RE-RE Frog parts in Monster Beetle

[Danbox]

I recently picked up a Monster Beetle from my local hobby shop, and I want to make it a (light) runner, but I'm not sure which parts I will need to upgrade. Is the diff the same, as well as the large and small bevel gears? Is it just a matter of changing the gearbox and axle joints as well as the drive shafts?

Thanks for any info!

Dan 

[HunterZero]

Yes, the differential bevel gears, diff spur gear and driveshafts from the re-re Frog will drop right into a Monster Beetle. The spur gear in the monster beetle is 52 teeth, and the Frog comes with one, but you need to use the small Monster Beetle pinion or it'll be overgeared with the big tires.

- James

[Danbox]

So I have to use the new Diff spur and bevels as well as the driveshafts, etc?

Thanks! 

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

So I have to use the new Diff spur and bevels as well as the driveshafts, etc?

Thanks! 

 

You would need the drive cups, axels and driveshafts - I'm not 100% sure whether these will combine with the original monster beetle bevel gears.

Although the re re frog drive shafts are going to be more durable than the old hex design, there is nothing wrong with using hex drive shafts in a runner monster beetle.

The original shafts last ages if you grease them well and dont try pulling wheelies all the time.

Lower turn motors are what kill the old drive assembly, stick with the silver can or a tame motor and you'd have no trouble [] 

[Danbox]

I ran it once with a silver can and there was some crunching. I was hoping to make it as close to bulletproof as possible. When I took apart the gearbox the shafts were well lubricated, although the diff was sort of pastey(?) I'm not sure if this is old dried grease or an attempt at locking it.

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

I ran it once with a silver can and there was some crunching. I was hoping to make it as close to bulletproof as possible. When I took apart the gearbox the shafts were well lubricated, although the diff was sort of pastey(?) I'm not sure if this is old dried grease or an attempt at locking it.

Sounds like the diff is worn out.

Replace it with re re frog parts, and you may aswell add the new driveshafts too.

It may also be worth replacing the aluminium gearbox side plates - as these bend outwards causing the diff to seperate. If yours are not worn where the suspension arm pivot hole is, then make sure they are not bent - as this causes the crunching sound too. You can flattern them carefully with a hammer and some wood [] 

[Danbox]

The teeth actually looked OK, but I probably should replace everything. I'm starting to wonder if I should just sell it LOL. Thanks for the advice.

 

Dan 

[HunterZero]

Crunching that gets worse when turning the car is a worn diff skipping. Replacing all the bevel gears will work, or you can try shimming the diff with 5mm shims. You may find that the aluminium side plates of the gearbox have bowed outwards, so shimming may still be needed.

- James

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

The teeth actually looked OK, but I probably should replace everything. I'm starting to wonder if I should just sell it LOL. Thanks for the advice.

 

Dan 

No way dude dont sell it! []

The teeth usually look ok, that is untill you compare them with new ones. The ends of the teeth round off eventually, they still look nice but are to worn to work properly.

I replaced the diff in my old runner beetle 2 years ago, and it still works great. Its got a standard motor and a mechanical speed control - so its always flat out. Like i said, the only things that kill the gears are fast motors and wheelies. [] 

[Danbox]

This is a little off topic, but I have Lunchbox wheels/tires on the MB at the moment(display) and it looks like I probably can't run it with these. The offset looks too narrow, like it could foul the steering. What do you guys think?

 

Thanks! 

[Danbox]

Would a sports tuned or Super Stock be too fast?