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So, What Have You Done Today?

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2 minutes ago, Peter_B said:

What are the wheels you have on the Escort?

I'm looking for some similar to those butvM chassis size.

they are cheap ones off eBay, they don't seem to have a specificic name, example link https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4Pcs-Set-Rally-Racing-Rubber-Tire-Rims-Fit-HSP-HPI-RC-1-10-Off-Road-Car-12mm-Hex-/173453928501?hash=item2862a8e835

there are two different types though, these ones part of the rim is made to look like the type so the tyre looks taller.

The other type is like this

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pieces-RC1-10-On-Road-Car-Rally-Car-U-Rubber-Tyres-4-Hole-Wheel-Rims/273229510916?hash=item3f9dbf7904:rk:25:pf:0

I've not seen a smaller size, but I haven't really looked

happy hunting.

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4 hours ago, yogi-bear said:

did a halloween comp entry, a 3D printed monster body onto a Lunchbox chassis. I had to modify it a bit to get it to fit the chassis properly.

monster-truck-1.jpg

 

I also managed to get some time to work on my Escort Mark 2 project. I want to make a metal chassis and add some detail. So have sorted out most of the base now, added some aluminium mounting blocks for the TA02 front and rear gear boxes. Also made up a custom dash and fitted a micro servo to drive the steering well.  I'll also do a aluminium roll cage as that will give the middle some extra strength and stop some flexing.

TA02-Ford-Escort-Mk-2-1600-11.jpg

 

TA02-Ford-Escort-Mk-2-1600-12.jpg

 

 

Here you can see the servo under the dash and I've started making the firewall.

TA02-Ford-Escort-Mk-2-1600-13.jpg

 

Still need to add in the rear wheel arches and strengthening bars to stiffen the chassis and mount the roll cage too.

TA02-Ford-Escort-Mk-2-1600-14.jpg

 

I found some 4 cycle engine parts on thingiverse, so my idea is to use bits to cover up the TA02 gear box. It's a pity the shock towers are so far in, but that will have to do for now.

TA02-Ford-Escort-Mk-2-1600-15.jpg

 

Wow that brings back memories of my old mk2. Dont forget the oil stains on the bonnet inside from the dipstick and breather. I cant tell you how much I love the RS1800.

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Finally packed up my Scorcher to be sent off for its make over.

Took photos of my Wild One which has gone up for sale and did a little bit more sorting with my remaining kit and cars.

A great weekend all round with a smidge of Tamiya in there as well 👍

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Just rehomed my Wild One, I love this model I think it is much nicer in the flesh than the box art.

I bought it built over 18 months ago and I didn’t get round to putting the decals on it and that’s not going to change anytime soon, so on it’s way it is going.

 

 

A4EBC141-03F9-4199-A46A-C5E148E78EBB.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

Just rehomed my Wild One, I love this model I think it is much nicer in the flesh than the box art.

I bought it built over 18 months ago and I didn’t get round to putting the decals on it and that’s not going to change anytime soon, so on it’s way it is going.

 

 

A4EBC141-03F9-4199-A46A-C5E148E78EBB.jpeg

I always wanted a Wild One when I was young. Didn't have the money to upgrade so I had to be contended with the hand-me-down Subaru Brat and Ford F150. Both were very bad on the track during 2wd races. I was racing against Ultima and RC10 buggies. When the Astute was released, I was given money as my high school graduation gift and instantly bought one with a new Futaba MC116 ESC and Dynatech motor.

 

Even if I already had a better 2wd buggy, I still wanted the Wild One but never had a chance to own one though. 

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Rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,Psst,Psst,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,Psst,Psst,Pssssssssssssst,Pssssssssssssst,rattle,rattle,rattle,Pssssst,Psssssssssssssst.................Psst,Phew,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,rattle,Pssst,Pssssssssssst,Psssssssssssst,Psssssssssssssst,Psst,Psst.DoublePhew.

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I finished the mechanical build of my High-Lift (Hilux) today. The only mods were full bearings and clamp type wheel hexes. Electrics and body next, the body looks like it will take a while - I don't even know where to start with a hard body and I haven't decided what colours to use yet (pointers to useful posts on painting a hard body appreciated).

It's the first time I've built a Tamiya truck and whilst it was enjoyable, such a complex built with many metal parts really exposes the limitations of Tamiya's silly "metal parts bag" system and following the instructions is a nightmare (I've built over 20 cars). On what planet does part BB10 not exist in bag BB yet there are 4 of them in bag BC?!?!?! Some steps require 4 different bags! Crazy. Tamiya could learn something here from almost every other manufacturer (group components by step or by size rather than an arbitrary allocation). I highly recommend tipping all bags out and sorting everything by size before starting the build. Oh, and I wish they'd use socket screws for everything.

I do like the heft of the componentry and the final build does feel very strong (concerned about some of the body accessories though, can't see that exhaust system lasting very long!).

I need to buy in some (inexpensive) electrics and a suitable battery too, silver can at this stage but I need some high torque servos (is 17Kg @ 6v okay?) and a Tx (Futaba 4YWD looks good for ~US$80). Comments welcome.

Does anybody know where I can get a wood grain decal sheet (just a square sheet would be fine) suitable for 1:10? I'm thinking of wood panels for the sides and some hideous old-school brown paint. :)

Edit: sorry, I forgot posts were useless without pics... :P

Built_Hilux.jpg

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After painting the kitchen the wrong colour I was given a hour and a half off to go and investigate the condition of my beloved Astute.

I've stripped it all completely apart (well, 99.5% - I'll come back to this) scrubbed all the plastic bits until they were shiny and after soaking the metal bits in some vinegar I've put them in some solvents to get all the remaining griminess off. So far so good. The only plastic bits that are broken are the rear hub carriers, I think one is fixable though. All the metal bits are in very good condition, even the drive hubs which are only showing very minimal wear.

The issue, as expected, is the diff......

Dave did a number on it. I didn't take a picture of it because there may be some young eyes on here and it wouldn't be suitable for them. If you are of a nervous disposition, stop reading here:

So, on the B side of the diff, the housing and drive plates are missing completely. In their place is a wodge of epoxy. On the A side, the housing is there, but the epoxy has soaked through the threads of the bolts and stuck everything together, so I've no idea if there are any plates in there. Going back to the B side, the bearing has had a brass tube pressed in, which I think was used to deform around the little grooves on the drive hub to provide drive to that side. It didn't work, but it did succeed in making me very sad.

I've managed to prise most of the epoxy out of the diff, but I can't get it out of the bolts to allow me to remove the A housing. Does anyone have any suggestions on a way to get them free? I've left it in a bath of WD40 overnight, but I don't know if that will have any effect at all.

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2 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

...I've managed to prise most of the epoxy out of the diff, but I can't get it out of the bolts to allow me to remove the A housing. Does anyone have any suggestions on a way to get them free? I've left it in a bath of WD40 overnight, but I don't know if that will have any effect at all.

As you suspect, I doubt WD40 will do anything to help. Perhaps chuck it in the freezer for 4+ hours and try chipping it off? The only other alternative is chemical I think and that's bound to ruin parts.

 

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4 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

After painting the kitchen the wrong colour I was given a hour and a half off to go and investigate the condition of my beloved Astute.

I've stripped it all completely apart (well, 99.5% - I'll come back to this) scrubbed all the plastic bits until they were shiny and after soaking the metal bits in some vinegar I've put them in some solvents to get all the remaining griminess off. So far so good. The only plastic bits that are broken are the rear hub carriers, I think one is fixable though. All the metal bits are in very good condition, even the drive hubs which are only showing very minimal wear.

The issue, as expected, is the diff......

Dave did a number on it. I didn't take a picture of it because there may be some young eyes on here and it wouldn't be suitable for them. If you are of a nervous disposition, stop reading here:

So, on the B side of the diff, the housing and drive plates are missing completely. In their place is a wodge of epoxy. On the A side, the housing is there, but the epoxy has soaked through the threads of the bolts and stuck everything together, so I've no idea if there are any plates in there. Going back to the B side, the bearing has had a brass tube pressed in, which I think was used to deform around the little grooves on the drive hub to provide drive to that side. It didn't work, but it did succeed in making me very sad.

I've managed to prise most of the epoxy out of the diff, but I can't get it out of the bolts to allow me to remove the A housing. Does anyone have any suggestions on a way to get them free? I've left it in a bath of WD40 overnight, but I don't know if that will have any effect at all.

Do you have any pics?

 

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Today I got in the mail a package from hobbyking. 

 

My Turningy 4.0 3S 30/40C arrived for my DF02 and a nylon drift servo for 6$ from hk for my m03.

zlym3d.jpg

Now waiting for brushless combo ad to see if the body will fit.

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9 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

After painting the kitchen the wrong colour I was given a hour and a half off to go and investigate the condition of my beloved Astute.

I've stripped it all completely apart (well, 99.5% - I'll come back to this) scrubbed all the plastic bits until they were shiny and after soaking the metal bits in some vinegar I've put them in some solvents to get all the remaining griminess off. So far so good. The only plastic bits that are broken are the rear hub carriers, I think one is fixable though. All the metal bits are in very good condition, even the drive hubs which are only showing very minimal wear.

The issue, as expected, is the diff......

Dave did a number on it. I didn't take a picture of it because there may be some young eyes on here and it wouldn't be suitable for them. If you are of a nervous disposition, stop reading here:

So, on the B side of the diff, the housing and drive plates are missing completely. In their place is a wodge of epoxy. On the A side, the housing is there, but the epoxy has soaked through the threads of the bolts and stuck everything together, so I've no idea if there are any plates in there. Going back to the B side, the bearing has had a brass tube pressed in, which I think was used to deform around the little grooves on the drive hub to provide drive to that side. It didn't work, but it did succeed in making me very sad.

I've managed to prise most of the epoxy out of the diff, but I can't get it out of the bolts to allow me to remove the A housing. Does anyone have any suggestions on a way to get them free? I've left it in a bath of WD40 overnight, but I don't know if that will have any effect at all.

Are you saying you need some new diff parts ?

Might have the A & B diff housings somewhere.

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I changed out the Dean's plug for the Castle Connector.  I really like their design but I don't like that the 4mm sized connectors are too small to work with 12 gauge wire.  :(

10.29.2018-17.18.png

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11 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

I changed out the Dean's plug for the Castle Connector.  I really like their design but I don't like that the 4mm sized connectors are too small to work with 12 gauge wire.  :(

10.29.2018-17.18.png

Like the blue chassis and parts, is it a TT02?

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8 hours ago, krisby said:

picked up a vintage striker and ordered a falcon too! 

Was the Striker a red/white stripey one off EBay? 

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14 hours ago, Tamiyabigstuff said:

Are you saying you need some new diff parts ?

Might have the A & B diff housings somewhere.

I've got a replacement B housing, the A is there, but I think I may end up damaging the gear trying to get it off. 

If you've got the A housing that would be very interesting, if you've got a spare diff spur gear that would be even more interesting. :)

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58 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Like the blue chassis and parts, is it a TT02?

Yes. There is a hop up lower deck and matching plastics. I remember reading the build thread but I can't find it. Part nos are 47333 47335 47337 47339.

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On 10/29/2018 at 8:36 AM, djmcnz said:

It's the first time I've built a Tamiya truck and whilst it was enjoyable, such a complex built with many metal parts really exposes the limitations of Tamiya's silly "metal parts bag" system and following the instructions is a nightmare (I've built over 20 cars). On what planet does part BB10 not exist in bag BB yet there are 4 of them in bag BC?!?!?! Some steps require 4 different bags! Crazy.

The first time I built a big rig, I found the same.  I couldn't understand why I was missing screws from parts bag A.  I opened up parts bag B because there seemed to be some in there and maybe there had been a packing or labelling error.  Then I saw that I needed more, and more, and even more of those screws, and there was no way I had enough.

Then I realised there were these other screw bags that were neither A nor B nor C nor anything else, but full of the screws I needed.

Once I got my head around that it made perfect sense.  The screw you need lots and lots and lots of (3x10mm, for example) is in a bag on its own.  Then you don't have to try to identify a 3x10 from a 3x8 or a 3x12 every step.

When I'm building rigs I empty all the screw bags into different trays in a parts storage box.  The way Tamiya have separated them makes it very easy to always get the right screw.  IMO, of course :)

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39 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

...The screw you need lots and lots and lots of (3x10mm, for example) is in a bag on its own.  Then you don't have to try to identify a 3x10 from a 3x8 or a 3x12 every step...

Yep, that's the right way to do it IMO, are Tamiya rigs like that? Because their cars, buggies and trucks are not.. :(

Even their TRF kits had parts allocated all over the place but I use aftermarket screw kits which are sorted by size when I built a TRF kit.

 

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Put some of my prized collection up for sale :( 

Please go and take a look - I'd much rather these models go to a collector before I risk the wrath of the eBay auction bidders!

Some highlights :

 

DSC_0535

 

DSC_0482DSC_0502DSC_0477DSC_0467

 

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Playing around with a new RGB light I got so I snapped some pics of my Bruiser re re.

tSqMPUq.jpg

eG8gNgX.jpg

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Finally got around to fitting new motor and mount to the TNX, I now have adjustability to change pinions if I want to

XgKkJKU.jpg

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