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More damper building over breakfast. I have missed my target though - we are in March and the M04 is not quite complete. Only a few more steps to go.

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15 hours ago, Juggular said:

 

How are the sway bars?  

 

Front makes a remarkable difference in tight turns, rear (in this particular setup) makes no real difference at all. High speed straight line stability increased, as was to be expected. 

So far that is, I've only run it once, and the setup has yet to be refined. I went for a tighter rearend, softer frontend guesstimate as a starting point. Caster especially was pretty much near kit settings, and that didn't seem to work too well. 

The DF-03 shocks, set up according to the manual, were no improvement at all. They turned out rather bouncy on the DT-02, definitely no improvement over the kit shocks, not with the "medium" setup and the yellow kit oil. 

I guess once the rest is dialed in, the swaybars will make more of a difference. 

DSC_2570.JPG

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This afternoon I continued with my grand game of Swapperoo, fitting the TBLE-02 ESC that came out of my FF-03 into my M-06 and adding a 13.5t MMM motor and AAS700 ballraced servo. Along with the hop-ups I added a few weeks back and those out was built with, it is now a close match to the spec of my M-05.

2019-03-04_06-27-01

Both feature 13.5t Speed Passion motors, TBLE-02 ESCs fitted with Deans plugs, AAS700 ballraced servos, Yeah Racing ballraced steering racks, Yeah Racing alloy motor mounts, CVA shocks, ballraces and steel pinions.

I also did the first rough cut of the Kamtec "Hot rod Beetle" shell that it will be using for running duties in order to preserve the pristine Renault Alpine shell that it wears on the shelf.

2019-03-04_06-27-34

 

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3 hours ago, S-PCS said:

Front makes a remarkable difference in tight turns, rear (in this particular setup) makes no real difference at all. High speed straight line stability increased, as was to be expected. 

So far that is, I've only run it once, and the setup has yet to be refined. I went for a tighter rearend, softer frontend guesstimate as a starting point. Caster especially was pretty much near kit settings, and that didn't seem to work too well. 

The DF-03 shocks, set up according to the manual, were no improvement at all. They turned out rather bouncy on the DT-02, definitely no improvement over the kit shocks, not with the "medium" setup and the yellow kit oil. 

I guess once the rest is dialed in, the swaybars will make more of a difference. 

DSC_2570.JPG

If my DT03 is anything to go by I would advise switching to one hole pistons (if there are some with the shocks) get some 500cst oil for the front shocks (about 100 heavier than the kit oil) and put the kit cva soft springs on the front. Should really help the car getting into corners. 

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iQSgBYl.jpg

Once my better half was done baking I took over the kitchen to make dinner and fit my new toys on the manta ray. 

I wasn't sold on the motor mount being essential but once I started to fit it I was converted, really nice bit of kit and the shaft makes a world of difference. I also removed the servo saver as I was tired of the slop and replaced it with a nice aluminium horn. There's more hop ups I can put into the steering to make it even better. 

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I seriously need a new restoration project, a First 100 project. A buggy of some sort. 

If you have a basket case project in need a new home, please hit me up via PM.  

 

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Artificial light doesn’t photo well but the 2 coats of gold under the orange and red looks good to me & off with the masks for silver tomorrow.

GF01 hops

 

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16 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

If my DT03 is anything to go by I would advise switching to one hole pistons (if there are some with the shocks) get some 500cst oil for the front shocks (about 100 heavier than the kit oil) and put the kit cva soft springs on the front. Should really help the car getting into corners. 

It's getting out of corners that the car has trouble with... Right now, it turns in perfectly, and then loses it coming out of the turn under power. Not nearly as bad as in stock form, but far worse than I would expect with these upgrades. 

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Went for a training with my friend.

46667-F22-77-DF-4778-BE38-6-D7-F2-AC7085

there is a race in 7months, need to gain a little bit of expirience with tailgating.

 

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1 hour ago, S-PCS said:

It's getting out of corners that the car has trouble with... Right now, it turns in perfectly, and then loses it coming out of the turn under power. Not nearly as bad as in stock form, but far worse than I would expect with these upgrades. 

In which case I'd ditch the rear bar completely. On loose surface when I was running my DT03 on that I had the front bar only to give as much traction as possible. And I'd also reverse my advice on springs - keep the gold springs from the DF03 shocks on the front and put the kit springs back on the rear to get some squat and weight transfer. Next thing I'd look at it tyres. They're very evenly matched front to rear in terms of tread pattern. I can run way more aggressive rear tyres on my rear drive rear motor buggies compared to the front so that they fire out of the corners. What surface do you mostly run on? At the risk of self-promotion, if you're into hopping up your DT chassis, I designed some 3 deg toe it rear hubs for the DT02/3 rear end which allow a much longer and flatter rear camber link for a lower roll centre and more traction. Their on my CTE RC Shapeways store if you're in any way interested. 

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The plan for the day was:

Remove motors from all 3 cars.
Put the Torque tuned from the GF-01 somewhere safe.
Put the Brushless motor from the DT-03 into the GF-01.
Put the Brushless motor from the Yeti into the DT-03.
Replace the servo in the GF-01 with the one from the Yeti.
Gradually replace all the Yeti hop-ups with the standard kit parts with the view to selling it.

Start

The reality was that I removed all 3 motors but the pinion grub screws are stuck fast in both the brushless motors and have now rounded off. In the end I managed to snap the end off the hex driver and stick it into my finger.

That will teach me to use Loctite! I have ordered a tool from Amazon that should hopefully remove the pinion, so I'll try again tomorrow.

Finish

 

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Final pieces came in last night for my 1/16 WPL C24 kit. So all in all, here's, the options I bought for it:

Metal upgrade axles
Metal axle/diff housings
Metal driveshafts
Metal servo and steering rod
Aluminum steering knuckles
Aluminum wheels
Full bearings
2-speed transmission with larger motor and servo
10A ESC and FlySky GT3C receiver
Custom decals from Nathaneal at MCI

Still would like oil dampers at some point. But, I finally got to drive it around last night around the living room and up/over the dogs' beds. Transmission works great and much quicker with the larger motor. Can't wait to get it out in the yard with some better weather, to run and take photos :)

59aa434a6fe42e2ab0c6f8eaff0735ee.jpg
f888f54cc5d3eaeaf228d6f365439f94.jpg
d6460c562cc60b8dcf39bd1df56426c8.jpg
81bafa3cb2da4395a3f5d4abde565f12.jpg

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Ran my Thunder Dragon in lovely conditions at lunchtime. New carbon front tower and body mount, and bearing steering set, are all good. There was (obviously) some tweaking to do - blather on the build thread - but really it was just lovely. 

20190305_135232

 

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4 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

In which case I'd ditch the rear bar completely. On loose surface when I was running my DT03 on that I had the front bar only to give as much traction as possible. And I'd also reverse my advice on springs - keep the gold springs from the DF03 shocks on the front and put the kit springs back on the rear to get some squat and weight transfer. Next thing I'd look at it tyres. They're very evenly matched front to rear in terms of tread pattern. I can run way more aggressive rear tyres on my rear drive rear motor buggies compared to the front so that they fire out of the corners. What surface do you mostly run on? At the risk of self-promotion, if you're into hopping up your DT chassis, I designed some 3 deg toe it rear hubs for the DT02/3 rear end which allow a much longer and flatter rear camber link for a lower roll centre and more traction. Their on my CTE RC Shapeways store if you're in any way interested. 

Medium-Higher grip concrete track, no traction issues, on the contrary, front end lifts coming out of the corners, that's part of the problem. I'm rather enjoying this, first serious attempt at racing anything. So many theories to try out, too bad I'll have to wait til Sunday. 

I'll have a look at your Shapeways store right now. 

 

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11 minutes ago, S-PCS said:

Medium-Higher grip concrete track, no traction issues, on the contrary, front end lifts coming out of the corners, that's part of the problem. I'm rather enjoying this, first serious attempt at racing anything. So many theories to try out, too bad I'll have to wait til Sunday. 

I'll have a look at your Shapeways store right now. 

 

These are the parts you need. 

http://shpws.me/R5d2

There is a tonne of info on my build thread if you are interested. This post is specific to the uprights though. 

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/82220-grasshopper-dt03-adventures-in-getting-back-into-rc-moved-to-builds-for-ongoing-project/&do=findComment&comment=702742

 

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Finally got around to building the Super Hotshot. Amazing to see how they rigged up those substantial improvements without making even the slightest changes to the basic design. 

DSC_2586.JPG

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Decided to fit my NOS bumpers to my vintage Mini shell;

33417640118_502b6bc6e5_b.jpg

looks a lot better with them fitted although I can’t decide whether to go with the plain grill or the cooper grill, I’m leaning toward the plain grill for some reason;

46570073424_3a777f5bb8_b.jpg47241127092_db299c5c4f_b.jpg

Also thought I’d see what it looked like with black arches, this is only a temporarily done with black insulation tape but looks quite good;

33417640098_e7c7526bc8_b.jpg

All I need now is to find some fine line tape in silver/chrome finish to do some coach lines & I think I’ll be happy.

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9 hours ago, max69vk said:

Decided to fit my NOS bumpers to my vintage Mini shell;

33417640118_502b6bc6e5_b.jpg

looks a lot better with them fitted although I can’t decide whether to go with the plain grill or the cooper grill, I’m leaning toward the plain grill for some reason;

46570073424_3a777f5bb8_b.jpg47241127092_db299c5c4f_b.jpg

Also thought I’d see what it looked like with black arches, this is only a temporarily done with black insulation tape but looks quite good;

33417640098_e7c7526bc8_b.jpg

All I need now is to find some fine line tape in silver/chrome finish to do some coach lines & I think I’ll be happy.

I think all variants look great, but the Cooper grill and body coloured arches is my favourite. 

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Played a little bit more with my F103LM, I already see some speed runs with these. :)

i4es1c.jpg

nehjt4.jpg

also something uncommon happend, my wife was amazed how soft these tires were. Haha quite uncommon for rc related stuff

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Tried to loose assemble my new 3 gear layback gearcase for the TRF211. Didn't work. I got a measurement wrong (I suspect I mirrored it by measuring the back of the motor mount instead of the front) so one of the holes doesn't line up, and one of the FF03 motor plate holes 'lobes' I didn't have in my CAD model hits the outdrive. Decided to ditch this idea and finished off the 3 gear layback transmission based on the Yokomo motor plate and my own design spur gear cover. Looks good (I hope) so put in another shapeways order for the new transmission. If it all goes together nicely and runs OK it means I can put the layback option on my store though, so that's a bonus. 

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Yesterday I finished painting the Brat, today I put the stickers on. Did I chose a difficult one for my 1st attempt?! I think Tamiya made some of the decals the wrong size just for a giggle. 

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Finally after almost a year, managed to almost finish the cockpit set for my 1998 BTCC Laguna. Still need to add a few details, visor, window safety net etc.

IMG-20190303-1411228.jpg

IMG-20190303-1410159.jpg

 

Thanks, James.

 

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WfygA6F.jpg

Fitted some very cheap aluminium shocks for the manta ray. Needs some oil and probably softer springs for the front. I'm impressed for my £7. Beginning to feel the buggy it can be if that makes sense. Can't wait to get it back on the road! 

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