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Posted

Went to play with the High Lift and lost all drive so it was time to strip it down[:'(] 

There is an upside, you do not have to totally unassemble the chassis to get the gearbox out[:D]

Quite a lot has to come off or be loosened (so the screws do not stick through the chassis), you do not even have to, totally, remove an axle! The gearbox can then be slid along the rails to the front, it might be even quicker to get it out the rear.

Total time for excavation of gearbox, 20 mins[:o]

Total time to find the problem, 2mins[:@]

The pinion screw in the brass output gear from the main box to the drop/transfer box had worked loose. Tamiya do not say to use threadlock here but I will next time. I said in a previous thread that it looks like a lot more threadlock could be used where not explicitly shown and I've proved myself right[:$]

I opted to open the main box for a precautioanry peek and all looks ok. I've put around 10 batteries through it and there are no shavings from shifting on the fly or the occasional grinding (I have not made up a shift gate yet). All I'll do is shove some more grease in before I put it all back together.

I will be deleting some of the extraneous bits on reassembly (false tank, radio switch holder and possibly the radio deck) so it will take a bit longer to put back together but I will be peeved if it takes me more than an hour to sort out.

Overall, looks like maintenance is not as daunting as we all feared[:D]

Guest sk8te-penguin
Posted

can you post a scan of the page of the manual that you are reffering to - to add threadlock. but put a ring around the step that requres threadlock but doesnt say...so we know what step your on about please

Posted

Well I feel better about my TLT based 3 speed now.. I have had a few teething problems and been fed up with stripping front mount off and dropping the prop shafts to then unscrew gearbox to waggle it out of chassis, but its only a 10minute job,

I too run a transfer box and found similar issues with it coming loose, even tho its not a high lift, any metal to metal screws should be threadlocked as they will vibrate loose.

Posted
Well I feel better about my TLT based 3 speed now.. I have had a few teething problems and been fed up with stripping front mount off and dropping the prop shafts to then unscrew gearbox to waggle it out of chassis, but its only a 10minute job,

I too run a transfer box and found similar issues with it coming loose, even tho its not a high lift, any metal to metal screws should be threadlocked as they will vibrate loose.

you made your tlt with a 3 speed?

Posted
can you post a scan of the page of the manual that you are reffering to - to add threadlock. but put a ring around the step that requres threadlock but doesnt say...so we know what step your on about please

 

I only looked at the manual once! It is the 2nd to last stage of gearbox assembly.

As BD says there are a lot of M3 screws in threaded holes or plain nuts which really ought to have a dab of threadlock on them to stop them coming loose.

On the SRB manuals ALL metal to metal joints are marked with threadlock, on the highlift it is used in the diff assemblies (and I think one other place). They give you a massive tube of the stuff so it's best to use it[;)]

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