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Posted

A clutch usually on the spur gear (Kyosho had even some pinions with it in the 90s!) which just let it slip a bit after shock impacts like jump landings to reduce the stress on the transmission. In the past it was also used as a traction help during acceleartion (mainly on 2WD buggies) but nowadays all race ESCs can also do it, so its mainly to isolate the transmission from impact peaks.

Cheers

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Posted

Thanks for the explanation - in that case, a slip clutch sounds like an excellent idea. Ordered my parts from RC Champ today, can't wait to get the DI on the road. BTW, thought some of you might be interested in this:

http://craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/clear%20w...ip%20decals.htm

Transparent decal sheets you can print yourself from a UK supplier. They also have white decal sheets, and both for laser printers as well as inkjet (if you use inkjet you seal the decals with Acrylic spray after printing to seal them). I've ordered a set, so I'll let you know how they are when they arrive and I do some design printing!

James

Posted

The fading is done using an airbrush James, they are not to expensive

although some painters DO use expensive ones and a lot of

practice.  I could do one for you Storm, but not sure what the

shipping costs from the UK to Oz would be like....

I shall call RW Racing on Monday to check on the status of the unit,

was hoping to have it for this weekend but I don't think I gave him

enough time to be fair.

GStorm, when you make your chassis, could you make it to accomodate

TA05 suspension mounting blocks on the rear so inboard toe could be

adjusted, I know it might mean having to shave some material from the

rear box, but then if it isn't holding the suspension arms on, it can

lose a little strength.??

Posted

The paint color fade on my DI pic was done with spray cans, in several very light coats of yellow, white and grape pearl. It just takes practice. I recomend warming the spray cans in a pan of warmed water prior to using them. Keep putting them in the water between coats. Shake very well, keep the spray nozzels clean. Practice, practice, practice.

Posted

Hi DCM

Would be something to look at, my chassis is allready cut, mite try it next, you would have to reverse the toe to have less than it has now ?, not sure how much room you will have near the motor.

Is the pitch of the TA05 mounts the same as the DI gear box ?

Got a email from RW, he said he will let me know when the assembly is ready.

Regards

Gary

Posted

The pitch is identical, I got the TA05 and thought hmmm, also, 3Racing

to allow versions.  If it could be done, this would allow for

better adjustment, mainly inboard toe and caster.

Posted

Hello everyone, never posted before as you can probably tell.

I am currently building a dark impact and would like to install a 15t Raven motor in stead of the standard one. I realise that i have also got to put an uprated esc in which i have got a mtronics rv15. The question is do i need to change anything else such as pinnion etc. If so what would be the best one to go for?

Cheers

Posted

You may be alright to just use the stock pinion and the larger of the 2 spur gears. My gear cover fits just fine over the larger gear.

I just ordered one of these of one of the ePay hongkong'ers..

So I am curious, what number of teeth is the stock pinion? (so I can order some smaller ones)

Posted

I've tightened the diff as instructed, I'm feeling an uneveness when turning the shafts opposite ways, loose-tight-loose-tight type of thing. Its not severe but is there. Is this normal at this stage, does the diff need to bed-in, or does something need adjusting? Its still relatively easy to get back into because I haven't done the rest of the build...

James

This could be the tamiya one-piece thrust bearing.. I've had this with a few tamiya diffs.. seems it doesn't stand up to being tightened too much? just what I think.

Posted
I've tightened the diff as instructed, I'm feeling an uneveness when turning the shafts opposite ways, loose-tight-loose-tight type of thing. Its not severe but is there. Is this normal at this stage, does the diff need to bed-in, or does something need adjusting? Its still relatively easy to get back into because I haven't done the rest of the build...

James

This could be the tamiya one-piece thrust bearing.. I've had this with a few tamiya diffs.. seems it doesn't stand up to being tightened too much? just what I think.

Which part is the 'one piece thrust bearing'?

James

Posted

Which part is the 'one piece thrust bearing'?

James

Part MR5.

On another note.... I should have a setup sheet uploaded to my Di website by Sunday (hopefully[;)])

Posted

Slipper clutch update....

Got to send the B4 gearbox to RW Racing tomorrow so he can see the

exact fitting on the B4 and thread length required.  He is looking

at getting the first ones done early to middle of next week as he has

had a few emails already.

Posted
I've tightened the diff as instructed, I'm feeling an uneveness when turning the shafts opposite ways, loose-tight-loose-tight type of thing. Its not severe but is there. Is this normal at this stage, does the diff need to bed-in, or does something need adjusting? Its still relatively easy to get back into because I haven't done the rest of the build...

James

This could be the tamiya one-piece thrust bearing.. I've had this with a few tamiya diffs.. seems it doesn't stand up to being tightened too much? just what I think.

This begs the question is there a better/more durable part available that doesn't tend to squash on tightening?

James

Posted

Yeah I know, I like them, they give the car that clean and classic Tamiya look.

However I'll probably end up using the newer rims instead, I've raised the outer upper link mounting points both front and rear so there's not much space left in the star dish wheels now.

Posted

love the DI paint job you've done pUs, but do you/did you own a TRF211, as i've got a picture of one with a very similar paint scheme, was it yours?

Posted

Hey  GSM Storm could I see a photo of what you have done on your carbon chassis.

I am going to try to make one out of alloy .

Posted

I will post some photo when I get home today, only have the bottom deck cut and some of the spacers made, have been a bit busy with real race cars.

Regards

Gary

Posted

Gary, are you keeping the cells down the middle not like that other Carbon conversion that was displayed at Shizoka.

Posted
love the DI paint job you've done pUs, but do you/did you own a TRF211, as i've got a picture of one with a very similar paint scheme, was it yours?

Thanks. Hmm no, actually I think the story is this, nope it wasn't my 211X, but I know what shell you meant, it was from the car of another fellow swede Magnus Balte.

However, I've had this paint scheme as "mine" for more than 10 years, and Anders Myrberg created it from the beginning,. I strongly suspect that he is the one who painted that 211X as well (since he and Balte is from the same city) , it looks like his style. So that can be an explanation for the similarities.. :D

Posted

Hi All

Yes DCM71, the cells will stay in the middle, I will have cut outs to position the cels and a holder attached to the top plate. The top plate will mount onto the top of the front gearbox with a cutout for the steering arm.

Were can I see the Carbon Conversion at Shizoka.

 

Regards

Gary

Dark Impact 027.jpg

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