Any Good?

[mr_pushrod]

Stick vs wheel is swings and roundabouts, one is no better than the other, it's all personal preference. Personally I prefer stick radio although that's only because it's what I grew up using it. Even if you've only had wheel previously, I would try a stick transmitter to start off with as you get one with the kit. While it may seem odd to start with, you'll soon get the hang of it.

[Jcbiker]

Cheers again. I've found the kit and pack for cheaper in a local shop, but i'm not sure what control it comes with yet.

I'm guessing the TT01 will be fine for this as i do enjoy a little 'bling' for comedy value. I presume the larger wheels will result in slower acceleration but higher top speed?

[mr_pushrod]

Just make sure you check the full details of the kit, you don't want to be lumbered with a low capacity battery and slow charger. You are right about the Hummer shell although the wheels and tyres work out pretty expensive if you include the spinner kit. From memory you're looking at £30 for wheels and tyres plus £40 for the spinners.

[Wrc action]

£40 for spinners!! thats a rip of. Yeah do check the kit specs espically charger as a 12hr charger as many shops include to be able to title it rtr are extremely annoying. u might want to factor in any extra paints u might need for a spare body - the really shint bling paint isn't cheap.

regards Ryck

[mr_pushrod]

To be fair, they are milled alloy and bearing supported. Still spinners though which means they'll be nowhere near any of my cars, lol.

[Wrc action]

Alloy - at least there nt plastic tho I'll be keeping my 5 spokes, or multi's for DTM. No spinners under pain of bricks for the car in question lol.

[Jcbiker]

i know it comes with a 30min charger, but not sure what capacity the batt is. If its not over 3000mAh then i'll just get em to swap it for an extra couple of quid. All is good.

Only thing now is, i gotta wait 8 days to get it all, no money till next fri. []

I'm not guna go for the hummer and 24's straight away, i'ma use any extra money i have left for the alum. shaft, bearings, metal motor mount and metal heat sink, and maybe a motor in a few days if the pace is a little on the shy side.

Whats the stock motor like on TT01's, just a cheapo tamiya jobby or summet with a little kick?

With the stock set up, will i be able to just jam the throttle and get the wheels spinning a couple of times till it finds traction and gets going?

 

If i do need a qicker motor, i like the look of this but i've been told i'll need a new ESC coz its a 19 turn motor and i can only put a 23t or above in with the stock ESC.

Can someone explan what the 'turns' do, and what spec ESC i'd need for the lower turn motor?

[mr_pushrod]

Standard motor is a normal silver can 540, not the fastest motor out there but enough go to get the wheels spinning. Make sure the charger is peak detect and not one that works off a timer. A peak detect charger only cuts off when the battery is fully charged while a timer one will charge for a set time and may not completely charge the battery.

[Jcbiker]

Cheers about the motor. Just had a look at the ESC's and it seems they can be the most expensive part of a competition racer (with the exception of the chassis).

I'll make sure its a descent charger. So, quick (30mins) and peak detect, Got it.

[mr_pushrod]

Bear in mind the TT-01 should come with an ESC included (the Z-Tune does) although this will only handle a slight increase in power.

[Jcbiker]

Yeh, i know it comes with one, it was just while i was pondering on how much it would cost me to uprate the power.

[Mad Ax]

Yeh, i know it comes with one, it was just while

i was pondering on how much it would cost me to uprate the

power.

Re: motors and turns, generally speaking the less "turns" the more

power the motor will make, with a trade-off on run-time.  i.e. a

lower turn motor will make your car go faster, but the battery won't

last as long.

Also the fewer turns in the motor, the more strain it puts on the ESC, hence ESCs get more expensive as the turn rating reduces.

Most hobby shops will sell an unlimited ESC for around £40, which will

handle any motor you choose to stick in it.  I bought a no limits

ESC with my Dark Impact from the word go, so I know I can throw in any

motor I choose without worrying about extra expense.

Try it on stock power for a bit anyway, if you haven't used an RC for a

while it'll take some getting used to.  The slower it goes, the

less damage you'll do when you crash it []

Ax

[mr_pushrod]

Pretty much spot on although I wouldn't trust a £40 no limit ESC. I'd probably go for an LRP ESC as they are reliable and spares backup is good. You can pick up an AI for around £45 that has an 11 turn limit which will be easily enough for most people - an 11 would equate to 35mph+ but runtimes of around 6 minutes on a 3300.

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=18553

[Wrc action]

Just run it stock and keep in mind its only a TT01 - so to much power espcally with spring dampers will not be gd for outright pace. what do u plan to use the car for? bashin with mates or serious racing? as this will effect your choices.

regards Ryck

[Jcbiker]

Just bashing.

Maybe a little racing in the 'stock' classes or summet. i'm gunna be uprating suspension etc. But if i decide i love RC i'll probs save up for an associated (sp?) or summet. But just for now, just keep it for fun. I'm probably guna drift it, but i'd like some 30+mph speed just to show off .

[Jcbiker]

My idea is to have the z-tune for road and drifting, but then be able to stick a rally body on it, soften the suspension, and stick knobblies on it, and for it to go off road, a little like this.

[mr_pushrod]

Sounds like a workable plan, shocks are so cheap (£15 a set from ebay) you could easily swap between 2 pairs to make it ride softer or harder depending on surface.

[Wrc action]

Yeah a gd workable plan - Id look at a relibale motor like the peak dynasty V2 over the reedy one. it'll more reliable and also just as quick. I use one in my basher TA05 and it runs superbly.

regards Ryck

[Jcbiker]

Is it possible to change the ride height without changeing the springs, like for the shocks to be mounted in defferent places to adjust height?

[Wrc action]

please see my reply to your other thread, no not on the standard TT01 as theres only 1 set of mounting points. + whats the difference between chnaging 8 screws for mounting points and 8 screws for different shocks thereby giving you more options to tune with softer springs etc.

regards Ryck

[Jcbiker]

Yeh, sorry about posting twice, but i thought i'd get an answer just to that, if i made a new thread about it.

Cheers, its a good few quid difference, haha. but yeh, when i can afford it after my initial purchase, i'm gunna get the blue GPM shocks, and alu. wishbones and knuckles etc.

[mr_pushrod]

While the shocks are worth it, the alu suspension components are a bit of a waste of money IMO. The plastic is more than strong enough so all you'll be doing is increasing unsprung weight therefore making the car handle worse and become slower.

[Jcbiker]

Cheers.

When i was into XMODS, the Alu. parts were well worth it, just because the stock parts break WAY easy. I pressumed 1:10 would be the same, but obviously not.

I still have my old Xmod trigger type controller, if i used matching crystals in the controller and TT-01, would that work?

If not, i also have and old QD trigger controller, if i used the same crystals, would that work?

[mr_pushrod]

Am pretty sure the X-Mods controller won't be compatible, I couldn't use my stick handset on my X-Mod so I assume it won't work the other way round. QD controller may work although don't they only use a 9v battery like the X-Mod? I would say this wouldn't give enough range to control the car properly. Best try the sticks first, you'll get the hang of them pretty quickly.

[Jcbiker]

Oic.

Being that i'm getting the starter pack from my LHS now, i'm not sure if its trigger or sticks yet. Either way, i'll stick with what i've got till i need to upgrade.