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My first Nitro rebuild, a TR-15T. Stripped the carb last night

26c9de61-936b-4a55-b414-3d454220cb28.jpg

Just need to clean it and rebuild now :unsure:

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Spent a few days using the Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner on the bleeds on my Mits Evo VI shell. After using the cleaner, knife and wood sticks to scrape away as much paint as i could I still had some arears that had etched into the plastic and wouldn't budge. I even tried polish to clean up but it was as good as it was gonna get so I fitted the window masks and hit it with the red body paint. This time I made sure it was well mixed and warmed up before spraying with many light dusting coats instead of heavy ones.

It came out better than I expected 😉

ADE007EB-4235-4D5C-8E8A-23B218B524DF_zps

4861389F-0BA6-41AA-8897-103C948EBC1B_zps

You can see the areas that etched into the plastic and I couldn't remove.

F433174A-8FC3-464E-BF66-9E4BDF333DBE_zps

I'll live with them for now but I may hand paint the outside or get some red vinyl to cover them if it bugs me.

Another thing I found after cutting out the wheel arches is I wanted to run with some slightly larger tyres so I needed to enlarge the hole a little more. Best way I've found to do this in the past is to make up a large sanding drum buy using a saw drill bit (the type you use to cut a big hole in wood) and wrap a strip of sand paper around it with double sided tape. Fit it into a DIY drill and you have an easy way to get a nice smooth curve.

18A23E86-5A87-484F-91A1-BF32B2645E67_zps

20F1C54E-752D-4D34-B890-9B1EFF647518_zps

Decals next 😜

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Think I have a new Bec spare, I will check when I get home and let you know.

Turns out I have solved the issue - with a Y-lead of all things.

Nitomor's mention of running two BEC-equipped ESCs in parallel gave me the idea. I too have two ESCs in my rig, each getting their signal from a separate RX port, but they are old-school TEU-101BKs with separate power outputs, only one of which I was using as I only had one spare slot left on my RX. So why not try hooking up both power outputs in parallel to the one input via a Y-lead I thought to myself?

I knew it should all work in theory, but I can't say I wasn't a bit apprehensive that something might go "pop" when I hooked it up. However all is well - the power outputs from the two TEU-101BKs feed into a Y-lead, which feeds into the bind port on the SR410. Now, even with the wheels held straight and the servos flexing the savers, the receiver doesn't brown out.

Problem solved! :)

Only now I have a capacitor on the way that I have no need for. Ah well, at least it was cheap...

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I sold my Rubicon SCX10, now I'm seriously thinking about a Toyota Tundra. I believe, the right path to evolution.

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I have used 2 ESCs on a y-lead in a twin engine aircraft (Multiplex Twinstar) on brushless since early 2011...never given me any problems!

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I sold my Rubicon SCX10, now I'm seriously thinking about a Toyota Tundra. I believe, the right path to evolution.

I love my Tundra, however, it doesn't hold a candle to the SCX-10 chassis as a runner.

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Only now I have a capacitor on the way that I have no need for.

Yet... ;) I'm sure it won't go to waste.

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I love my Tundra, however, it doesn't hold a candle to the SCX-10 chassis as a runner.

Tundra (or any 3 speed) is a great build, with a lot of metal in the build. The bosy ios a lot more scale and accurate than any lexan shell, but it does add to the build time.

Gmade Komodo gives great off road ability, and the addition of body accessories in the kit does give it some scale realism despite the lexan shell - a nice mix of performance and realism.

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Great result XV, well done, good future reference for others too.

Rod, how about a Bruiser with a model Harley in the back ;)

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Spent a few days using the Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner on the bleeds on my Mits Evo VI shell. After using the cleaner, knife and wood sticks to scrape away as much paint as i could I still had some arears that had etched into the plastic and wouldn't budge. I even tried polish to clean up but it was as good as it was gonna get so I fitted the window masks and hit it with the red body paint. This time I made sure it was well mixed and warmed up before spraying with many light dusting coats instead of heavy ones.

It came out better than I expected

ADE007EB-4235-4D5C-8E8A-23B218B524DF_zps

4861389F-0BA6-41AA-8897-103C948EBC1B_zps

You can see the areas that etched into the plastic and I couldn't remove.

F433174A-8FC3-464E-BF66-9E4BDF333DBE_zps

I'll live with them for now but I may hand paint the outside or get some red vinyl to cover them if it bugs me.

Another thing I found after cutting out the wheel arches is I wanted to run with some slightly larger tyres so I needed to enlarge the hole a little more. Best way I've found to do this in the past is to make up a large sanding drum buy using a saw drill bit (the type you use to cut a big hole in wood) and wrap a strip of sand paper around it with double sided tape. Fit it into a DIY drill and you have an easy way to get a nice smooth curve.

18A23E86-5A87-484F-91A1-BF32B2645E67_zps

20F1C54E-752D-4D34-B890-9B1EFF647518_zps

Decals next

Is this the evo 6 shell you got mr crispy? I'm looking for different rally shells for an xv01 and yours looks amazing! Evo 6 is one of my all time favourites.

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-mitsubishi-lancer-evolution-vi-wrc-body-190mm-/rc-car-products/12027

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Yup, same shell as mine:

DSC03952_zpseoxmd3cv.jpg

I didn't fancy my chances of successfully masking and spraying the white bits, so instead I went all-red. It isn't an accurate representation of Mr Mäkinen's race livery - more of a privateer's tribute car - but I like it.

EDIT: Sorry - thought the question/comment was directed at me...

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Tundra (or any 3 speed) is a great build, with a lot of metal in the build. The bosy ios a lot more scale and accurate than any lexan shell, but it does add to the build time.

Gmade Komodo gives great off road ability, and the addition of body accessories in the kit does give it some scale realism despite the lexan shell - a nice mix of performance and realism.

It is not just a matter of realism...

(my ex SCX10 with ABS body)

dingo00250_zpsdujevgk7.jpg

It is the call of Tamiya!

(but now I'm seriously embarrassed when deciding between a high lift rd a CR-01)

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Is this the evo 6 shell you got mr crispy? I'm looking for different rally shells for an xv01 and yours looks amazing! Evo 6 is one of my all time favourites.

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-mitsubishi-lancer-evolution-vi-wrc-body-190mm-/rc-car-products/12027

Yep that's the one, I got the 190mm width but they also do a 200mm. The window masks include a triangular bonnet mask that you sometimes see on the Tommi Makinen race car, which is a nice touch.

Yours looks good XV, kinda wish I'd done that too now 😬

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Yup, same shell as mine:

DSC03952_zpseoxmd3cv.jpg

I didn't fancy my chances of successfully masking and spraying the white bits, so instead I went all-red. It isn't an accurate representation of Mr Mäkinen's race livery - more of a privateer's tribute car - but I like it.

EDIT: Sorry - thought the question/comment was directed at me...

Sorry xv that was my fault. I had the xv01 in my head and originally wrote your name instead of mr crispy. I'm glad I did now because that looks fantastic. All red definately works! B)

Yep that's the one, I got the 190mm width but they also do a 200mm. The window masks include a triangular bonnet mask that you sometimes see on the Tommi Makinen race car, which is a nice touch.

Yours looks good XV, kinda wish I'd done that too now

Thanks mr crispy. I'm sure it'll look fantastic when finished. Can't wait for the pics. I'll be getting the 190mm width version too I think.

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Finally ran my last 3 built cars, Monster beetle, Durga and hotshot. Only had time for one battery pack in each, only in the back garden and no skateboard ramp yet😀

Only issue I had was the MB servo seemed to be slipping, it would corner and then the servo moved but the wheels didn't. And then it would work again? Going to check the servo saver. Apart from that it ran well on the sport tuned and no noise from the back end. Very pleased with the Durga and hotshot, hopefully get a bit more time at the weekend and drive them a bit more in anger😀

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I'm going 'freestyle' paint on my Bruiser runner when I get around to building it. I'd love to see pics and a thread of your build. The build process is too epic to not put anything up, come on man get to it!!

I bought the black bumper kit to try and paint with Alclad chrome, the first attempt crashed and burned so time for me to try again with a different technique. Will you be fitting the black steering arm and axle support blocks or have you already fitted them all?

Just realized how much black I have to put on to get rid of the white tree
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Great result XV, well done, good future reference for others too.

Rod, how about a Bruiser with a model Harley in the back ;)

https://t2.ftcdn.net/jpg/00/34/97/07/400_F_34970735_uDg13DVWWs2xuUjUCdFyvCyqiLER2tSn.jpg

If my car passes it's mot tomorrow it will be a Honda city turbo next with rally wheels and the 4000kv brushless system number 1

And yes would love a f350 maybe later

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I've given in and admitted to myself I have a Tamiya obsession.

There you go, I'm sorry it's not pretty but it's out there now....and phew that feels so much better!

I made small Banzai order as well : )

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Started putting aside all the little bits of hardware I need to build (yet another - no.5) TA03, this time a spare R-S model to take my GT2 runner body after I monkey'd up the paintjob.

Also emailed Yeah Racing again about a release date for their product TAMC-022BU for the MF01, as I believe it's the only available option on the market for correcting the terrible geometry. Hopefully they'll release it soon...

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Started putting aside all the little bits of hardware I need to build (yet another - no.5) TA03, this time a spare R-S model to take my GT2 runner body after I monkey'd up the paintjob.

I'd like a ta03 chassis for my gt2 runner body too. Been on the lookout for one, are the body mount holes the same as for ta02sw chassis?

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