control problem

[Virus]

took the TT01 out this morning problems straight away [!] []

turn left or right while standing still the car starts to reverse so being careful had a look nothing wrong all wiring safe an secure tryed again same thing happend so though i better try in forward. with a 14x3 and 1500 batt i get good speed from a 21 pinion well sumthing is wrong the car seems very slow but after a few 40 foot runs it bursts into life. while driving if i turn left or right and back of throttle the car stops dead ( its fullyball raced too)so shouldnt have any problems. i have a mrc330 cr esc made by futaba and think my brushes are worn too the motor is a orbital pro bb 14x3 i never had this problem with this setup in my TL01 untill i put it into the TT01 has anyone else had these sort of problems and could help me i have check for foriegn objects and regreased all ball joints too but it still happens. this link shows my setup and placement or reciver in TT01

http://groups.msn.com/msnMessengerMANIA/yo...s1.msnw?Page=18

thanx

Paul

[GPZ1000RX]

If you need new brushes then you need a comm skim as well. A 14X3 pulls a lot of current, so if things are not A1 then big sparks/ big interference is going to occur. Hot motors need frequent maintenance.

Hows the suppresion on the motor? The required 3 caps?

Looking at your pics, you've got a lot of power wiring flapping around there! and do I see a Tamiya connector there too? They certainly can't take the motor, that could be arcing!

[GPZ1000RX]

PS!

Have a look at "Help needed battery connectors" 2/6/04 12.44

and "Oh no not again" 3/6/04 09.40

Both on General discussions.

You should find a few tips there!

[Virus]

im sorry u lost me at the caps part( what are caps plz) the motor is as from new i have only used it afew times (25 times @ 15/20 min run times ) (normaly i use the one with the kits). yupz its a tamiya conector on my batterys/esc its all original i was told by LHS that they would be ok and wouldnt melt or loose conections. can i race with the standard motors u get with tamiya kits? as i have 2 of them and they are brand new. justed looked in the motor housing while motor runnin a few big sparks so think its had it brushes are very low too one the brush to the plus side is worn more than the other.

thanx

paul

[theMonster]

Virus,

there are 3 capacitors that need to be soldered onto the brushes and the + and - power connectors. These capacitors eliminate radio noise from the motor so that it doesn't screw up the receiver, which it sounds like is what is happening to you. Some motors have these pre-soldered on and some need to have them purchased and done by you. What they look like are three little pills with two wires coming out of the bottom that attach to the + and - terminals and brushes on your motor.[8D]

[Virus]

have looked and dont have any of these little diode thingys on my motor so will take it out. as 4 the standard motors u get with tamiya kits can i use my esc with it and will it make any diffrence by giving the standard motor better power torque ? i dont know much about motors and though the lasted 4 ever thanx for the info guys was never told i needed them little things and wasnt given them by the person i got the motor off [:I]

will i need these little caps/diodes if i use the motor i got with the TT01?

thanx

Paul

[theMonster]

Usually Tamiya motors which are 27T stock motors with closed endbells have them presoldered onto the motors. You should have no trouble running a stock 27T motor with any ESC. There are MANY motors out there that come with the wires and capacitors preinstalled on them, a good brand of motors that do is Trinity and a cheap brand of motor that does is the Venom Fireball series. Happy RCing!! [8D]

Oh, also at http://towerhobbies.com you can get a 3000mh NiMh battery for $18.99. I bought 2 a while back and they're real nice. Long run time, about 20-25 minutes, but they do lose their punch after about 15 minutes.

[theMonster]

One more thing, if you know how to solder, you can pick up those Capacitors for like 10 cents at your local hobby shop.

[GPZ1000RX]

If your motor has done that amount of running then it's certainly long over due a complete rebuild! Racing guys do a rebuild every meeting (about 30mins runtime)

Fail to do this for a few meetings and performance rapidly falls off and wear, current draw and interference multiply dramatically.

You also need to gear your car MUCH lower for this motor (smaller pinion and/or larger spur)

[Virus]

thanx guys i just put the standard 27turn in an still have the same problem but now i dont get reverse i think either my reciver is shot or esc so gonna have to leave them for a while till my pennys grow alittle think i'll shop around and find a transmiter reciver an esc. have an 8channel heli/aero transmitter but not sure what the law says bout using it in my cars in the uk.

thanx

paul

[GPZ1000RX]

If your aircraft radio gear is 35Mhz (it probably is) then it's not legal to use it in a car in the UK.

[Virus]

am sure its a 4omhz radio never mid i do like the look of them transmiters with a little wheel on will look for one of them. nope its a 35 band but been told cant use it by LHS its only for aircraft

thanx GPZ100orx

paul

[Virus]

me again i have got 3 caps now [] problem is i havent a clue where to solder them too. do these things get solder on from the plus wire to the brush same with the minus wire but where does the third one go i dont want too solder these on wrong and ruin everything. has anyone got a pic i could refer too please so i get this right my other motor has caps too but theres only 2 and they are fitted in a totaly diffrent way so i am alittle confused

thanx for the help

Paul

[GPZ1000RX]

One from +pos to -neg.

One from +pos to motor case.

One from -neg to motor case.

[Virus]

i have given up will pop into my LHS an get them to solder the things on. looks like i would have to remove some of the nice lookin sitcker on the motor to solder theses caps on.

thanx

Paul