up cutter and rotate tube to start cutting - You may have to re-tighten cutter 4 or 5 times to cut all the way thruFor a bit quicker turnaround, use the drill to do the turning SLOWLY) Ok, tube is cut to length.Next, thread 3 nuts onto the studding Use the 2 nuts nearest the end to reflect tubing length, remembering to leave enough sticking out to go into ball-endThe third one (far right) is to cut up to - between nuts 2 and 3Cut between nuts 2 and 3. These side cutters will cut thru in one go, but you may have to just bite into studding, rotate it 90 degrees, then bite again, depending on the cutters. You'll end up with this;Cutting the studding wrecks the thread, so now you need to unthread the nut from the cut end to re-form the thread.If need be, take the other nut off of that end too, just to make sure thread is good.Then (and this is the PITA bit) thread one nut back on the cut bit and down to the other end .This is just to make sure you CAN get the nut back on!Now, remember the third nut? That is to reform the thread on the offcut - in case you need to make more than one link See, mashed gooood!Ok, so with a nut on one end, slide the tube over the studding, and put the 2nd nut on the end, then tighten them upTap the ball ends (M4 in this case) - GO SLOW WITH THE DRILL!!Use the allen key to help stop the ball-end spinning in your fingers Thread the ball-end on (using allen key again and a Tamiya tool to turn link)Ball-end on the other end and vwaaaallaaaaaYou can also use tubing for making travel limiters for shocks - Limits articulation to stop your tires rubbing the bodyTake another sip of Stella and receive admiration from the laydeez 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hillman666 2 Posted January 20, 2006 Great 'How To' guide Andy! I have some links that I did like that. Although not quite as professional as yours! I had to use a junior hacksaw to cut my tube! lol! Think I will go and invest in one of those pipe cutters! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 20, 2006 For £3 a pop you'd be mad not to. I've done maybe 16-20 links with it, and it still works great. Only tightening it a bit between passes gets a real neat cut - I don't bother filing it or anything (too idle []) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 0 Posted January 20, 2006 Nice one Andy - just what TC's all about *Got put in my bookmarks * Do you need to use calipers or can you use a ruler and stanley knife to make the marking, as I'd like to make some of these, but don't want to spend £30 on some calipers - kinda deadens the point of DIY links... Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 20, 2006 You can use anything you like fella, as long as the measurement is easily repeatable - Locking calipers just make it dead easy. If you slide the tubing over the studding and up against the nut, before you cut it, you'll have a decent vertical edge (the nut) to butt the end of the ruler up against, to take your measurements from Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BiggusDitchus 38 Posted January 20, 2006 Yup great how to, already to try a set myself now, been a great help for this **** project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin71RS 1 Posted January 20, 2006 This is how I do mine... only I saw the tube and file them. (even file a little chamfer on the ends of the threads end tubes) I do not use the nuts on the thread, I just screw the ball-ends on. You do not see a difference between a turned one and a home fabbed one. Does take some work though. (great write-up!) Martin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeT 0 Posted January 24, 2006 Excuse my ignorance, but where did you get the threaded rod? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 24, 2006 Excuse my ignorance, but where did you get the threaded rod? B&Q chap, the M4 stuff fits nicely inside the 6mm tube. They keep it altogether usually, in a stand that holds the material vertically. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cortina2003 0 Posted January 24, 2006 any good hardware supplier or b&q, or if you look online type in threaded bar! mine cost me for 2m only £3 hope it helps! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeT 0 Posted January 25, 2006 Ah, Sorry Andy/Nic, Didn't realise that threaded rod was called studding.. Andy, what ball ends did you use, sorry for all the questions Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 26, 2006 I use Dubro ones, from Thundertech/Tower They're designed around 6-UNC or M4 threaded rod Some Traxxas ones will take an M4 thread too I believe, but not sure which ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BiggusDitchus 38 Posted January 26, 2006 I have used standard traxxas ball ends but they not for M4, took a bit of drilling and stretching, wouldnt recommend them, go for ones Andy suggested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petercabrio 0 Posted January 27, 2006 this needs putting in the how to section, definately Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jozza 1 Posted January 27, 2006 this needs putting in the how to section, definately I agree, it's a superb guide, would go really well in the howtos Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twintt 0 Posted January 28, 2006 nice guide but you are wrong about this [qoute]Cutting the studding wrecks the thread[/qoute] it dose'nt, cutting the 'stubbing' with a hack saw is far better then cutting it with a pair of plyers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 28, 2006 nice guide but you are wrong about this;Cutting the studding wrecks the thread Not the way I do it The guide was really a 'basic tools will get you by' (apart from the digital vernier) Lots of things would do the job better (lathes, hacksaws, vices, M4 dies etc.) but I didn't have them to hand. It's no disadvantage to cut the studding with pliers, and a lot quicker and less effort than hacksawing [] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jozza 1 Posted January 28, 2006 You can also pick up some fairly cheap bolt cutters from DIY stores; I prefer those to pliers as I find using the cutters on pliers for bolts will eventually make the pliers go sloppy. As Twinset says, as long as you cut the bolt with a nut on, and then undo the nut, the minor damage to the thread will be fixed by undoing the nut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 29, 2006 Just picked some more material up, prices were; M4 Studding, £0.78/metre 6mm Alu, £2.06/metre The alu tube can also be bought raw (un-anodized) which cost £1.46 and would polish up real easy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeT 0 Posted January 29, 2006 Where from Andy? I got my Chassis, it's great, thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted January 30, 2006 B&Q chap, but most of the big stores stock the same stuff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeT 0 Posted February 5, 2006 Alright lads, Shop didnt have M4 so i got some M3 stuff Just gotta make some links nar Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiya King 1 Posted February 8, 2006 Wow! That is great info. So could I make links for a stock Clod, or does it need to be an after market chassis to have aftermarket links????? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sammy 0 Posted March 11, 2006 Hi Guys, Got my TLT-1 in the post (NIB)! Would M3 be more suitable for TLT sized crawlers, and also where can you get M3 ballends...? UK? Final question: Do you need plastic ballends to go over the balls, or do you need ballends with metal balls in them, ready to be screwed to the chassis? Cheers guys Sam Edit: I've done some reading up, and want to use M4 rod, with 6mm tubing (as in Twinset's first post) However, I don't want to buy DuBro ends, as you have to get from the US, so i'm going to buy Traxxas ones from Modelsport. Now, next thing, are the Traxxas ends: a) Suitable for M4 rod Already tapped Let me know, as this affect what I buy at B&Q later today! Cheers Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites