Help In The Art Of Drifting!

[Glitch]

@cianhanrahan: well well, dont you get around..lol...

For the DBox/RWD tests i was thinking i will just use standard 26mm rims and ABS tyres on the M04 chassis, ala the Tamiya S2000, Z3 and SLK. Cheap and easy, cos its all stuff i have...

Active Hobby make mini drift tyres for their 4wd 1:10 minifan chassis - dont know how they compare dimension-wise to the tamiya rims/tyres, but if you are set on drifting a mini, its worth investigating both the tyres and the chassis...

[DJTheo]

DJTheo, I am holding you and your "The Need for Drift" video personally

responsible for my sudden irrepressible urge to purchase a drift

impreza month[:@]

Sorry and glad at the same time, welcome to the addiction! [][H]

Cheers

[irenL]

Re: Dbox: i have tried one (or at least much cheaper Chinese copy... the Alpha Drift X). Looks for all the world like a GWS heli gyro. I have mixed feelings about it. It certainly smooths out your lines by making lots of micro countersteers etc, but it takes away from your control as it interprets some oversteer as excessive and corrects when you actually want the over... it think its good for flashy high speed parking lot drifting, but not much else. It requires a different driving style: because you have less feel for the car, you need lot more pre-emptive line selection before you start a drift, you feint or throttle up to break traction, and then let the gyro do the rest. You cant really change the line much. So its a bit more aggressive.

I find it difficult to switch from drifting with it on, and with it off, (and vice versa) so i tend to keep it switched off...

Someone on RCDori made the point that the Dbox might allow RWD RC drifting to be attempted, so that could be the fate of my one: slap it on a MO4 chassis to see if you can actually drift a RWD car...

My "first impression" review of driving with a gyro is posted on www.oneten.co.za, for those interested.

interesting review... now I'm even more curious... I think I see an older gyro for heli in the lhs discount bin... this, I presume, would act like an Electronic Stability Control in 1:1 cars...

The lot I'm running on is very dusty, uneven, and has plenty enough peebles to get the tail swinging. Too much sometimes.

Found this on ebay last one, i got 2nd last one a CARSON TB-01 chassis and motor NIB for £29.99 in the uk

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

As said before, it's not a tamiya. Depending on where you live, it'll be carried under different name brand. For instance, I think smartech branded that chassis in the states. Quite an ok "cheap" chassy.

[Seriesofmoments=life]

I know its not a tamiya but its good for anyone wanting to get a touring car chassis cheap to start drifting, thats why i bought one, suprised no-one else has bought one as a run about ro something just to put a nice shell on?

[Mad Ax]

I know its not a tamiya but its good for

anyone wanting to get a touring car chassis cheap to start drifting,

thats why i bought one, suprised no-one else has bought one as a run

about ro something just to put a nice shell on?

I was dead tempted when I saw the link, but then I thought...  But

the time I've sourced a battery, ESC, radio gear, body shell and new

wheels for drifting, I'm not actually too far off the package price for

a complete TT01D...  Which is a better chassis with shedloads of

hop-ups, and comes with everything I need to get going straight away

[]

[scoobs]

DJTheo, I am holding you and your "The Need for Drift" video personally

responsible for my sudden irrepressible urge to purchase a drift

impreza month[:@]

Or you could of course just watch my Impreza drift video - link in sig... []

[Seriesofmoments=life]

I've got the New Tamiya TT-01 Skyline in the very first post just saw this and decided may's well buy it cheap chassis, to me a very good starter car as it comes with a motor also.

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Still no-one bought the carson?

[Seriesofmoments=life]

Have i purchased a dud? lol

[Mad Ax]

Have i purchased a dud? lol

dunno, let us know when you've driven it []

I'm saving for the TT01D next month [] if my LHS can get one, or I can find one on-line (goldstar are out of stock until Sept)

[Mad Ax]

Incidentally, I've got a custom M04 at home that's never been

used... Might be tempted to swap the front (hard) tyres

with the rear (soft) tyres and see if it can be pursuaded to drift

around the local car park.... When I've got around to

buying a radio for it, obviously[:S]

[Glitch]

Err, i tried drifting an M04. Lets just say its not particularly satisfactory...

In an aside in a thread on my RallyX mini, Odyssey (team D10 drift guru) explained why drifting 1:1 RWD cars doesnt scale to 1:10 RWD cars.

This from http://www.oneten.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=243 :

Odyssey:

"The reason that RWD RC cars can't drift is because of traction, or rather the lack & abundance thereof. Picture the rear wheels spinning like crazy under power, and the front wheels just sitting there, glued to the tarmac. Which set of wheels do you think is gonna overtake the other set?... yes, the rear tries to get ahead of the front, hence the continous donuts.

"The other reason is brakes... when braking a 1:1 car the front and rear wheels all brake together. Not so with 1:10....the only wheels that can brake are the wheels that have "drive", in this case being the rear. And we all know what happens when only the rear wheels lock....yep, the *** comes around to bight you in the....well....***.

"However, a 4WD car with a front 1-way diff has this self same effect, but the difference is that you only have 2WD when no power is going to any of the wheels, or when under braking...as soon as you're on the gas again, all 4 wheels are pulling you through or out of the drift.

"So in conclusion, the combination of 2 wheel traction and 2 wheel braking is the reason that it is almost impossible to drift a RWD RC car. (Note - i said ALMOST impossible....i'm pretty sure there are a few maestros out there who can actually make it happen )..."

[3doorpete]

M-04 is hard enough to keep in a straight line without spinning accidentally, let alone drift []

I have sold my fully hopped up Alfa Romeo Giulia. I ran the soft tyres back and front with ballracing and a 23 turn superstock motor. It was a nightmare and would spin in a straight line unless you were very gentle with the throttle. Even when I put a silver can in, things improved, but still not much fun.

Their small size and narrowness also means they roll very easilty when sliding sideways if they touch any dips or cracks in the road. This destroys the beautiful shell which you can no longer get!

M04's are much better to look at than to drive.

[Mad Ax]

M04's are much better to look at than to drive.

that's why mine was bought for the shelf []

[DJTheo]

I can't completely agree with Odyssey, ok on braking he has a point but not on the traction issue, this doesn't differ much between 1:1 and 1:10. As I wrote before I think the main reason RC RWDs don't drift controllably is their weight distribution, as they are have rear or mid motor, also rear/mid engine real cars are very hard to keep in a drift that's why 99% of the 1:1 drifters are front engine cars, I hope someone with a TA03F converted to RWD prooves me right []

Cheers

[Mad Ax]

I think that's why my M04 will be a good project to experiment

with...  It was an M04L, but (when it's finished) will be over an

inch shorter than stock, and fitted with a solid aluminium full-width

floor plate bracketry.  It's possible that I might also mount the

battery longitudinally to bring the weight forwards too...  We'll

have to see how much space is available underneath my shell...

The project is theoretically being built as a shelf project, not a

runner, hence it has no radio, ESC or battery at present, but if I end

up with some spare time I might stick some stuff in temporarily and see

how it runs.

Picked up some Carson wheels for it today, so I could fit the original

BMW wheels with ABS pipe and see what happens... All this

is purely speculative, as I'm sure the TT01D will be infinately better

at the job anyway []

[scoobs]

I have two chassis I use for drifting - the first is a TA03F, fairly standard apart from a few bits. It drifts really well, as the back end is pretty light (motor up front, battery in the middle). Because the back end is light, it's also easier to lose the drift and spin, but it's also a little more agile if your on a tight drift course, for example.

I also use my TA03R-TRF (which was the one in the video below), which is a rear motor version. This also has a front one-way and a tightish balldiff in the rear.

The TRF is better balanced overall, but the rear end is obviously heavier, making it a little harder to make it step out, but once it is out, is actually easier to keep it there. The front one-way really helps because if you are up in the top end of the motor and don't quite have enough extra power to push the back out a little more, you can brake a little which is like hand braking - it lets the back end go.

Drifting is all about balancing your throttle and steering, and I would say the 03F is easier to drift for beginners but the R is a little trickier but actually more satisfying when you get it right in huge power slides.

In either case, drifting is big fun!

[DJTheo]

I believe you that TA03R is more satisfying then the F, I was reffering though to rear wheel drive drifters and there I am pretty much convinced that front motor (weight balance) is the only way to success. Now I must get myself a TA03F...

Cheers

[Jcbiker]

Just went down B&Q, £1.26 for 2m of PVC/ABS tubing, great value, but not an exstensive range of sizes.. Might head down the local Plumb-centre later.