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2 hours ago, swapto said:

So I built one. And made it a Hornet. Sacrilegious?



Nope. Inspired. Looks great in those colours 😎👍

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7 hours ago, swapto said:

Tamiya fanboi here.

Without a doubt the Tamiya Hornet is my all-time fave! Had one as a kid and about 5 as an adult/father...

Overt the years the only car that has peaked my interest outside of the Tamiya family is the Kyosho Optima. I was drawn to the build, the metal parts and the vintagness of it all.

So I built one. And made it a Hornet. Sacrilegious?

IMG_20190627_122227.jpg

Very nice! :)

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Lunchtime breakout with the Mad Manta Hopper Bull Thrasher Thing

20190628_123604

Its an absolute hoot! Ground clearance is brilliant for summer grass, but still really stable. Popped the front c hub off the screwpin after a wjile, but doesn't seem to have broken anything. 

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MadMantaHopperBullThrasherThing  = ThunderThunderCougarFalconBird ?

I had a decent day, began decaling the Pajero I still need to finish painting but I figure I can start the front while the rear still needs colours I don't have. 

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I also began trimming my 5 turbo body for my m chassis touring car come rally. 

cm4EJQ8.jpg

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Got the lighting installed in the LaFerrari and currently waiting on the wheels to dry. I cleaned up the wiring after I took this photo.  

900fcecff51ec2fb9be7e97a8dc4408d.jpg

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2 hours ago, Hobgoblin said:
2 hours ago, Hobgoblin said:

 

cm4EJQ8.jpg

ooh lala! :wub:

 

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Swapped some motors around between cars so now I have a 7.5t on 3S in my TT02 thrasher. Geared to a conservative 8.7 FDR, will lower it if the motor stays cool. It's rainy and miserable outside but I gave it a quick hit undercover and traction is non-existent :D.
Qh78uRD.jpg

Also stripped some unnecessary weight from my other TT02 and tried to get the weight as low and forward as possible. Changed the motor to a 21.5t and put 2.99 FDR gears in it - going to try my hand at 21.5 TC racing.
LSA9VjC.jpg




 

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1 hour ago, nbTMM said:

Swapped some motors around between cars so now I have a 7.5t on 3S in my TT02 thrasher. Geared to a conservative 8.7 FDR, will lower it if the motor stays cool. It's rainy and miserable outside but I gave it a quick hit undercover and traction is non-existent :D.
Qh78uRD.jpg

Also stripped some unnecessary weight from my other TT02 and tried to get the weight as low and forward as possible. Changed the motor to a 21.5t and put 2.99 FDR gears in it - going to try my hand at 21.5 TC racing.
kUJktT0.jpg




 

Question:

Aside from the color, are there any physical or technical differences between the blue, white and black chassis of the TT02? 

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2 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

Question:

Aside from the color, are there any physical or technical differences between the blue, white and black chassis of the TT02? 

The blue and white chassis are molded with glass fibre reinforced ABS plastic so they are slightly stiffer than the black chassis which is just plain ABS. That said, the black chassis is already pretty stiff by 1/10 TC standards. I doubt anyone could notice a difference in the way the car drives from the chassis alone. One practical benefit is that screws take more force to strip in glass fibre reinforced ABS.

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55 minutes ago, nbTMM said:

The blue and white chassis are molded with glass fibre reinforced ABS plastic so they are slightly stiffer than the black chassis which is just plain ABS. That said, the black chassis is already pretty stiff by 1/10 TC standards. I doubt anyone could notice a difference in the way the car drives from the chassis alone. One practical benefit is that screws take more force to strip in glass fibre reinforced ABS.

Oh I see. So no measurement differences at all. In my FF03, I recently replaced all plastic parts to carbon reinforced including the chassis and suspension arms, and I have noticed the difference in stiffness. No more flexing especially on the chassis.

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Today I began a "wreckstoration" on a Kyosho USA-1.

I have to say, I was quite disappointed by the suspension articulation at first, I wasn't expecting X-Maxx levels of flex but even so, it seemed to barely move!

So imagine my relief when I realised that A: The previous owner had unwittingly locked the rear suspension completely when he removed the rear steering (relocated the inboard ends of the tie rods into random holes in the chassis with no ball joints!) and B: Had assembled the shocks wrong by putting the rubber tubes for limiting the upwards travel inside the shocks instead thus limiting the downwards travel! On to of that, the hinge pins were all rusty and make everything stiff (no giggling!)

cgNS1um.jpg

Can you notice a subtle difference!?

Even though the suspension travel was never that great on this truck, it still felt a million times better!

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Finally finished my Super Shot (its a re-re with MCI SuperShot decals), its been left with no decals for months now.

20190629_171355

 

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My LaFerrari is finished, sans the body mounting posts, but I'd thought I'd share anyways.

Chassis is a TT-01 with original Tamiya CPR-P100f ESC/Rx with Steering servo, running with a Tamiya Adspec radio. Hop-ups include aluminum heat sink, centerline drive shaft, sway bars, and carbon fiber upper support brace. Wheels are from the Ferrari FXX and primed/painted with Tamiya gloss aluminum. Lighting kit is aftermarket and has a y-harness that connects to the steering servo plug on the CPR unit. Adspec Radio is fully functioning and I replaced the stopwatch battery in the steering wheel.

Thanks for looking!

DSCN2733 DSCN2732 DSCN2741 DSCN2742 DSCN2737 DSCN2738 DSCN2734 DSCN2743

 

 

 

 

 

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Today I got to work on the soldering work for the lights on my King Blackfoot crawler. Doing headlights for the front, tail lights for the rear, no indicators planned. I also have space for brake lights and reverse lights, I just have no idea if there is a decent and preferably cheap way of controlling these. Any suggestions for a running light/brake light/reverse light controller guys? 

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Found some mechanical limits on the TT02. One of these double cardan shafts let go. These are knockoff 3racing "SSK" shafts afaik, which I cut and mated with some cheap adjustable dogbone ends from some other ebay shafts to get the correct length for a TT02. I had to fettle the double cardan joints to get them to run smoothly in the first place as the machining wasn't the best. Not sure if something jammed and the shock load caused it to snap or if the new motor/gearing combo and locked diff was just too much torque for it. I suspect the latter as the cross section where it failed is pretty small. 

baz33oZ.jpg

I threw some good old universal shafts in the rear and exchanged the diff lock block for spider gears with plenty of AW grease, hoping to ease the stress on the rear shafts but still be stiff enough to drift. It drove much better with AW'ed gear diff anyway - more predictable drifts and less understeer off power. Then this happened -_-
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Can't say I was surprised, these ebay wheels are brittle and this isn't the first one to shatter - at least I got some good life out of the tyres before this happened :). Lesson learned: toss the ebay wheels and use ebay tyres on recycled tamiya wheels.

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A

Havent been here in a long time. Havent done much... Very busy wifh familiy and work.

Also I saw the M08 came out. Will def buy one soon, and build over winter once works calms.

 

I did complete my M03RA. And almost my F103LM

 

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For now everthing is like new. Feels like a shane to drive them. Thats why my FF03 gets driven lately the most. Its fun and already has scratches. With the Tamiya TBLE 8T it might be also my fastest RC and fav.

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And the rest

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Just hopoing for now to buy a M08. And some accesorirs for the Xray, since it will bebattempting the last racebthis season here.

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Installed new wheels & tires ... aaand it rubs.  At least I have an excuse to buy a dremmel :)

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On 6/21/2019 at 6:34 PM, dannymulder said:

today  I finished the rebuild of my new mst-mtx 1 rtr, I have done a little test run in the street and on grass with 2 at storage level lipo's, tomorrow I am going to give it a proper run on the beach with fully charged lipo's.

First impression, the car drives nice and is easy to drive for a solid axle truck, drivetrain is very silent, it need some finetuning and maybe I am going to widen the track a little, but first I am going to run it on the beach see how it drives there,  thats where I drive it the most.

 

IMG_7189.JPG

I really like these but hard to get in the UK, same with spares.

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2 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

I really like these but hard to get in the UK, same with spares.

I bought this car in a austrian webshop for 250 euro with free shipping, parst are easy to get, tamico has them in stock,and  alot  parts on ebay,  rcmart and other webshops, It shares a lot of part with other mst models like the cmx and cfx, I have steel center transmission gears and steel driveshafts from a cmx on my truck that I bought from rcmart.

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managed to sneak in some toy-time ,

FG Marder was begging for a front bumper ( mostly to protect the front suspension a bit against impacts.

( was always a better builder then a driver )  Managed to get that done.

 

And could not resist zooming around a bit with the dji phantom 1  ( it still lives! )

Resisted this time the urge to do 1 "hold my beer and watch this" flying so ,  it lives to do that another time.

So with that, i am improving .. a few flights without extensive repairs after !

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Went racing, well yesterday. Unfortunately Jamie broke a driveshaft in his first race so his day ended early. I got the parts trackside but needed a workbench to change it over, and a hammer. Not sure its a good look fixing a 10th scale car with a hammer.

The new HB is amazing, its probably given me 3secs a lap and put me squarely in the A main. Finished 7th of 15 yesterday. It has an issue with the motor mount which is restricting my pinion size so I was running a 27T pinion when others have a 32T. My fan mount isn't here yet either. I was losing about 2m down the straight to people with proper gearing and fans. I have ordered the bits but they haven't all arrived,. I need an exotek diff cap to run a smaller spur which i now have, then the fan mount to gear it aggressively which is on its way. Next month should be different (probably slower with more speed...).

I do wonder if its just the shiny new tyres that made all the difference.

It was nice to be back in the mix though, this year has been frustrating as I've slowly slipped back off the pace. The Lazer was released in 2013 I think, so 6 years of development on the car seems to make a difference.

2wd was its usual painful self. Was talking to a friend there about ditching 2wd and buying one of those new 10th scale truggies, they are apparently the most fun to drive.

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5 hours ago, Proxik said:

Installed new wheels & tires ... aaand it rubs.  At least I have an excuse to buy a dremmel :)

That's too bad it rubs, because the overall look is perfect!  Any chance to give the body another 5 mm of lift or something else to help with clearance?

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On 6/29/2019 at 3:41 PM, NWarty said:

My LaFerrari is finished, sans the body mounting posts, but I'd thought I'd share anyways.

Chassis is a TT-01 with original Tamiya CPR-P100f ESC/Rx with Steering servo, running with a Tamiya Adspec radio. Hop-ups include aluminum heat sink, centerline drive shaft, sway bars, and carbon fiber upper support brace. Wheels are from the Ferrari FXX and primed/painted with Tamiya gloss aluminum. Lighting kit is aftermarket and has a y-harness that connects to the steering servo plug on the CPR unit. Adspec Radio is fully functioning and I replaced the stopwatch battery in the steering wheel.

Thanks for looking!

I like the stopwatch in the center of the radio wheel; that's an interesting way to let someone manually log lap times.

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