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Posted

Hi i use a LRP they are tiny only about 1 inch square they fit perfectly with ease!

Hi DCM71 i am going to redo my back shocks today should i use the pistion with the smallest holes? The back always bottoms so easy maybe this will be the way to go?

THANKS

Posted

If your using the kit shock oil, the yes, if you are using something decent, use the middle piston.  If you overdamp the rear, over bumps and ruts it will kick in the air, on larger jumps you can expect a certain amount of bottoming out, you just want to remove the pogo effect.

Also, I am running the Yellow gravel hound springs all round.

Posted

Hi i swapped out the 3 hole and put in the 2 hole pistoins it seems a little better now..But i know what the real problem is on the DI the suspension don't drop down enough if you take the shocks off the A arms drop lower so i came to the conclusion the DI needs longer shocks or if you want to use the stock shocks you can make them a little longer if you can find another ball connector that's longer and threads on the shock shaft ..this would make the shock longer and give you more travel..

 

Shen

Posted

Just got my blue tube heatsinks (tamiya hop up) it comes with 3 and an aluminum motor disk spacer .

I put the blue tubes on they look pretty trick hope they help cool this thing down it's a HOT runner!!

I am running a B4 81 spure and a 16 tooth pinion with a trinity super stock motor..the grean color one monster i think and it ran pretty hot so i hope the heat sinks work!

Shen

http://www.rcpics.net/media/Dark_Impact_013.jpg

 

 

 

 

Posted

that sounds well undergeared, and if undergeared they will overheat.

As much as I hope the heatsink bars work, I don't think they will have much effect, motor spacer might.

Posted

Never heard of an electric undergeard motor overheating that's a first!

The motor has almost 30,000RPM when i tested it so this is why i did not want to go up so big on the pinion gear?

Shen

Posted

I just put the motor in the other day and did not run a full batt through it so i will run it and see how hot she gets but i ran it in the driveway the other day for like 3 min or so and it felt like it was pretty hot......

Posted

Put a 20 ntooth pinion in now to test it out... I did the shock on the rear with the two hole pistons ...But there is just somthing about the DI it always feels like  the back always is bouncing up and down.. this buggy feels to me like a Toy next to my B4 the DI is very unballanced i feel...You go off a jump and the nose falls so fast it's not funny.

Posted

How the car goes over jumps has a lot to do with suspension setup, and throttle control, both leading up to the jump, and "in-air" throttle.

The DI does sometimes nosedive - but I have found that generally it jumps quite flat - you normally just have to hold on the throttle for a little longer than most cars. You cant really compare it to a B4 as very few (if any) 4wd's jump as good as 2wd's.

With regards to the shocks and handling, there is no doubt that the standard shocks are TOO short to use with the standard towers, unless you mount them in ther very inside holes on the arms - which I have found to make the car handle terribly.

There are two options -

1- Use "standard" length shocks such as the kit ones or DF02 shocks - and make smaller towers that push the shock down more giving you the increase in droop.

2- Use the kit height towers with longers shocks ie: AE B4 or Losi.

Whilst I currently use method 1 (with DF02 alloy shocks) I believe that method 2 is probably the way to go. Hopefully the DF03 shocks will be similar in length to B4 shocks.

One thing to remember, regardless of which method you use - you have to make sure that the shock stroke / suspension travel ratio is equal - in other words there is no point in getting maximum droop from the car at the expense of limiting up travel.

Ideally, the shock setup should allow the car to go from maximum downtravel to maximum uptravel whilst using 95-100% of the shock travel.

And as DCM mentioned - the suspension travel is also goverened by the drive shafts - In reality how much travel you can actually use comes down to how much angle you can get on the driveshafts before they either just about fall out of the diff outdrive (downtravel) or bottom out in the diff outdrive (up travel).

Last time out with my car I won all heats and the final - the car wasn't great on the night, but then neither were the other cars[;)]

Posted

I have a B4 here the rear shocks look shorter than the stock DI shocks?

Also because i put a 20 tooth pinion it made the buggy a little faster so now it jumps a lot better because the wheels spin faster i guess when you are up in the air and it helps lift up the buggies nose more now.

Shen

Posted

You think it would be possible to use the B4 spurs and slipper pads with tamiya slipper kit? Would work out cheaper than the B4 conversion maybe.

 

Posted

Apparently (to use B4 spur gears) you will have to drill the centre out to 5mm. I don't know how easy it would be to keep the hole dead centre.

Elliott.

Posted

the B4 spur has an imperial dimension.  If you are going to do it, buy a 5mm tapered reamer, or a ist stage reamer so at leat the reamer can get a small lead going into the plastic.

Posted

Anyone knows what's the spur size included in the Tamiya slipper clutch?

Can I use back the stock spur on this slipper clutch set?

I'm running GTB 5.5r and currently using 85/23.

Posted

From what i can see you need to use the special slipper spurs, they hav a moulded slipper inset on them. I've just ordered a 5.5 myself, how does it go?

 

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