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chrisdev01

Super Champ Restoration Project

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Hello fello Vintage Geeks.

The three SRBs I own include a new built Rough Rider, a lightly used Sand Scorcher (which only required minor details), and a NIB Rough Rider.

So, I have no experience doing a complete restoration.

 Last week I aquired a complete but VERY POOR Super Champ that I plan to restore.

 So, my questions are:

  1) What methods/chemicals should be used to restore the cast aluminum (gear box, uprights)?

  2) What methods/chemicals should be used to restore the fiberglass chassis and radio tray?

  3) What methods/chemicals should be used to remove paint from an original Super Champ body?

4) Should I paint or polish the body? If polish, how is this accomplished?

Many Thanks!

Chris in Houston, Texas

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1) What methods/chemicals should be used to restore the cast aluminum (gear box, uprights)?

Jasco Metal etch will clean the metal parts right up. 

0701.gif

 http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm

Be careful as it's caustic and if you leave them in too long it will dull them.

 2) What methods/chemicals should be used to restore the fiberglass chassis and radio tray?

If it's discolored there is not much you can do.  You can however sand the scratches with 1000 grit paper then polish it up with automotive polish.

3) What methods/chemicals should be used to remove paint from an original Super Champ body?

I have found heavy duty Easy Off oven Cleaner works best for me.  http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...4664&sid=34  Brake Fluid and Castrol superclean also work.

4) Should I paint or polish the body? If polish, how is this accomplished?

If it's been painted the plastic will not look right.  You would be better off priming and painting the color of your choice.   I painted mine Telefonica blue and am very happy with it.

img34_09062003174745_1.jpg

 

 

 

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Guest DImblum

Shodog,

What technique did you use to smooth and polish the CulTech KC's? I have a set and need some help smoothing them out. Thanks. 

 

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I did a complete restoration of my Super Champ, and I chose not to use

any chemicals on the aluminum castings.  I cleaned them up with

some simple green and hot water, scrubbing with a toothbrush, then

took them out to the workbench and used wire brushes, and a bench

grinder wire wheel, and got them all shined up.

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Shodog,

What technique did you use to smooth and polish the CulTech KC's? I have a set and need some help smoothing them out. Thanks. 

I didn't use anything to sand them, i just hit them with my bench grinder mounted buffing wheel and jewelers rouge then Mothers mag wheel polish.  To hold them steady, I use a frog front suspension pin screwed into the bottom of the light as a handle. 

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I did a complete restoration of my Super Champ, and I chose not to use any chemicals on the aluminum castings.  I cleaned them up with some simple green and hot water, scrubbing with a toothbrush, then took them out to the workbench and used wire brushes, and a bench grinder wire wheel, and got them all shined up.

The metal etch will clean up the castings and make them look like new.  wire brushes and a bench grinder wire wheel will modify the look of the surface

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Guest DImblum
Shodog,

What technique did you use to smooth and polish the CulTech KC's? I have a set and need some help smoothing them out. Thanks. 

I didn't use anything to sand them, i just hit them with my bench grinder mounted buffing wheel and jewelers rouge then Mothers mag wheel polish.  To hold them steady, I use a frog front suspension pin screwed into the bottom of the light as a handle. 

Shodog,

Thanks for the tip. I just got that chrome finish with a few rubbings of my Weiman Metal Polish (night and day difference). They still have a slight ridge like effect along the backing, which I guess is where the buffing wheel comes in handy to smooth the surface a little. [H] 

 

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Thanks for the tip. I just got that chrome finish with a few rubbings of my Weiman Metal Polish (night and day difference). They still have a slight ridge like effect along the backing, which I guess is where the buffing wheel comes in handy to smooth the surface a little. [H] 

You're right, the buffing wheel will take a bit of the material off which will give you that ultra smooth finish.  If you do any amount of polishing, you should invest in a cheap ginder ~$40 and a ~$7 buffing wheel.

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I know some may not have access to these, but I used a blast cabinet with glass beads for my aluminum parts and baking soda for the body.  Be sure to rinse the gearcase with lacquer thinner and blow out with compressed air before reassembly.

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