Sand scorcher RC

[Old Busted Hotness]

Sounds to me like you're after the experience of building one from new. If that experience is worth the depreciation (and we all know it would be, admit it) then do it. Life, after all, is a series of experiences and their quality influences your overall happiness. If you don't do it, you'll still be wishing you had.

HOWEVER, if you go ahead with this, you must take pics during every step of the process, and post them here so that we can all vicariously enjoy the process as well. If you just build the thing without doing this, you will be hunted down and your Scorcher taken away. Doesn't matter where you go. TC is everywhere [6]

[Wandy]

Well I say do the best of both worlds! Without doubt build it but then put it on a shelf, fork out another £150 - £200 and get a good runner. Sorted. You've then had the experience of building it from out of the box but have non of the guilt of ruining a rare a piece of R/C history.

[twoscoops]

Ok,

Bought a ready built (awfully painted) complete runner, will keep the

NIB, sell it on eventually, make a million, sail round the world etc

etc.

What is the blue colour on the box artwork? Is it French Blue? I want

to restore and repaint the bodyshell and put new decals on.

[eek!]

Sorry WG but I have to disagree with you.[]  He says he's new to

this stuff, (which I take meaning vintage R/C?)  If so starting

with a NIB Sand Scorcher would be like learning to drive in a showroom

Bentley (spell?) Merc or Lexus.  I don't think this is a smart

idea. 

Twoscoops,

You say it bonus time?  Great for you!!  Now take your bonus,

spend approximately $500 (USD) and get a clean RR or SS (Rough Rider,

Sand Scorcher) off the bay or here on TC.  I think you mentioned

about the possible re-sale value of it with the

accessories, I take that as a consideration of "possibly" reselling it

later??  Don't worry about the accessories the SS will out perform

in value just about any accessory you chould get for it (with the

exception of a Shodog cage or Tamiya Black motor).  If concerned

about buying a used SRB with possibly missing parts or poor build, then

look through the showrooms on TamiyaClub, find an owner with multiple

cars and give him/her an offer they can't refuse (I'm thinking

$500-$1000 should get their attention) on one of their nicer models.  (I'm not one of them, sorry)

If your new to 1/10 RC, then YOU WILL EVENTUALLY CRASH THIS CAR

(they have an unexplained "mysterious" magnetic attraction to curbs,

trees, 1:1 cars, houses

etc)....it's only a matter of "when".  Unless a relative of Bill

Gates, save the NIB and enjoy knowing you have a work of art, buy a

runner then have fun driving/bashing!  If you still wish to build

it, that's fine, at least you will have appreciated the "fragility" of

the preious runner and know how to handle it.

In summary:  Walk before you run[]

Best,

[twoscoops]

Sorry WG but I have to disagree with you.[]  He says he's new to

this stuff, (which I take meaning vintage R/C?)  If so starting

with a NIB Sand Scorcher would be like learning to drive in a showroom

Bentley (spell?) Merc or Lexus.  I don't think this is a smart

idea. 

Twoscoops,

You say it bonus time?  Great for you!!  Now take your bonus,

spend approximately $500 (USD) and get a clean RR or SS (Rough Rider,

Sand Scorcher) off the bay or here on TC.  I think you mentioned

about the possible re-sale value of it with the

accessories, I take that as a consideration of "possibly" reselling it

later??  Don't worry about the accessories the SS will out perform

in value just about any accessory you chould get for it (with the

exception of a Shodog cage or Tamiya Black motor).  If concerned

about buying a used SRB with possibly missing parts or poor build, then

look through the showrooms on TamiyaClub, find an owner with multiple

cars and give him/her an offer they can't refuse (I'm thinking

$500-$1000 should get their attention) on one of their nicer models.  (I'm not one of them, sorry)

If your new to 1/10 RC, then YOU WILL EVENTUALLY CRASH THIS CAR

(they have an unexplained "mysterious" magnetic attraction to curbs,

trees, 1:1 cars, houses

etc)....it's only a matter of "when".  Unless a relative of Bill

Gates, save the NIB and enjoy knowing you have a work of art, buy a

runner then have fun driving/bashing!  If you still wish to build

it, that's fine, at least you will have appreciated the "fragility" of

the preious runner and know how to handle it.

In summary:  Walk before you run[]

Best,

Hi, yes as said, bought a runner now, will do a damned good restore on it. I still may build the NIB though.

[eek!]

Good grief!  I missed your post (right above) about purchasing a

runner, sorry bout that.  Think I need new glasses[:S]

Anyway, have fun with it.  The SRBs are really quite nice.[]

Best,

[MikeT]

Here's My 2p Worth...

Obviously , it would be one of the greatest pleasures in the world to build a NIB Scorcher ( Only bettered by building a SEALED NIB SCORCHER, or a NIB Hilux ) But the price drop would be insane, but, as i hope you are in this hobby for THE HOBBY, and NOT AN INVESTMENT, you don't care eh?

Kee, The SRB's Really are quite nice aren't they, and they make super runners! Here is a vid of my quite modified Sand Scorcher at the beach!

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...673064079613181

This is the thread in which i documented all of the steps i went through to make such a good runner... Obviously i missed a few parts out, watch the vid to see what i mean!

http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/171256.aspx

Thanks Alot, if you do build the NIB, you must take a photo EVERY STEP OF THE MANUAL!

Mike

[twoscoops]

I think I might be getting a bit hooked here, Tamiya black motor ?? What's that, sounds intriguing.

For the runner, I am thinking about possibly upgrading the following.

The motor and gears (are metal ones available)

The suspension and runnig gear.

Possibly the control gear, not sure if I am that bothered about that, although I probably should be.

However, one thing that is not negotiable for me at any rate, is that the outward apperance should be "boxart"

Thanks, again for all your kind advice, I'm looking forward to getting stuck in. Bit additive all this RC stuff!!

[MikeT]

Hello TwoScoops.

Yes there are metal gears available, although a Diff. would be a better option.

I use a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor, this is a NON REBUILDABLE MOTOR, and also requires a hole drilling in the gear case to be fitted.

Mike

[twoscoops]

Hello TwoScoops.

Yes there are metal gears available, although a Diff. would be a better option.

I use a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor, this is a NON REBUILDABLE MOTOR,

and also requires a hole drilling in the gear case to be fitted.

Mike

A diff, I'm sure you're correct, but a diff / gears? separate components??. Could you clarify ??

Also, the difference between a Black sport tuned motor and a technigold.

I know, I'm on a steep learning curve here. Thanks for your patience.

[eek!]

Here's My 2p Worth...

Obviously , it would be one of the greatest pleasures in the world to build a NIB Scorcher ( Only bettered by building a SEALED NIB SCORCHER, or a NIB Hilux ) But the price drop would be insane, but, as i hope you are in this hobby for THE HOBBY, and NOT AN INVESTMENT, you don't care eh?

Kee, The SRB's Really are quite nice aren't they, and they make super runners! Here is a vid of my quite modified Sand Scorcher at the beach!

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...673064079613181

This is the thread in which i documented all of the steps i went through to make such a good runner... Obviously i missed a few parts out, watch the vid to see what i mean!

http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/171256.aspx

Thanks Alot, if you do build the NIB, you must take a photo EVERY STEP OF THE MANUAL!

Mike

 

Great little vid Mike.  I've no doubt why Tamiya named it Sand Scorcher.[]  Looked like fun!

 

 

[MikeT]

Kee- badword YES IT WAS FUN!

TwoScoops- The Sport Tuned ( NOT THE SAME AS A BLACK MOTOR ) is 27t with advanced timing, the Technigold is 21turns, and also has a Torque ring, meaning the can is 1mm more in diameter, and will not fit the gearcase.

Mike

[twoscoops]

At least I was right in one respect. I am getting more confused. I'll

do a bit more research and not bother you again until perhaps I have

some sensible questions to ask!

In the meantime, thanks again for your responses.

[Shodog]

At least I was right in one respect. I am getting more confused. I'll do a bit more research and not bother you again until perhaps I have some sensible questions to ask!

In the meantime, thanks again for your responses.

Don't worry about asking sensible questions as there are plenty of non-sensical questions asked every day.

Check out this great page http://home19.inet.tele.dk/martinjordt/res...tors/motors.htm

It has specs on quite a few tamiya motors

The problem you will find is that the only motor that fits perfectly is the stock one.  The black motors require you to rotate the motor cover one set of holes which make the motor cover not fit properly.  Most other motors require you to drill a hole in the gear case so you can secure it with a screw or you will need to hog out the hole becuase newer motors are slightly bigger in diameter.

[MikeT]

I agree with Jim's motor cover comment, the motor seems to be longer?

Mike

[Shodog]

I agree with Jim's motor cover comment, the motor seems to be longer?

Mike

It's not that it's longer, its the orientation between the pin inside the case and where the wires exit the endbell in relation to how the motor cover bolts to the gear case.  The motor cans are different between the stock motor and the black motor. 

[twoscoops]

Got the tools out to strip my "runner". I am lucky, it has hop up

bearings. I am also unlucky, the vintage shell, apart from the obvious

knocks and missing bits, has been sprayed in automotive paint. What is

the best way to remove it ?

Have tried

Soap and water, predicably useless,

T-Cut, very slow.

Petrol, dangerous

Gunk, as above.

Oven cleaner, useless.

Wire wool, slow and damaging.

Nail Varnish remover.

What now? Brake fluid.?

Suggestions appreciated.

[terry.sc]

Hard bodies are easy, just soak it in brake fluid. A quicker method is

to use oven cleaner but you do need to use the strongest you can find.

Mr Muscle oven cleaner is recommended but you do need to get the one

with lots of warnings all over it not the safe, environmentally

friendly ones. If that doesn't shift it try caustic soda.

[eek!]

Got the tools out to strip my "runner". I am lucky, it has hop up

bearings. I am also unlucky, the vintage shell, apart from the obvious

knocks and missing bits, has been sprayed in automotive paint. What is

the best way to remove it ?

Have tried

Soap and water, predicably useless,

T-Cut, very slow.

Petrol, dangerous

Gunk, as above.

Oven cleaner, useless.

Wire wool, slow and damaging.

Nail Varnish remover.

What now? Brake fluid.?

Suggestions appreciated.

Twoscoops,

Before you potentially destroy your polystyrene SRB body a

warning:  DO NOT USE PETROLEUM DISTILLATES on styrene (or natural/latex

rubber).

Looking at your list:

Don't use:--petrol, nail varnish remover (if acetone) (1)  The other chemicals, I'm not familiar.

Instead Try:  "Heavy Duty" oven cleaner (2), brake fluid (3), in my case warmed Simple Green. (1)

1.  Link: http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/159989.aspx

2.  Link: http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/170783.aspx

3.  Link: http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/92908.aspx

NOTE:  On my post regarding chemicals, I didn't mention a quick

test you can do at home regarding chemical compatibility with styrene

bodies.

QUICK HOME EXPERIMENT:  Obtain "styro-foam" (aerated polystyrene)

drinking cup.  Hold over appropriate catch basin.  Pour your

chemical into cup and wait.  If using petrol, WD-40, acetone,

paint thinner etc.  you'll likely get your answer within 10

seconds, (possibly less than 5).  (Let us know if you still wish to use it on your styrene shells.) []

Best,

[twoscoops]

The bodyshell is enjoying a long bath in that most disgusting product

called brake fluid. It stinks, and is so slimy, errrrr!! not enjoying

this bit of the restoriation. I intend to leave it in is bath for about

3 - 4 days, hopefully all the awful paint jobs its had over the year

will simply melt off.

Hey ho, off to try to find all the bits that are missing and damaged.

You lot never told me when they say "runner" that statement varies from olympic athlete to emphasymic asthmatic coffin dodger!!

Mines reasonable, but not currently great, still it's all good clean (?) fun.

Thanks for all your replies, great site.

[snshampton]

Why won't tamiya re-release the sand scorcher.

[Shodog]

Why won't tamiya re-release the sand scorcher.

Because it's kind of a lame car and it probably wouldn't sell very well.

[Badboy]

Because it's kind of a lame car and it probably wouldn't sell very well.

HOW DARE YOU SAY THAT ABOUT MY BEST FRIEND, SHODOG?!!

=)

[DJTheo]

The problem you will find is that the only motor that fits perfectly is the stock one.  The black motors require you to rotate the motor cover one set of holes which make the motor cover not fit properly. 

The first genearation Black Motors (no name, Sprint and Endurance) fit without modifications, at least in my version of gearboxes as they were sold also as official hop ups for it.

Cheers

[twoscoops]

OK, I bought the runner, have sourced most of the bust / missing

internals. I would like if possible to add some hop up's I've already

got steel bearings instead of the original brass bushes. I really like

some advice on, the motors. I seen some conflicting advice on the black

sport tuned motor, can this be fitted without modification. Secondly,

the big one, I'd like, as I'm sure we all would to fit a diff on the

back. I know that these are as rare as rocking horse odure, but if

anyone can supply me with a part number / photo I'd be very grateful,

and I can hang around ebay looking for one. TIA

Also, can I get repro body parts (lights, wipers, mirrors, door

handles) from somewhere, obviously these parts are the ones that are

the most easily destroyed, so sourcing originals is prohibitively

expensive. Thanks again.