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Posted

Well after finally being able to road test my bessy today I noticed a few things awry with her handling, first off she bounced quite a bit on hard acceleration and then understeered quite severly....

 I've stiffened up the front dampers and left the rear quite soft and also replaced the rear anti roll bar with a softer unit.....is this the right thing to do?

I've also heard changing the toe-in on both the front a rear helps quite a bit but can't remember whether it was toe-in on the front and toe-out on the rear or visa versa

 Can anybody shed any light on how to improve her handling somewhat?

Posted
Wrong way around mate, if it's understeering you want to soften the front, and/or fit a STIFFER rear stabiliser :D

 

Ah....cheers, will try that......

Posted
Wrong way around mate, if it's understeering you want to soften the front, and/or fit a STIFFER rear stabiliser :D

 

Right, tried that and it did seem to improve steering response but it still bounces quite a bit, any ideas?

 And can anyone clear up the toe-in toe-out settings?

Posted

lol thats what mike likes you see - A car thats all over the place hence his accidents

getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img12792_04022007154648_1.jpg 

what I would recormend is to dial out the neutral cambre at the rear and lower it compared the front.

For the Front use Toe out as this makes a much more aggressive amount of turn in tho it will wander in a straight line, Toe in is used for straight line stability tho it will give reduced turn in,

Before we go further with set ups what kind of track are you running upon? an open style circult or street areas like a tarmac rally with sharp hairpin corners and undulating surfaces.

Best regards Ryck  

Posted

Here's a couple hints (Note: these are based on a severely understeering FF):

Front Toe in: some straightline drag, a bit irresponsive, but once you find a line in the corner it'll hold true.

Front Toe out: some wandering on straight, more initial steering response, but tend to produce understeer mid-corner.

Rear Toe in: Directionally stable, but if too much it'll hamper steering

Rear Toe out: rarely used, but when coupled to a slight front toe in the chassis is on rail in corners.

BTW, what has been fitted on the chassis?

Posted

 Cheers for all the info guys, really appreciated. I think I've got the damper set up so so its just still a wee bit unresponsive round corners. I'm gonna change the camber and adjust the toe in on the front (I don't seem to be able to adjust the rear toe-in, at this stage) and keep trying different permeatations.....

Before we go further with set ups what kind of track are you running upon? an open style circult or street areas like a tarmac rally with sharp hairpin corners and undulating surfaces.

I'm running at the moment on an open space of tarmac, I haven't put it on any kind of defined track yet as I want to get it handling right before I do that....

BTW, what has been fitted on the chassis?

Venom Fireball 21d Motor

Hitec HP-2RNB Receiver

Mtroniks Viper ECO20 Electronic Speed Controller

Futaba Steering Servo

Complete Ball Bearing Set

Aluminium Propeller Shaft

Aluminium Motor Heat sink

Metal Motor Mount

Carbon Upper Frame

Aluminium Bumper Stopper

Adjustable Upper Arm Set

Stabilizer Set (Front and Rear)

GPM Oil Dampers

Adjustable Steering Arms

Posted

Personally speaking I would not run the anti-roll bars for street use, they only help on high-grip smooth surfaces.

The GPM dampers are a bit of an unknown quantity to me, I would be tempted to run Tamiya dampers instead.

Camber should be set for even tyre wear, probably 1 degree negative all round to start with.

Toe-in at the front should be straight ahead or maybe a degree of toe-out.

The TT-01 is prone to understeer, this makes it safe to drive. Biggest difference you can make is tyres, kit ones are not particularly grippy. Otherwise try running a slighty stiffer suspension setting at the rear. Oh, and lift off or use the brakes, no car will corner if you go into it too fast.

If the car continues to skip on the bumps with the bars removed you may need a softer spring/damper setup.

Posted

Cheers for the replys guys, I have got it set up at the moment to run reasonably well, I seriously need to replace the tyres as I'm not sure the previous owner added inserts so I think its bouncing around on flats...

 

Mr Snake, thats one fine lookig TT-01 you have there, I'm interedsted in the steering setup, I've noticed there is an unhealthy amount of play in the plasticx units so i will be looking to replace.....any advice?

Posted

yea best thing i evey did is GPM Alloy complete Tie Rod Set found on ebay at 130046062641 (thou buy two sets as i have broke one, so now have a spaer set as well) and also fit  GPM Alloy Steering Assembly  found again on ebay at 330031368372! the tie rod set tamiya do one as well! but £4 posted from hong kong or were ever for the gpm one cant be bad!

i also run slight toe in on the front, and 2deg camper rear, 1 deg front, duno if this helps, cheers martyn

Posted

My two cents on GPM (are we wandering off-topic here?): I've bought lots of alloy parts from them (never shocks) and they were all great. The only time I ever had an issue was once I had to file an alloy c-hub a tiny bit to fit an alloy arm. Otherwise, I am impressed with their quality. They typically include plenty of hardware with their parts. My alloy arm set even included a full set of hingepins+clips and two sets of replaceable bushings for the pins to ride in! Not to mention their c-hubs come with both bearings and bushings for the kingpins, and all their parts come with lots of shims to fix any slop.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Hello again everybody......not been on for a while, I've been delivering aid in Africa but thats another story....

Finally managed to get the parts I needed to get my TT-01 back on the road after a minor collision in Tesco's car park and I also managed to upgrade a few parts......

I added a ball diff at the rear, a front one way unit at the front, changed the entire steering assembly to adonised tamiya racing parts, installed universal joints at the rear ( for some reason I only 1 set so will need to upgrade the front at some point.....I also changed the spur and pinion gear (would a 22t pinion and 58t spur ve the weapon of choice with my motor?).......oh and changed the the body clips and wheel nuts to snazzy adonised blue items....which is nice.....

I went out the other with it and was blown away by the difference....it ran like a dream but the problem now was that it was missing a screw on the steering servo and. although with the old setup it never really caused a problem, within the space of 10 or so minutes it had disengaged half a dozen times......so went on eBay and bought a spare parts bag with the necessary screw.....

Photos coming soon......as soon as the screw gets here......

So far then.....it stands at....

Venom Fireball 21d Motor

Hitec HP-2RNB Receiver

Mtroniks Viper ECO20 Electronic Speed Controller

Futaba Steering Servo

7.2v NiMH 4300mAh Rechargeable Battery

Ball Bearing Set

Aluminium Propeller Shaft

Aluminium Motor Heat Sink

Metal Motor Mount

Carbon Upper Frame

Toe-In Rear Uprights

Aluminium Bumper Stopper

Turnbuckle Tie-Rod Set

Adjustable Upper Arm Set

Stabilizer Set (Front and Rear)

GPM Oil Dampers

Ball Differential Set

Aluminium Racing Steering Set

Aluminiun Steering Link

4mm Aluminum Flange Lock Nuts (Blue)...lol

Lightweight Differential Ball Set

22T & 23T AV Pinion Gear Set

Spur Gear Set (55T/58T)

Ball Diff Cup Joint

Universal Shaft (Rear)

I plan to upgrade the front shafts for universal jobbies, perhaps change the motor and get a new set of wheels and slicks......oh and a new shell....

Any hints tips or suggestions?!?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, slight update.......I've started to tidy up the wiring by soldering the ESC directly to the motor and curling the servo wires......I still need to sort the Deans connectors and shorten the steering servo cable though......

DSC03862.jpg

Looks a lot better don't you think......

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