Chassis and ESC suggestions for a 10x3 motor

[brisbaneracer]

Hey ppl, i have a fantom 10x3 factory modified motor, i want to purchase a chassis that has good gear ratios and balance for maximum on road speed. And what ESC would be good for this motor? thanks

[GPZ1000RX]

Unless you are going to do some serious racing AND have got a lot of experience of racing don't bother with the 10X3, such things need expensive batteries, speed controls and loads of maintenance etc.

The usual result of the inexperienced bolting a hot motor into their car and going racing is WORSE results due to more crashes, heavier crash damage etc. All this is assuming that the rest of the car is up to the power! (see first paragraph)

If all you are going to do is hoon around in the street then a 19X2 would be more than fast enough and much easier on the batts, speedo etc. Save the hot motor for the track, and only then when you have got some experience!

[Gruntfuggly]

Hey GPZ1000RX - no offence, but how do you know brisbaneracer is inexperienced and only wants to bash around the streets? Maybe he (she) just wants to know what tamiya chassis would be suitable for that motor? It was posted in 'RC Racing Talk' after all...

[DJTheo]

http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/post/152553.aspx

http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/157157.aspx

Doesn't look very experienced to me (nothing bad with that, we all started sometime)

Cheers

[Gruntfuggly]

You're probably right, but it felt like GPZ1000RX was being a bit condescending making that assumption...

[minijosh]

If you are racing on a super smooth surface get a TA04/5. If you are on a rocky road or has lots of small rocks get a TB01/2.  They both can use different gear ratios due to the ability to swap spurs and pinions. You aren't limited like the TL01 or the TT01. If you want to go the cheapest route, get the TT01 but if you are running a motor that hot then you'll have to dump more money into it to be able to handle the motor. By that time you could have bought the more expensive car.  If it doesn't have to be a Tamiya, email orangeman, he has a Losi XXX-S chassis. The losi's are belt driven but fully enclosed drivetrain so rocks are a thing of the past.

[terry.sc]

Back to the original question. Avoid shaft drive tourers as the huge

amount of power from the motor will make a shaft drive car torque steer

all over the place.

The Tamiya chassis best suited to the motor is the TRF 415MSX. For

other makes take your pick from the Hot Bodies Cyclone, Xray T2,

Corally RDX, Losi JRX-S, Yokomo YR-4TC BD.

For ESCs chosse from the Novak GTX, LRP Quantum 2, GM V12, KO VFS2000.

If you want a buggy for that motor choose from the Kyosho ZX5, Losi XX-4WE and JConcepts BJ4.

The one common denominator of all the above are that they are

expensive. To get the best out of a 10 turn motor you will need cars

and ESCs of the same quality as the above.

[GPZ1000RX]

Condescending? Maybe, but it seems plain to me that anyone with the experience to cope with a very hot motor would not need to be posting such an open ended question on here.

There are a lot of questions posted that are in similar vein to Bisbaneracers, and they amount to "I want to start here", when "here" is patently not a suitable starting place!

Racer,

The other posters on this one have given you lots of  specific advice on what would be a suitable chassis for your motor, and good advice too! Take note of it and price up what you need but my advice is use a lot less powerful motor than your 10X3. In comparison with what you could spend on the whole project the cost of a 19X2 or 24degree stock motor is almost irelevant, either would be a good starting point. 

A 10X3 is a good finishing point (finishing the modified A final in first place that is :-) )

Go along to your local club and talk to the racers, find out what they are using and why (many clubs do not allow hot motors, including my own club!), it pays to use equipment and parts that you can buy locally, maybe even trackside and you will certainly find a lot of set up knowledge there. You will probably find secondhand cars, batteries, in fact most stuff for sale too, I have been racing for years on 2nd hand gear, most of it is far faster than I am!

Hope all the blurb helps Racer, have fun.

[minijosh]

So brisbanracer, are you racing or just bashing with a fast motor? I tried to give you a list of cheapish cars to play with. I wouldn't avoid shaft driven cars. They have their place in racing.

[brisbaneracer]

hey guys,  i dont race, but would like to build the fastest car i can. the 10x3 motor came with a ta03f wrx with a speed controller that can only handle 15 turns so its useless until i can get a speed controller and battery, would a 3300 or higher battery be suitable? i dont know much about the gearing side of chassis, im thinking of fitting a heatsink too the motor if the chassis i choose will allow it.

[Wrc action]

heat sinks are key to running hot motors as the keep the motor cool making it more efficent and reduces wear. 3300+ batteryies will be fine. as for gearing i would have a slightly higher ratio than a racewr would say 8 to 1 or 9 to 1 to put less load on teh motor and increase your time between re builds and your run time. cheers Ryck

[minijosh]

So what chassis did you end up buying?