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Posted

I have an Optima Mid bodyshell that is still intact but is showing signs of giving up the ghost, namely at the nose area (a common fracture point on these cars given the way they are fitted on to the chassis). I was thinking of applying some additional strips of lexan underneath this area to give it some strengthening 'ribs' and would do this by glueing them on. Does this sound feasible? Is there a glue/compound to be recommended/avoided when using on lexan? Or should I strengthen it some other way?

Additionally, is there a magical substance that I dont know about that glues broken lexan shells back together? Highly improbable I'm sure but there's no harm in asking!![:P]

Posted

i recently used fibreglass resin and matting to repair some cracks on some shells. i pinched it off the missus as she uses it for false nails lol.

 simply apply some resin the area and then lay the matting on the area and then apply a little more resin and , let it dry and wal-la hey presto.

i think some people used fender mender for repairing shells too

Posted

Try fender mender. It's a very strong adhesive ideal for repairing rips and tears in lexan bodies. It sticks and stays and it remains flexible. You will not need any aditional strips of lexan or something, just apply 2 or three coats of fender mender and you're done. It is called shoe goo in US.

Posted

Try fender mender. It's a very strong adhesive ideal for repairing rips and tears in lexan bodies. It sticks and stays and it remains flexible. You will not need any aditional strips of lexan or something, just apply 2 or three coats of fender mender and you're done. It is called shoe goo in US.

Yeah, I would have to agree as you want to keep it flexible. [;)]

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Tamiya's official recommendation for that is the reinforced tape they sell, the re-release Frog even has it inside and manual tells you to put it around the mount holes.

Cheers

Posted

Fender mender is indeed sensational stuff - I use it to this day on my 1/8th Evolva to stop cracking.

A cheaper alternative is plain old "Shoo Goo" !! Works every bit as well.

Cheers

Darryn

Posted

I use "all weather" tape used for glasshouse repair - it is just like sellotape but designed for outdoor use and designed to stick well in dirt and weather!

Glenn

Posted

I am with DJTheo, if they are the silver type for nitro.  The tape is easy to use, clean not messy like fibre glass with resin and adds minimal weight to the body.  I used fibre-glass and resin before, needles to say I made a mess and it eventually seperated from the shell.  (Maybe I didn't clean the body properly.)

Just a word of warning, if you are using the silver tape or any heavy tape and the body is painted in light color, i suggest spray the inside with white which will enhance the color and prevent the tape from showing.

Posted

Tamiya even came out with a tape for this, it's glass fibre re-inforced tape (Tamiya hop-up 53170 Glass Tape). It works like the silver tape and does the job pretty well.

Max

Posted

I use a little strapping tape (the kind with the fiberglass strings) and Shoo Goo just in the "problem areas" . The way I drive....I should use more. Jim

Posted

What is 'fender mender' of 'shoo glue' product known as in the UK? Anyone know please? I have a repair to do to a polycarb shell (fell off my car bonnet upside down; bodyshell NOT happy!!), and this may prove to be the answer in some tight spots on the shell.

Cheers guys,

Suzy

Posted

Oh brilliant! - sorry didn't catch on that fender mender was a British product. [:)]

I'll be ordering some of that for my poor damaged shell.

Sounds like its a handy thing to generally have in the 'ol RC toolbox. [;)]

Posted

Shoe Goo and drywall tape (the open mesh type) works wonders. I use it as reinforcement on my touring-car bodies, as the group I race with sees racing as a contact sport. Lay down a thick bead of Shoe Goo, work the mesh into it, and follow with more Goo. Let it set up overnight and it's nice and strong. And it's removeable if you decide you have to.

Posted

I find it best to re-inforce lexan shells with clear silicone sealant.  Once you've painted it and given it a few days for the solvent to fully evaporate, you can coat the inside of the shell in the areas likely to crack or split (like the nose) with clear silicone sealant. You can slap it on and build it uo so it's quite thick.   It dries hard after 24 hours and adds strenght without compromising the inherant flexible nature of the lexan shell.

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