Tamiya TRF415MSX Setup Help

[CarKing]

I was just looking for any sort of tips when I start out setting up my new 415MSX. I went from the TA04R to this, so it is a jump for me. Stuff like the suspension blocks and what they do. Anything else who has run one of these cars thinks I would need to know would be great!

[bender]

The MSX is just a great car!

I have a number of good setups on my website here:

http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/bender/setups.htm

For an excel spreadsheet which has all the toe block combinations (plus more setups) go here:

http://www.thard.co.uk/

 

[ideal2k]

How does this thing handle?

I mean, it has a front one way and a centre one way, that way you only get rear-end brakes, doesn't that mean you'd get a lot of oversteer on heavy braking?

[bender]

It really depends on the track layout and class you race.

I have found that double one-ways work the best running stock and 19T on asphalt with rubber tyres.

On an open track in Mod one-ways are ok, but if you race on a track that requires a lot of braking then a spool or diff is usually better.

Of course it is also driver preference, since switching to cars with one-ways, I'll never run anything else in Stock or 19T.

[CarKing]

If I have the one way in the front, is there anyway to dial out some of the rear braking? Have you run a spool before in the front? Most people at my track seem to prefer it. Based off of the setups posted above, a front spool seems to work best.

[bender]

You can dial out some braking via your transmitter adjustments or sometimes on the esc itself.

As I said, i really is personal preference. I use one-ways, and I use brakes too! You just have to get the technique right.

If you brake with one-ways, then you only need to tap the brakes lightly, and you only do it with the front wheels pointing straight ahead, never do it as the car is turning as you'll be likely to spin out.

Spools are good in Mod where you often have to brake hard at the end of straights, but spools are very in-efficient, and cause excessive wear to the drivetrain at the front. A spool usually give much more on-power steering, but much less turn-in.

I have often heard it said that spools are for "lazy" drivers who just want to throw their car round the track without any real finesse or technique. For stock class in particular, one-ways are usually always faster - if you can learn how to drive with them[]

[gozone]

For the time, i am also running a few tourers in my local club, being a 27 stock powered TB evolution IV, a 19 superstock-powered TB evolution V, a LRP Star-3 brushless powered TRF415 and a LRP Star-3 brushless powered 415 MSX..

None of these cars are being run with spool, even though i have them "in stock", simply due to the fact, that i also find that IF you have the need for braking, you have simply mis-judged your speed and distance before the next turn, quite often making it a not-nice episode in the turn, LOL.

I find it much more useful to let go of the gas in time, and just take the turn at a suitable speed, with no need for braking, and launching the car out of the turn at max. power.  Of course, this is only possible with a good setup, and nicely tweaked car, but that is the case in any kind of touringcar racing.

I am yet to find the "perfect" setup for especially the MSX. I think that every time you get something "right" in the setup, some other thing on the chassis will suffer more or less, LOL..

And even though there are many, many setup-guides to study, you can never expect any of them to work 100% on YOUR car and to match YOUR driving style.

Personally, i would recommend setting up the car as described in the build manual, and work your way from there, as you will gain much more understanding for the ways, the setup effects your car, and what changes the different settings does to the car..

The most important thing to remember when it comes to tourers is probably the fact that the car must be straioght at all times, and not be tweaked or twisted from an accident. Even a small bend to one of the suspension shafts can make the car stable to one side, and totally veer offline to the other side, so always keep this in mind. 

After every saturday of racing, even though my car has not had any accidents, i always loosen all the screws i´n the chassis, to allow the chassis to "flex back" to original shape, and avoid tensions which builds up in the chassis after it has had a crash, because of the slight play in the screw holes, which can cause the chassis to get "stuck" in a warped position.. This also affects the cars performance right away, but in greater or smaller degree, and not always noticeable.

 

But take your time, and try different settings on the track you are racing on, to find the best setup, which suits both yourself and the track.

Oh, and remember. ALWAYS only make one alteration to the chassis at one time, and find out what difference it has made, before making another change.. This way, you will be able to pinpoint exactly WHAT works for you, adn what doesnt, which you cannot, if you change 5 or 6 things at a time.

 

Good luck, and regards..

Michael

[CarKing]

Thanks for the tips and advice. Probably more useful to me than any setup would have been. I have been trying out Marc Rheinard's setup from Reedy since I am running the same track he was on and he did ok. I am using it as more of seeing what I like and what I don't

Yeah my problem has always been adjusting the braking out of the car when using the one way, so I have to learn how to do that effectively.