Help In The Art Of Drifting!

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Just got a Tamiya Nismo R34 GT-R Z-Tune, from Modelsport with a set of HPI Drift tyre's.

Wondering what i should go for recommendation's i guess e.g. Motor (turns) any special hop-up parts i should buy for the TT-01. Also what can i use instead of buying £10 a pair tyres?

Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Chris (AP)

[mr_pushrod]

The HPI tyres really offer a bit too much grip for drifting, I prefer to use PVC/ABS pipe. It's much cheaper (£10 would get you a massive length of pipe), much harder wearing and gives much better drifts. All you need to do is get some the right diameter and it will either be held in place by friction alone or need a spot of superglue. With pipe instead of tyres, a silver can will be enough although I personally use a Venom Fireball 21 turn so I never find I am running out of revs. The Venom gives more than enough power, is cheap (£12) and gives plenty of runtime. As for hop ups, bearings, metal prop and a heatsink are worthwhile obviously but the main things that will improve your drifts will be a locked rear diff and one way front diff.

The locked rear will ensure you never 'diff out' (having the inside rear wheel spin more than the outside) therefore be able to hold more consistant drifts. The one way will make driving harder although it will be much easier to initiate a drift. This is because the one way allows the front wheels to freewheel therefore giving a handbrake effect if you come off the power or brake. Oil shocks aren't really needed as you are going so slowly although I do run stiffer springs on the back of mine so it's even more likely to enter corners sideways. You could also buy adjustable upper links to give a bit more camber so it is less likely to snag on any lumps in the road although they aren't vital.

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Another Drift question, will it be hard to get the car to drift in 4wd or 2wd, as the way im thinking is with more power only to the rear will be easier to 'throw' the back end out or in RC scale drifting doesn't matter 2wd or 4wd.

 

Cheers Chris (AP)

[mr_pushrod]

2WD drifting is nigh on impossible, the car is too responsive for you to be able to correct any slide. 4WD drifting is the only way to go.

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Cheers for the advice & quick responce. May'be see you at a TC meet. Never been to one yet.

The Primera Shell by the way i've only got £15 in paypal any chance for it?

Cheers Chris (AP)

[mr_pushrod]

I dare say you will, I try to get to as many as I can! I'm afraid the Primera shell isn't for sale.

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Thanks again for taking the time to reply, Cheers Chris (AP)

[irenL]

the main things that will improve your drifts will be a locked rear diff and one way front diff.

The locked rear will ensure you never 'diff out' (having the inside rear wheel spin more than the outside) therefore be able to hold more consistant drifts. The one way will make driving harder although it will be much easier to initiate a drift. This is because the one way allows the front wheels to freewheel therefore giving a handbrake effect if you come off the power or brake. Oil shocks aren't really needed as you are going so slowly although I do run stiffer springs on the back of mine so it's even more likely to enter corners sideways. You could also buy adjustable upper links to give a bit more camber so it is less likely to snag on any lumps in the road although they aren't vital.

mr_p, i'm not too sure about running a 1 way up front, certainly it's easier to slide since the rear is doing all the braking, but wouldn't that give it a tendency to side-swipe in 1 direction at off throttle?

probably I lack the triger-finesse... ah well, prefer race drift than exhibition drift in either case..

imo: the thing a 2wd chassis need to drift easy would be some working front brakes.

[mr_pushrod]

I'm into exhibition drift so am trying to make sure the car is never in a straight line. For this purpose it's awesome, you can have it totally sideways before the corner starts and easily get out of understeer. It is harder but I don't think I'd want a drifter without one now.

[irenL]

fine answer.

ok, anyone have tried hpi D-box?

[mr_pushrod]

I haven't although I have heard it's basically a re-badged gyro. Sounds to me like it would take some of the challenge (therefore fun) out of drifting.

[Glitch]

Re: front one way: i think its a matter of what sort of circuit and surface you are driving: it really helps to step the car out (or throw the drift, depending on the terminology active in your part of the world) so i put one in for very technical courses or for very high grip surfaces where i am struggling to break traction...

Re: Dbox: i have tried one (or at least much cheaper Chinese copy... the Alpha Drift X). Looks for all the world like a GWS heli gyro. I have mixed feelings about it. It certainly smooths out your lines by making lots of micro countersteers etc, but it takes away from your control as it interprets some oversteer as excessive and corrects when you actually want the over... it think its good for flashy high speed parking lot drifting, but not much else. It requires a different driving style: because you have less feel for the car, you need lot more pre-emptive line selection before you start a drift, you feint or throttle up to break traction, and then let the gyro do the rest. You cant really change the line much. So its a bit more aggressive.

I find it difficult to switch from drifting with it on, and with it off, (and vice versa) so i tend to keep it switched off...

Someone on RCDori made the point that the Dbox might allow RWD RC drifting to be attempted, so that could be the fate of my one: slap it on a MO4 chassis to see if you can actually drift a RWD car...

My "first impression" review of driving with a gyro is posted on www.oneten.co.za, for those interested.

[DJTheo]

My recommendations for TT01 drifting are ABS tires (cheaper and give better drifts, less wearing), adjustable upper arms to adjust camber (I used -2° at front and -1° at rear), alu steering and fast servo to be able to control it faster and preciser, I use motors from 17-23T, here is mine

 

Agree on the drift box, seems nothing else then a heli gyro and takes away most of the fun or art, but would be interesting on 2WD, doubt it would do miracles though as any electronic system (also ABS or ESP on real cars) can't override the laws of physics and thus be much better then a very good driver.

Cheers

[3doorpete]

I'd also go for the metal motor mount in the TT-01 as a hopup. Keeps the gears meshing better. Heatsink is a very good idea as you are generally going quite slowly with high throttle openings. I find things get a bit hot, even with me running just a Tamiya 23T Superstock RZ motor.

Next mod on my list is the adjustable upper arms as tyres edges can snag a bit sometimes, ruining the drift.

Here's my RX7 TT01  http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...75&id=11222.

I also have the carbon chassis top brace - not needed for drifting as lack of grip means chassis is never trying to twist, but it does look particularly nice. []

[DJTheo]

I'd also go for the metal motor mount in the TT-01 as a hopup. Keeps the gears meshing better. Heatsink is a very good idea as you are generally going quite slowly with high throttle openings. I find things get a bit hot, even with me running just a Tamiya 23T Superstock RZ motor.

True, had them from the start (heatsink is standard on TT01D and R) so I forgot them.

Cheers

[Jcbiker]

I take it ABS is just a type of plastic in tube form..?

If so, i'll be making a short trip to B&Q sharpish.

[DJTheo]

Yes, most are made from ABS or PVC pipes cut to the desired width, you just need to find one with the correct inner diameter (= external diameter of your wheels)

Cheers

[Jcbiker]

Yeh, thought so, cheers theo.

[Mad Ax]

Is it easy to find said pipe with the correct diameter..?

i.e. will I find some at B&Q, or do I need to scour the phone directories for ABS pipe specialists..?

I'm looking at a TT01D kit for next month's Tamiya fix, as it comes

with so many hop-ups over the Skyline kit (but a slightly pants Subaru

shell [] )

[cianhanrahan]

Someone on RCDori made the point that the Dbox might allow RWD RC

drifting to be attempted, so that could be the fate of my one: slap it

on a MO4 chassis to see if you can actually drift a RWD car...

That was me (I'm Insomniac/Vdubbin depending on the forum)

I'd be really interested to hear how you get on! Whay I'd like is to get my hands on some ABS that will fit over a Mini wheel. Combining that with the DBox would be the best solution I think.

[Jcbiker]

I'm going with the skyline kit just coz i love the shell, and i dont mind installing the hop-ups later on.

I shouldn't think itd be that hardto find the correct size... B&Q have quit a wide selection. I think standard wheels are roughly 2 inches in diameter, and i'd of thought thats a opretty commom pipe size.

[DJTheo]

For RWD drifting I would try it on a car with center of mass very much in the front as this way its more easy to control, had done some drifting in the 80s with a 1:10 Kyosho nitro Corvette motor which I had converted to electro motor (mid) and battery mid to the front. Guess a TA03F converted to RWD would make a great start.

Cheers

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Found this on ebay last one, i got 2nd last one a CARSON TB-01 chassis and motor NIB for £29.99 in the uk

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A%3AIT&rd=1

[mr_pushrod]

That isn't a TB-01, it's Carson's own chassis. Not exactly a great car but you can't grumble for £30.

[Mad Ax]

DJTheo, I am holding you and your "The Need for Drift" video personally

responsible for my sudden irrepressible urge to purchase a drift

impreza month[:@]