LUNCHBOX WHEELIES?!?!?!?!?

[freak]

Hi as you can tell i have a lunchbox (kickass!!!) and when i do a wheelie it last like 3 seconds???

is there any way to make a dead long wheelie?

cheers cal

[jozza]

If you really want it to wheely for longer, try putting weights on the back of the chassis, starting with something like a 9 volt battery. As the back of the chassis is so high, this should help to keep the front of the truck in the air longer.

[steviedee]

you could try putting a spare 7.2v battery on them panel at the back of the chassis this way it wheelies all the time lol

it is good fun

steve

[kingeddie]

try some small blue pills, work for me every time[]

[Rusty2903]

try some small blue pills, work for me every time[]

Surely you should swallow them eddie [^o)]

[kingeddie]

oh, lunchbox, sorry thought you said willy, wild willy of course, think the pills should still help keep it up though[]

[Shodog]

As others have said, placing weight on the rear battery tray would work.  Another way would be the third shock mod.  The easiest way I think is to replace the motor with something hotter.  I have a 13 turn in my pumpkin and I can't keep the front wheels on the ground. 

[Lonestar]

Although the body on mine is not done yet, I couldn't resist trying out the chassis. With full bearings, a carefully broken in 540SH, 3300's and the box 101BK, and without a body, I was disappointed to see that the thing wouldn't pop wheelies... I assume there will be plenty once the body is on and hence the GC gets much higher... but for the moment, without a body, nada.

Shodog, what pinion do you use with a 13T - any tamiya ref as the pinion is kind of "different" (read much longer) on the 'Box? Thanks!

Cheers 

Paul

[Shodog]

I couldn't resist trying out the chassis. With .....the box 101BK, and without a body, I was disappointed to see that the thing wouldn't pop wheelies... Shodog, what pinion do you use with a 13T - any tamiya ref as the pinion is kind of "different" (read much longer) on the 'Box? Thanks!

I use the standard 10 tooth pinion.  The problem you might be having is that the 101BK doesn't put out enough amperage to get that motor going in a hurry.  when I was running mine with a Novak XRS, I was dissapointed.  I found out that the esc only put out 60 amps which is horribly low.  Once I changed out the esc with a spare cyclone, the performance was ballistic.

[Lonestar]

very fair - thanks for pointing that out.

Paul

[sosidge]

Glue the tyres too, the more use your Lunchbox has the more the tyres start to slip on the wheels.

[3doorpete]

I have the standard speed controller and a sport tuned Tamiya motor with full ball bearings in mine and it will wheelie fantastically. In fact on a grippy surface if I punch the throttle, it'll go over the top of the wheelie bar and sit vertical with the wheels in the air. I do have and LED light kit with the 9V battery mounted to the back of the roof inside the shell.

[Mad Ax]

My pumpkin wheelies very easily even with a lexan shell on.

I

did begin designing a mod to hold the battery under the rear tray, with

was the COG is way back and it will wheelie with just the lightest

throttle movement.  The problem is that it spent most of its time

upside down, as the stock wheelie bar is rubbish.

I was going to

make a new wheelie bar similar to the HPI Wheely King, but never got

around to it.  My plan was to be able to carefully balance my

throttle control so that I can maintain a wheelie along a smooth

straight with neither the front wheels nor the wheelie bar touching the

ground.

I've also been practicing this with my TXT - back it up

slowly, then punching forward to lift the wheels.  With careful

control it will sit on its back wheels for a few seconds before

dropping down.  In theory, it should be possible to hold it up

indefinately - although whether anyone has the skills to do this is

debatable...  

[kingeddie]

@ Max ad, devilsoms TXT was doing awsome wheelies at clumber last sun, a good 50 yards long, think he said its running 23 turn stock motors, was very quick though

[Lonestar]

Allright, sounds like the speedo is the culprit indeed. After fitting the car with real oil shocks, a P2K stocker with some gutsy torque, and some ex-3300 race elements, the car will do weelies for a few seconds, but only when going from a stand still. Mid range, the front wheels won't lift off the ground... the thing is ridiculously fast in straight line though, especially compared to when fitted with the mabuchi, and the driving is kind of hairy at high speed. My task for today - drop in a manlier esc in there, and see what happens. I want to be able to do wheelies also from mid throtthle, like I do with my Kyosho trail blazer (where, granted, the pack sits above the rear axle and the thing is just plain uncontrollable [] ). If indeed with the other esc I can pop wheelies at ease, well then I know I can start spending more money on esc's again...

 

Paul

[Lonestar]

All right - after fiddling with my VLB all afternoon, here's the story. The better (although still "budget") ESC, a Moped V16R (which I highly recommend as amazing value for money), didn't really transfigure the car's behavior, I barely saw any change. The car would wheelie easily from a standstill or crawling speed, but not mid rpm range. I then put the 101BK back, however this time I positioned it above the rear axle. The VLB then started going "rampante" (think Ferrari badge) easier, but not as much as I'd like. Then I fitted the front chassis stiffener (see tutorial section), which as expected didn't change anything, then the rear ones... again, not much of a difference, as the stiffeners didn't really take the GC up. I then started adding some weight at the top rear... and slowly the car started wheelying much easier - at 40g, it is closer to what I wanted, but I had to stop the experiment due to a strong hail storm hitting the area! I believe I will keep increasing weight later on, and given how the car squats on the rear when mashing the throttle, I suspect the third shock mod should help with reducing mass transfer on throttle, ie help "pivot" and go weeeeeeee!!! will keep you guys posted

Configuration:

- Real double BB servo + real servo saver upfront (heavy up front)

- Home made GP3300 stick pack with Deans 3.0 battery bars (heavy down middle) and ultra plugs

- Old Airtronics rx that came with the Rival Tx (heavy)

- Light kit up front

- P2K motor

- Full BB

- front and rear stiffeners (thanks for the tips guys)

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

I suspect the third shock mod should help with reducing mass transfer on throttle, ie help "pivot" and go weeeeeeee!!! will keep you guys posted

Configuration:

- Real double BB servo + real servo saver upfront (heavy up front)

- Home made GP3300 stick pack with Deans 3.0 battery bars (heavy down middle) and ultra plugs

- Old Airtronics rx that came with the Rival Tx (heavy)

- Light kit up front

- P2K motor

- Full BB

- front and rear stiffeners (thanks for the tips guys)

The 3rd shock mod will make a fair bit of difference. Use a fairly hard shock for the best effect.  

[Lonestar]

That's the next mod on the list indeed as it makes a lot of sense from a mechanical standpoint - Also forgot to mention the car has four oil shocks (hence the chassis stiffeners). Will let you guys know how the third shock mod changes the car's handling (bif time, I hope).

Cheers

Paul