Battery recommendation needed

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16]

Hey everyone.

Basicly, my TXT-1 has killed a brand new LRP nicad, so i'm after some suggestions as to what batteries would best suit my monster?

I'm running twin esc's so i'll need two packs. The problem is they sit side by side in the battery tray so i need some cells that can take the heat. I've even thought of fitting cooling fans above the battery tray, but i dont want to add more weight to the chassis!

I've only ever used nicads, so do other types of batteries withstand punishment better? I dont want to buy another pair only to ruin one a few runs later.  [] I'd also like to be able to charge them with my delta peak charger.

Any ideas welcome []

 

[neo 0]

What was the capacity of the cells that were burnt out?

 

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16]

It was a 2200 mha 7.2 volt stick pack. I'd used it several times after trickle charging. Then used it in the twin battery txt-1 along with an identical pack that had been charged and used exactly the same.

I think 1 cell is dead, as it heats up rapidly when attempting to charge it. It refuses to charge or power anything. I could rip the case open to check the soldering but i'm pretty certain that a cell has caused the problem.

 

[The soldier bug 1]

My suggestion is to go out and get a 3000 MAH NIMH battery from "Venom" these are fairly inexpensive but last long and provide twice the performance of any old nicad.[]

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16]

Cheers! I may also take any shrink wrap covering off the packs to help some air get to the cells. Good idea?

[The soldier bug 1]

Great idea! Just make sure not to get any grime or moisture inside of the battery.

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16]

Great stuff. Off to my lhs tomorrow to get some new batteries []

[Lonestar 1]

The most reliable NiMH battery released was the second generation GP3300 imho... they are hard to kill, really, and extremely resilient if you abuse them. Avoid 3700 as they are less robust. In general, also avoid non-mainstream cells from obscure sourcing... ie stick to sanyo, GP, intellect, and that's pretty much it. These are the only ones the die-hard racers use, and that's for a reason []

If heat is an issue, my advice to you is to assemble your own side-by-side packs or have them assembled rather than using ready-made stick packs. The shring/tube wrap is a killer when it comes to heat. I would happily recommend ProMatch racing as a top-notch provider of excellent sets made from good cells, they even have an assembly process for you; price is slightly more than a cheapo stick pack but quality is in a different league.

Last but not leat, if you have the cash, start thinking about Lipos... no heat, consistent performance, no memory effect... great technical solution if you are willing to think out of the box...

Cheers

Paul

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16]

Cheers paul, thats some great information!

Lipos do look tempting, i may have to look into those some more. [] 

I didn't get down to my local model shop today (my real cars stuck at the ford dealers garage [:'(]) so i've been playing with my TNX instead - i dont need posh batteries for that []