Which motor is Better?

[technics100]

Hi

I have just bought a TLT and am in the process of making a crawler.  I have the standard stock motor and also a Super stock type T.  I know the Type T is quicker, but it produces more torque, so I was wondering if its better. motor specs below.  or does anyone know where to get 55 turn motors in the UK

Mabushi 540

Usable voltage: 7,2V

Torque at best efficiency: 194g-cm

R.P.M. at best efficiency: 15.080 rpm (7,2V)

Current drain at best efficiency: 5,9A

Best efficiency: 69% (7,2V)

Super stock type T

Usable voltage: 7,2 - 8,4V

Torque at best efficiency: 230g-cm

R.P.M. at no load: 27.000rpm (7,2V)

R.P.M. at best efficiency: 22.500rpm (7,2V)

Current drain at best efficiency: 11,5A (7,2V)

Best efficiency: 75% (7,2V)

Turns: 23 single

[MikeT]

The Super Stock has a hiugher torque at maximum efficiency, but also has a higher RPM..

 

Out of them two, i'd use the Silver Can, but there are alot better crawler motors out there:

55t Lathe Motor:

Basically,

Anything here and your sorted:

Glad i can help

[technics100]

Is there anywhere in the UK that does these motors?

[terry.sc]

Integy Lathe Motors are imported by Modeltech

www.modeltech.co.uk Price is £21.95. Not got any in stock at

the moment though, but listed as coming in the next shipment.

[TWINSET]

LRP Truck Puller II is a nice motor too;

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=22349

 

Not a big techie on motors, but Biggus recommended it, so it must be good - I fitted one in my new TLT and nothing caught fire yet!

Comes with spare capacitors and some stickers.

 

[Flerbizky]

The Super Stock has a hiugher torque at maximum efficiency, but also has a higher RPM..

 

Out of them two, i'd use the Silver Can, but there are alot better crawler motors out there:

55t Lathe Motor:

I was just wondering - Can these motors be reversed for use in a Clod Crawler conversion ?...

Cheers,

Steff

[mud4fun]

To be honest, I run a dirt cheap cordless drill motor in my own crawler. I simply bought a cheap B&Q/Homebase/Wickes cordless drill which are usually sold for about £15-20. I got mine at B&Q and only paid £12. The motors in these are actually 550 sized rather than 540 so they are slightly longer which was fine in my crawler. They are very torquey motors and most come with a torque ring (a metal ring that slides around the outside of the motor can. I've been running several of these motors for a couple of years now with no problems. The other benefit is that they draw tiny amounts of current so you get very long runtimes. My crawler will get an hour runtime on a 2000NiCD pack at constant crawling use and only the other day we achieved 2.5 hours run time on a single 2000 pack when my daughter was playing with it gently in the garden. I personally wouldn't bother paying high prices for 'fancy' looking motors for use in a crawler as thye don't generate any more torque than these cordless drill motors unless you go for a lathe motor.

 

For the price of a good lathe motor you can get a cheap 550 drill motor AND buy a graupner geared reduction unit as well which together with the motor will produce far low gearing and better overall crawling ability than a truck running a lathe motor but no reduction unit.

Please note that the above combination produces a very slow vehicle so don't go this route if you are after speed but then a crawler is NOT built for speed and high speeds don't make a good crawler!!!

 

[technics100]

Does it matter what voltage the drills are?  I have a 14.4 and an 18 volt in the house...will these work ok?

 

cheers

[mud4fun]

My motor came from a 14.4v cordless drill. If you already have one that is in reasonable condition (and you don't need it for anything!) then it is simple to take them apart. Usually the case is only held together by a few screws and takes just a few minutes to open up so that you can see if the motor inside is going to be suitable for you.

You'll find most cordless drill motors work over quite a wide range of voltages, my mabuchi RS550 works with 7.2v - 14.4v!! I normally run it with 8.4v or 9.6v NiCD stick packs as these give that little extra 'punch' over the 7.2v packs.

 

Just be careful trying to remove the pinion on it which is usually a push fit design and you may damage the motor trying to pull it off. I have a puller designed specifically for removing them but you shouldn't have too many problems as long as you are careful. If the pinion is a push fit then the motor shaft may not have a little 'flat' on it for the grub screw to locate so you'll need to grind or file a little flat on the motor shaft so that your normal Tamiya pinion can be screwed on properly. Only takes me a second with a dremel!!

[Flerbizky]

My motor came from a 14.4v cordless drill. If you already have one that is in reasonable condition (and you don't need it for anything!) then it is simple to take them apart. Usually the case is only held together by a few screws and takes just a few minutes to open up so that you can see if the motor inside is going to be suitable for you.

You'll find most cordless drill motors work over quite a wide range of voltages, my mabuchi RS550 works with 7.2v - 14.4v!! I normally run it with 8.4v or 9.6v NiCD stick packs as these give that little extra 'punch' over the 7.2v packs.

 

Just be careful trying to remove the pinion on it which is usually a push fit design and you may damage the motor trying to pull it off. I have a puller designed specifically for removing them but you shouldn't have too many problems as long as you are careful. If the pinion is a push fit then the motor shaft may not have a little 'flat' on it for the grub screw to locate so you'll need to grind or file a little flat on the motor shaft so that your normal Tamiya pinion can be screwed on properly. Only takes me a second with a dremel!!

That does indeed sound like quite a cunning plan. Is it safe to assume that the motors from the drills are timed at 0 degrees so you can just reverse the power to get a set for a Clod Crawler ?..

Heck.. Might as well buy 3 cheap drills - then you get cheap motors for a crawler, a cheap power drill and 2 spare sets of gear as that's always the weak point in the crappy drills...

Steff.. - Who has a Pro series Bosch 14.4v working as new on it's 5th year. Not a good excuse to start buying cheap drills :-)

[Matt2000]

i'd swear by my truck puller 2. it has buckets of torque, and has survived everything i put it through.

[Sirus56]

would this be any good as there dirt cheap

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/deta...bcatname=Motors

 

Robert

[MikeT]

16k RPM seems a bit high, but at that price you can't complain!

Grab one and let us all know!

[technics100]

Well, I guess I need a new drill.  I dismantled my 14.4v cordless drill.  It was perfectly good but only cost £9 in B&Q.  Have installed it in the TLT and it seems a good job..plenty of grunt and batteries last for ages...seems all good, just need another drill.  Slightly longer than a standard motor, but has no issues fitting in the TLT chassis..

[Tamiya King]

For a crawler, you want low RPM and High Torq. A lot of people use Lathe motors for the 1/10th, but since this takes a full size motor, I would use the same. They are like 50+ turn motors.