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42 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Pulled the gearbox apart on the SRB mainly as there were bits of dirt & sand behind the clear covers, also to see how the ball diff was fairing. Turns out all is well in there and no grooves on the ball diff faces. So re-lubed everything polished the metal gearbox covers & wishbones up a bit, reassembled, test drive around the lounge and sweet as a nut. Happy day’s. :)

Always thought the SRB's were a solid axle and not equipped with a differential? What have I missed? Its what put me off getting one! Home mod or an upgrade? 

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1 hour ago, Grotty Otty said:

Always thought the SRB's were a solid axle and not equipped with a differential? What have I missed? Its what put me off getting one! Home mod or an upgrade? 

Tamiya made an optional ball diff for the SRB's. Part no. 84113.

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Changed the springs and oil on my front optima re re shocks because i was getting alot of  traction roll on the street with my duratrax bandito tires. As i was changing i saw the front shock tower was bent, no idea when that happened so i ordered the kyosho front carbon towers and ordered the rear too because i found the pair for only $32 shipped. 

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Today I started finishing my second Tamiya F103 from left over spare parts and some small bits were new.

this car when finished will be for sale as RTR in "used condition", preorders accepted 🙃😂

 

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Also, could, someone explain me what is trhis friction plate for? Doesnt seem logic to me since it has no damper mount...

 

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9 hours ago, Grotty Otty said:

Always thought the SRB's were a solid axle and not equipped with a differential? What have I missed? Its what put me off getting one! Home mod or an upgrade? 

I most fortunately hit the jackpot a bit when I bought it 2nd hand last year. Off the shelf bog stock you are right they don’t have a diff but a solid shaft. The chassis was already built but never run and came with the original Buggy Champ body + a Sand Scorcher body + both sets of wheels. Thinking it was odd when I received it that turning a rear wheel one way turned the opposite wheel in the other I opened up the gearbox to find a rare & expensive Tamiya ball diff hop up inside. I don’t think the previous owner knew, (or maybe forgot) as it cost me about the same as a new re-re Scorcher. There is currently one (diff) on that famous auction site over here in Oz for $210Au dropped from 230. Needless to say it’s been there for sometime. Some people like them some people loathe them. Personally I like it, especially under the circumstances I got it ;)

The way they are made they can be tightened (or loosened) by only taking off the left hand wheel and inserting a small ball end Allen key or similar down the groove in the drive shaft. I have since picked up a straight shaft in case the diff gave up the ghost, but I think it will be a long time before that happens inspecting it again last night. 

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Had a fun run with the Brat tonight. No broken parts or lost screws. Only one particularly bad landing :-)20180710_180905_resized.thumb.jpg.0659c1b6f7adbf2c27abdb12d5da3957.jpg

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Today i received a savox 1230 mg servo for my txt 2 steering. Little did i know that the top of the servo is a few mm bigger than standard servos so when i intially installed with the stock servo saver it was binding with the front gearbox. Luckily the stock servo saver has 2 inputs for the screws. I had to dremel the first one off up to the edge of the 2nd hole. It worked great but I totally forgot this would mess up the geometry of the steering so after a few times adjusting the tie rods I finally got it sorted. 

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Went to my NEW local(ish) model shop for a new Lipo charger my old faithful had to go🙁 (giving me small electric shocks when I touch the metal parts on it😲) so it definitely had to go! Anyway as usual when going to these shops you come out with a completely different product🤔 but in my defence just over £115 for the whole set up including battery and charger and the quality for that amount of money was proper good it was brushed so I changed it to brushless and Lipo and for easier use for me I put a spektrum reciever in it aswell (you can buy a brushless version but I had all that so I bought the brushed one, and what an absolute hoot over the park I've never had so much fun with an RC and OMG its like a missile does tend to flip over a lot so a wider stance is needed so hub extensions have been ordered 

 

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Rear plate arrived for my F103, so now she is finally done, nice and clean from down under.

ready to put that brushless in!

 

also body nice trimmed to fit the Diffusor.

 

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19 ESC's, 6 batteries, and 2 chargers all swapped from Tamiya connectors to T-connectors. I forgot the shrink tubing twice and had to desolder to put it on. On the 2nd time desoldering, I accidentally put tension on the wire as I was removing it, and a hot drop of solder flew off and landed on my arm and burned itself in nicely. Removing it was worse than it landing on me. I'll never forget the shrink tubing now.

 

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9 minutes ago, Kingfisher said:

19 ESC's, 6 batteries, and 2 chargers all swapped from Tamiya connectors to T-connectors. I forgot the shrink tubing twice and had to desolder to put it on. On the 2nd time desoldering, I accidentally put tension on the wire as I was removing it, and a hot drop of solder flew off and landed on my arm and burned itself in nicely. Removing it was worse than it landing on me. I'll never forget the shrink tubing now.

 

I use these now, no need for heat shirnk and looks factory.

Although you still need to de-solder when you forget to slide the cover over the wires first 🤔😂

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/t-style-connector-male-female-with-insulating-caps-10-pairs.html?___store=en_us

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1 hour ago, Wooders28 said:

I use these now, no need for heat shirnk and looks factory.

Although you still need to de-solder when you forget to slide the cover over the wires first 🤔😂

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/t-style-connector-male-female-with-insulating-caps-10-pairs.html?___store=en_us

That's the exact ones I have. Even got them from Hobbyking. I still feel that there is a need for the heat shrink with those. If slid completely over the soldered connection, the heat shrink could still hold the wire in place if the solder joint breaks and could prevent accidental shorting of wires, or crossing both wires on a battery because both the positive and negative would be insulated. 

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(Re) built my first ever ball diff. After all the trouble I have had recently I decided to start from scratch so I pulled the diff to pieces, cleaned, de-greased and then rebuilt using new diff balls and grease. I also ran some wet 1200 grade paper over the rings. Haven't run it, but it's smooth and is back in the buggy. Fingers crossed. 

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Started the Monster Beetle. Just the chassis and electrics at the moment, hard to believe it's a 30 year old design. Going to get some tyre foams I think as the tyres feel very soft as is on the rims. No pics as I've hit my limit. 

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On 7/7/2018 at 11:00 PM, jg009 said:

All of this is giving me great inspiration for coming up with a monster truck name for that '55 body!

'55 Heavy.

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Added kyosho carbon shocks to my optima today. I also ordered the aluminum pivots because the right plastic one was cracked. 

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Made myself a motor stand. It was a pain soldering new wires onto one of my motors so hopefully this will make it slightly easier. 

20180713_202455

 

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3 hours ago, mman2005 said:

Made myself a motor stand. It was a pain soldering new wires onto one of my motors so hopefully this will make it slightly easier. 

20180713_202455

 

Very trick😉

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On 7/10/2018 at 7:06 PM, Fabia130vRS said:

also, could, someone explain me what is trhis friction plate for? Doesnt seem logic to me since it has no damper mount...

 

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Is it not to mount a flint so that you can make sparks come from the back? 

I could be way off but I have a vague recollection of Tamiya having that feature on their F1 models. 

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7 hours ago, svenb said:

Very trick😉

Thanks. A bit rough but should hopefully do the job

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Finally finished painting my first shell! Definitely a learning experience!

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Despite my best efforts, quite a bit of black bled through. A one colour shell would have probably been a better idea for a first go but I have enjoyed it. A few details to tidy up and decals to apply and done!

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14 hours ago, User4 said:

Is it not to mount a flint so that you can make sparks come from the back? 

I could be way off but I have a vague recollection of Tamiya having that feature on their F1 models. 

If this is a joke, good one, I see it now too 😂

 

Its not a flint mount. It comes out of this bag.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Fabia130vRS said:

If this is a joke, good one, I see it now too 😂

 

Its not a flint mount. It comes out of this bag.

 

 

 

142F1DEC-AB5B-46BB-9A30-B40F00A2E64C-2130-0000068C0C7D9953.jpeg

Early f103 models used a different friction damper system to the one we have come to know today. They used a stacked arrangement where you had a round disc then a fibreglass plate then another disc then another fibreglass plate and finally a third disc on top.

From what I gather this was considered too complex, too heavy, too inconsistent, so racers modified the damper arrangement by taking out one of the discs and one of the plates and running a configuration similar to what we see on more recent f103 models.

Tamiya took note of this, modifying the stock f103 damper arrangement to match that which racers were running on their cars. Thus was born the f103 friction damper with a single plate clamped between two discs on a floating post that we know today.

So, in summary, that second plate is there for use on an older f103 damper arrangement that is no longer used.

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2 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

If this is a joke, good one, I see it now too 😂

 

Its not a flint mount. It comes out of this bag.

 

 

 

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To be fair I was tired & even went to sleep thinking I probably made myself look like an idiot :)

I was going to remove the post but I thought to myself "Mark, it's better they discover you're an idiot now rather than later". 

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