Mtroniks ESC problems

[Tinno]

I have a problem, and not with just one of these.

I bought these as they are 100% waterproof and this is important to me. However, I have a Mad bull, with a 23 turn Team orion motor running with an Mtroniks eco 20 ESC and when going full throttle the thing cuts out. the motor has the capacitors fitted, its rated within the ESCs tolerances. I found this puzzling, and frustrating, but I could live with it.

I've just bought another Mtroniks setup. The Viper RV11 (11turn limit) and am running a 17x2 Mtroniks BigLix motor, and this is exhibiting the same symptoms, only more severe. Again, the motor is rated well within the tolerances of the ESC, and has the capacitors fitted.

I have tried with 1800Mah batteries, up to 3650Mah batteries, and the signs are the same.

Am I doing something wrong?[:$] It's really getting to me[:@]

any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated

[twisty]

Water in the RX ?

[Tinno]

The rv11 and blig lix, + the Rx have never been outside in this setup.

The eco20 and team orion have been un in stacks of water, but the rx had been waterproofed (balloon + silicone sealant) but would water in the rx explain why everything works except when under full power

[Alfaman]

I found the same thing yesterday evening while messing with my TL01.  I have the Viper Eco 20 running with the standard issue motor and this too would run for a few seconds on full throttle and then cut out, both LED's flashed for a few seconds and then it ran again, only to cut out soon after.  I put it down to a running-out battery, or maybe I have it mounted too close to the receiver ? It would be interesting to hear if anyone has some more fault-finding hints, as it has worked without problems for about 4 hours in total since I installed it.

[theshopkeeper]

Assuming you're fully bearinged up it shouldn't happen on a Mad Bull.  Have you tried phoning Mtroniks for advice?  They're usually very helpful - esp as the motor and esc are their own brands.

[Tinno]

Assuming you're fully bearinged up it shouldn't happen on a Mad Bull.  Have you tried phoning Mtroniks for advice?  They're usually very helpful - esp as the motor and esc are their own brands.

Hi Neil,

Mtroniks directly were my next port of call.[]  But I don't like this type of thing getting the better of me[:@]

I have now put my team orion on the RV11 so that the motor is not even close to the rating.

the problem is less severe, but does still exist.

I made sure that I had a fully charged 3650Mah battery installed when testing and the same problem happened.  It is almost as if the motor tries to draw the current down, and the failsafe kicks in.

Previously, I had tried with and without a battery pack attached to the RX, but maybe I'll try this again. I am wondering if I have cabled it up wrong (revered the cable into the RX from the ESC) but I did try it the other way round and just got servo twitching.

Both cars have full ball racing.  I have not stripped the gearbox(es) down on the Bonzer yet ( I may do this tonight)

 

 

[Tinno]

Just a quick update,

I have emailed Mtroniks, so I'll see what sort of response I get from them.

I'll post my findings, good or bad on this.

Thanks all

[Tinno]

Quick update. 

I really thought I'd found the problem yesterday.  I thought I'd tracked it down to an "Iffy channel 2" on my radio gear.

To prove this, I flipped over the channels, and it really did appear to cure the problem (but then, up adn down was left and right, and vice versa.

so, I took apart the TC, amd swapped the sticks over.

This really did appear to work (inside) but once I'd sorted out the trim levels I took it out side for a test run.

 

and got EXACTLY the SAME THING.  [:'(][:@] You can potle about with about 3mm of forward throttle, and ease it up to about 50% full throttle, but any fast movement of the throttle, and thats it!, failsafe kicks in.

(/ looks for a smiley or a gif of a hammer bashing a small car)

I'm up for a challenge as much as the next chap and I do enjoy logic problems, and fixing things but this is getting to me now.

 

[theshopkeeper]

Remembered this morning, have had exactly the same problem twice before.

One time it was a high spec controller where you could set the top point of the throttle to a percentage - the percentage at anything other than 100% caused the ESC to trip.  Or you could set acceleration curves and it didn't like anything other than a linear one.  Can't remember which problem it was but it was one of them.

The other time it was just a iffy transmitter.  Solved it very simply - when setting the full speed position, push the trim up slightly, then pull it back down to the middle setting as you pass neutral to enter reverse.  Net effect - ESC stores 100% position, but stick will only then take you to about 97% - stopping the tripping.  Not sure why/where/how on this but it did work.

[Tinno]

Thanks Neil, good advice, I'll test it out tonight (I've just put my cars away now and come in cos it's bloomin freezing out there now.

 

[DCM71]

I would agree, radio is at fault, and it isn't the potentiometer on the

stick, it is the setup of the range on the board inside the radio.

One option, when resetting the ESC, juswt don't give it full throttle on the stick, give it like 90% or get another transmitter.

[Tinno]

Thanks for the advice, Do you think it's the TX, or the RX? Would getting a new TX do the job perhaps?

I have a CPR unit on 27mhz, but thats not capable of taking my hotter motors. The RX in my Mad bull is waterproofed and sealed up pretty tight (waterproofed the entire tub, a top to the tub may of firm plastic, and the ESC on top, all sealed with silicone sealant, so I'm loathed to crack it open and have to redo all of it again.

If it's the RX unit, then I'll see what I can pick up on ebay in the way of a new RX unit, but I don't want to throw good money after bad.

I currently have 2x 27mhz TX's (all on the same crystal sets) and one 40mhz set (just got from ebay)

It is the 40mhz set I'm trying to use and I'll not rule out the radio gear at this time.

I'll see what Mtroniks says on Monday, and do some further testing Monday night.

[Alfaman]

Received an email from Mtroniks suggesting it is the thermal shutdown kicking in - Tinno, is your ESC getting hot before it shuts down because mine doesn't seem to be (it doesn't run long enough to get too hot!!)

[Tinno]

Hi Alfaman,

This happens not matter what the thermal state of the unit.

Straight from cold, the problem exists.

I have had some great communication from Mtroniks.  really prompt customer service.

They indicated that it may be the connection between the ESC and battery.  I have around 5 batteries and all exhibit the same issues, so the problem is potentially with the tamiya conenctor on the ESC.

However, if I snip this off and change to deans ultra connectors (or a new tamiya connector) this would null the waranty.  I expained this to them, and they have granted a dispensation for me to try this as a course of remedial action. so if a return is required, as long as I enclose a copy of the email, they will still honour the warantee.

Great service.!!  and a logical solution to aid in resolving the problem.

I am also going to borrow over the next few days, some proven radio gear from a friend (known working TX and RX )to prove this avenue as well.

I'll keep you all posted.

[theshopkeeper]

However, if I snip this off and change to deans ultra connectors (or a new tamiya connector) this would null the waranty.  I expained this to them, and they have granted a dispensation for me to try this as a course of remedial action. so if a return is required, as long as I enclose a copy of the email, they will still honour the warantee.

[*-)] Don't think it does invalidate the warranty - after all some of their ESCs come without the wires fitted, and I've sent back ones which have had deans fitted and removed - never told me I couldn't... it's such a common mod.

[Tinno]

if the link  works, then it should show the footer on the mtroniks guide.

I have had a copy of this in my back poket for the last week, just in case, I haven't read it enough I i've missed something [] for the 1563rd time of reading.

I think that it's only there to make sure that you haven't done something really silly with the connectors, like snip em off and hard wire a car battery or something.

http://www.tcphotos.com/getuserimage.asp?t...006214231_1.jpg

or

[r6stu]

youve linked to a local file on your pc

[Tinno]

youve linked to a local file on your pc

I'm following the instructions (badly) in this thread

http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/148101.aspx

 

[mud4fun]

I have had similar problems with several of my ESC's but I'm not sure it is the same problem as yours.

I found that the ESC would cut out and reset itself as though overheated during even gentle runs within a minute or so of driving on a cold motor. It turned out that my stock Tamiya battery connectors were at fault. They are pretty rubbish to begin with but after alot of use they'd worn and corroded causing poor connection to the battery. Funny thing was that it worked fine when the car was held in the air or the ESC was tested on the workbench.

In the end I replaced ALL my battery connectors, throwing the awful Tamiya connectors in the bin and investing in high quality solid brass ones. I had to solder all these onto my battery packs and ESC's which took a whole saturday afternoon but once completed the ESC's haven't cut out since, the battery packs give longer runtimes, they disharge and charge better and seem to hold a higher charge. The battery wires also now remain cool even after a long run whereas they were getting hot before with even mild motors.

Probably not the same problem but it may be worth checking that your battery and motor connections are good, firm and clean. Any sign of corrosion or dirt and you may suffer problems. In my case I suspect that as the car bounced over the ground the connectors were wiggling enough to cause a momentary loss of power or spark which knocked the ESC out.

I would now recommend that Tamiya battery connectors should be scrapped as soon as you buy the vehicle!!

[Tinno]

this give me a warm gooey feeling that I may be heading in the  right direction.

I am not alone..!!

It's a bit late tonight (although I'm tempted) but tomorrow, I'll start snipping and soldering like a banshee.

I think I'll have a little wiggle on the cables tonight and see if I get any improvement.

 

[Tinno]

Well the Law of Sod has struck, and has firmly mooned me whilst beating me senseless.[:'(]

No sooner do I get confirmation from the manufacturer that I can put my own ends on the ESC, than I blow my soldering iron.[:@]

So now I have to go and buy a decent one. any recommendations.

[mr_pushrod]

I''d go for an 80W Weller iron. It'll do pretty much anything R/C related (connectors, cells, motors etc) and is good quality for about £25.