Dyna Storm club racer - advice wanted

[tobyd 0]

Hi,

I'm thinking of starting club racing at Batley next year - low key and on a budget - and think I'll fly the Tamiya flag. Decided to run a Dyna Storm

and I'm looking for some advice to make the car run better but without spending muchos money.This will be my first time racing.

Bought an almost complete car from Tamichael here at Tamiyaclub and am looking to get it up and running over xmas and into Jan. Would love to hear any advice or experiences of running a Dyna Storm indoor or outdoor that may help.

Cheers

Toby 

[Guest sk8te-penguin]

first things first - get a set of schumacher mini spikes for out door and mini pins for indoor - get the yellow ones as these wear less than green ones

hope this helps

[Singapore_959 18]

Hi Toby,

 

good choice!  [] []   Do a search on the vintage forum for my Dyna Storm races again threads - there are 3 - and that should help you out.

 Not alot to do except get out and develop your driving and have a blast! [Y] [au]

 

1. Ditch the shocks for some adjustables, cheap are fine! just get the adjustable kind.

2. Swap the rear tires for whats suitable.  On carpet go for mini pine spikes. I use the standard fronts and despite the laughs they do fine.

3. Set rear slightly hard, and front full soft.

4. You can play with damper oil types, slipper and diff settings as you get more time on track.

5. Thread lock the front damper stay base bolts, the rear chassis to arms hinge screws (all four), and I have to also TL the rear wheel bolts on twisty track layouts. Check all screws are still firmly on after each heat/race!

 

Personally I just adjust the shocks, stiffened the diff and I am off! and out there having a blast. Buggy races are great becuase alot of it is just avoiding the crashes!

 

The main thing though is driving style - brakes, no brakes, blipping or full throttle etc. Find your style.

Enjoy and post up picts and how you go! [Y] [au]

[DJTheo 2]

1. Ditch the shocks for some adjustables, cheap are fine! just get the adjustable kind.

What are you talking about, Tamiya alu shocks are some of the finest around. What do you mean with adjustables? Adjustable pre-load with a thread? This you can do with the spacers, also other high-end Buggies like Asso are like this, also its not the same good as using different springs as it doesn't change their stiffness, just their operation point.

Cheers 

[secretsg 0]

Some new tires. Those stock ones are no good compared to what's available today. Lunsford Turnbuckles, and a good kimborough servo saver with a decent metal geared servo.

[tobyd 0]

Just been to the indoor club race at Batley. Didn't see any other Tamiyas up there so I'll be in a minority of one.

Think I'll need luck!! 

[Tipsy 7]

I might have to pop over to Batley and take a look at the offroad racing. I used to race there in the mid '80s. When do they race, and is it offroad or onroad? The did use the track at Spenborough for offroad?

[tobyd 0]

This is the website of the club http://www.batleybuggyclub.co.uk/info.html . They are racing indoor at the Batley Tennis and Sports centre and move outdoor in May time.

[Singapore_959 18]

It's even more fun if you are the only Tamiya there I feel! Fly the flag and have a great time!  [] []

No, they are a poor backward step of  Tamiya. []   The older grey "Hop Up" shocks at least had an adjustable collar (small philips head screw). See them on any Egress.  

Slip on collars are joke for buggy racing -

[*]Buggy shocks are exposed (unlike in touring cars) and contact happens frequently. Thus collars can and do come off during races.

[*]With stiffer springs the collars frequently bulge, esp if two are used, and slip off or the spring slips under the lower collar

[*]Adjustables are much more dependable as they are made of metal and offer tiny amounts of adjustablility.

 

Yes the alu is good qality [] and the internals are very friction minimising, [Y] but they should have had a thread on the outside from day one.  The newer tamiya ones do. [H]  Also I have had two incidents of the shock exploding because the lower cap/hole where the pistons enteres the damper unscrewed during racing. Once was excusable, twice means the bin. I dont want to waste my precious 7/5 min track times on shock failures.  I love Tamiya but the older grey shocks, and the newer threaded ones are both much better! [au]

[tobyd 0]

What would it run like with a Dyna Tech 02 fitted?  Too Much?

[Singapore_959 18]

 

It will be fine.

Remember the stock pink motor it came with is extremely fast - 14 turn.   [au]

[terry.sc 16]

Motor wise I would suggest an Orion V2 Element 19 turn as the perfect motor to start with if they run to modified rules. Good power and won't need rebuilding often. Certainly don't bother with a Tamiya motor. The Dynatech will be outclassed by modern motors and make the car undriveable if you are just starting racing, a milder motor will be faster. Once you are used to racing I would suggest finding out what motor is the most popular at the club and getting one of those, there is a very good reason they are the most popular, they are the fastest for that particular track.

You will need to change tyres, again see what works at the club and get a set of those. What works on one track will not necessarily work on another similar surface.

 

The Dynastorm should be fine to start with, if you get into it I would suggest upgrading to an Associated B4 though. Stiffer, lighter, more capable with lots of setup help and everyone else will have spares to help you out if you break something. The Dynastorm wasn't competitive when new so will be even more off the pace today.

The Dynastorm is a good car as standard, you don't need to upgrade anything as there isn't anything to upgrade.

Slip on collars are joke for buggy racing -

[*]Buggy shocks are exposed (unlike in touring cars) and contact happens frequently. Thus collars can and do come off during races.

[*]With stiffer springs the collars frequently bulge, esp if two are used, and slip off or the spring slips under the lower collar

[*]Adjustables are much more dependable as they are made of metal and offer tiny amounts of adjustablility.

 

The standard shocks are perfect and clip on spacers are used on just about every buggy as they are a reliable and accurate way adjusting ride height. To get the same accuracy with threaded shocks you need a vernier caliper to measure how far the threaded adjuster is down the shocks.

Contact shouldn't happen between cars, at a club like Batley cars are set off at intervals and the large track means you will be away from most of the cars. Having had many racing accidents over the years I can't recall losing spacers. I do know the old style clamps would happily slip up the shocks if the shock wasn't clean and threaded shocks need to be kept clean if you want to be able to adjust them easily. There is no easy way to adjust threaded shocks without having anything to measure them accurately each time you adjust them. Clip on spacers go down to 1mm thick, I can't see you ever needing to adjust ride height less than 1mm. If the spacers are being compressed you are heavily preloading the springs, you will get better handling by changing to a stiffer spring and using the spacers just to adjust the ride height.

 

 

[Z 0]

The Dynastorm should be fine to start with,

if you get into it I would suggest upgrading to an Associated B4

though. Stiffer, lighter, more capable with lots of setup help and

everyone else will have spares to help you out if you break something.

The Dynastorm wasn't competitive when new so will be even more off the

pace today.

 

So the B4 is a little better

than the Dyna Storm; so what! Race the Tamiya nameplate with pride,

even if it means putting in a little extra time in the pits to stay

competitive! Don't let Terry.sc poison your mind with evil Team

Associated thoughts[]!

[DJTheo 2]

Can only agree with what Terry.sc said, being a Tamiya fanatic also thought the DS was a high end performer till I got a B4, its so effortless to drive in comparison, so much "point and shoot", like a good 4WD car! [H]

Cheers 

[Singapore_959 18]

[au]

No question the asso is a better car.  Tamyia has never made really top end cars, the 501 is a step in the right direction tho.

 Just go an have fun with what you've got is my motto, unless everyone is very good at your race series it's unlikely you'd be last and bored/frustrated with the DS. BTW, 'point and shoot' is what kills 4wd for me - theoretically. I am always tempted by a 4wd - like your egress! - but I enjoy trying to beat 4wds with my 2wd.

 

Re the collars, yes a measuring device is usu required. Experienced people have calipers. I have a 15cm school ruler and my eyes.... [] [] []

I am just out to have fun. Measuring calipers make a good idea for a Christmas present now that it is mentioned tho!! []

 

It's just my feeling, and collars may work fine for you. They just seem like a **** way to the accomplish the task to me, and they do drop out sometimes. I have picked them off tracks myself. Find ot what works best for you.

Above all, get out and have fun! []

 

[tobyd 0]

Going to stick racing the Dyna Storm even though I know its not the best car for the job - I'm not the best driver!![] Looking to have some fun and as all my spares etc are for Tamiya it doesn't make sense to start building up a new lot of spares. Also like to be a bit different so will like to run something different.

Singapore you may want to have a run with the Egress if you purchase it!? Drop me an email and let me know.

 

 

 

[tobyd 0]

Looking to get another Dyna Storm as well as the car I bought from Tamichael. I have got some cars in my showroom I would trade/part ex.

Anyone with any spare parts going cheap (or free :-) ) I may be interested.

Thanks Toby 

[Singapore_959 18]

 

I have raced without spares all this year! It's tempting fate to carry spares! hahaha!

 

[tobyd 0]

You've not seen me drive!!

[terry.sc 16]

So the B4 is a little better

than the Dyna Storm; so what! Race the Tamiya nameplate with pride,

even if it means putting in a little extra time in the pits to stay

competitive! Don't let Terry.sc poison your mind with evil Team

Associated thoughts[]!

I guess you haven't drove a B4 then. The B4 makes the B3 uncompetitive, never mind older buggies. No matter how much time you spend on it a box standard B4 will easily beat a Dyna Storm every time. There is also the problem of running a modern race motor (currently 8 or 9 turns!) through the Dyna Storm gearbox without breaking it. My loyalty is always with the best equipment for the job, not with any particular make (although I used to race an awful lot of Kyoshos[])

Toby

As I said above if you really get into racing (and not before!) no matter how loyal you feel to the Tamiya brand everyone else will buy whatever is the fastest. Most racers run a B4 because that is the fastest and once you learn to drive the car without crashing and want to upgrade your equipment I would consider upgrading the car to a B4. You will then find you will run a lot faster with the same electrics as the car is so much easier to drive, with the advantage spares are readily available for when you break it. Other racers will also know exactly which parts break, so there will usually be someone at the track with spare parts to help you out. If you break the Dyna Storm you will be sidelined until you find the spares.

[tobyd 0]

You're probably right Terry. If I get half decent I may upgrade to something more competitive and something I would be able to get advice from others racers about.

While learning I wish to keep the costs down. Having spoken to one of the club senior members he suggested that indoors, with somthing like a 19 turn fitted I may do OK if I keep my nose clean. Apparently some have too much speed and too little control - I hope to not be in that group!!

The club has an 'anything goes' policy with regards to modification with interclub racing as long as you stick to the 1/10 scale!

We'll have to see how it goes. 

[fyra89 0]

Racing is 90% driver, 5% equipment, and 5% luck.  When you are starting off the "equipment" portion is largely about not breaking parts, and having replacements handy when you do.  Nothing is more frustrating than having to sit out an entire night's racing because you broke something in the first heat.

[Z 0]

So the B4 is a little better

than the Dyna Storm; so what! Race the Tamiya nameplate with pride,

even if it means putting in a little extra time in the pits to stay

competitive! Don't let Terry.sc poison your mind with evil Team

Associated thoughts[]!

I guess you haven't drove a B4 then.

You're

right, I haven't. I guess that could be why I find it hard to believe

that a car so similar in chassis layout to the Dyna Storm could have

such an edge on it. I'm probably just inexperienced.

My

loyalty is always with the best equipment for the job, not with any

particular make (although I used to race an awful lot of Kyoshos[])

[]That's just flat out heresy on this club[]! 

 

[tobyd 0]

Is the pink Acto of the re-release the same as the Acto power motor of 1992?

sable voltage: 7,2 - 8,4V

Torque at best efficiency: 450g-cm (7,2V)

R.P.M. at best efficiency: 25.800rpm (7,2V)

Current drain at best efficiency: 30A

(7,2V)

Best efficiency: 54% (7,2V)

Turns: 14 double - 0,75mm

Just bought a re-release Dyna that I'll use for the racer that has the pink motor. 

 

[terry.sc 16]

I guess that could be why I find it hard to believe

that a car so similar in chassis layout to the Dyna Storm could have

such an edge on it. I'm probably just inexperienced.

There's ten years extra development in the B4 and there are lots of differences between them. The only similarity is the main layout.

My

loyalty is always with the best equipment for the job, not with any

particular make (although I used to race an awful lot of Kyoshos[])

[]That's just flat out heresy on this club[]! 

 

Not at all, the club was set up as a resource for collectors of vintage cars of all makes. If Chris had collected Kyoshos it would be known as Kyoshoclub[][]