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Did my first races with my TA06

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Track was ace, the guys there were lovely, but the car was horrible! Soo hard to drive. Shane, but was a nice evening. 

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48561536921_0d7bbdb530_b.jpg

I got the shell cut out & sanded the edges. Having the body pre-painted with the arches pre-cut as well is luxury!

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Just finished the lettering on the tires of a Marui Samurai I'm working on (front and back).

This proved to be a tough one as the tires, even if in overall good state, are used so the letters were faded and partially gone, which made it pretty hard with the paint. The result is not perfect, but good enough for the purpose.

End of a little nightmare!

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5 hours ago, MockTurtle said:

went to the beach...

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That sea... is a sea of withdrawals for me. I can not remember the last time I had such a beautiful day at the beach like that... epic.

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I ditched my homemade velcro body mounts on my XV-01 and switched to the stock body post setup.  For a runner the stealth body mounts are too much hassle getting the body on square and sitting nice.  Body posts give you the ability to adjust the body height too which is nice on a rally car.  Yay for body posts!! 

48561718452_4aef400ef9_b.jpgUntitled by Joe, on Flickr

 

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Here's what we (my daughter and I) did this weekend...

Trailing, crawling and rallying.

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Some vids...

https://web.facebook.com/djnicadraus/videos/pcb.1092823044249473/1092820880916356/?type=3&__tn__=HH-R&eid=ARAI-7AI83luoYhblP7iOqZwZf6uMdmnwbCHvejaADWOsf6SsodJ1C650LPp40PnWgK_Cy3aUAvg2zH3

https://web.facebook.com/djnicadraus/videos/pcb.1092823044249473/1092821750916269/?type=3&__tn__=HH-R&eid=ARCY-D4yO77Yj5gHRCFBp3L5wfYmGxQeRrV0PeOhCpYOYSdbTRcfalqL-_K7RwqupM3faqsKbtB3vfx-

I'm really happy with the result of this CC-01 build. Through trial and error, re-desiging the suspension and improving the steering, it performs that way I want to. I installed the diff locker but the steering suffers so I removed it. I replaced the motor from 55t to 27t. It can crawl without one-way and it can rally. Trailing is no problem at all. 

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Today I ordered a 3d print of that DT01 double wishbone front suspension design that's on thingiverse to try out with my Fighter Buggy/Mad Bull hybrid.

This is one of the photos from the thingiverse page:

132d9918077b2ca97b7a6ebb5fde2707_preview_featured.jpg.91ead514fe712e60065795c75539e957.jpg

I'm not sure how strong it will be but I like how the design integrates so well without any major alterations needed. I think I'll be using m3 links vs the suggested m2 though! I might cut some aluminium to fit against the shock tower part to brace it too, especially those mounts for the upper links dangling down!

I've ordered it in PETG with 100% infill.

I've been getting on ok with parts printed in 100% PET or ABS. Not indestructible but they seem to hold up pretty well depending on the design. I bash moderately hard but usually more on dirt and sand vs concrete and tarmac which I think helps matters.

I'll let you know how It goes but for the price it cost, it's a cheap experiment!

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Getting closer to the end of this mild, non-invasive restoration

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6 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

 

MXI49VFh.jpg

 

The Shogun (Pajero) looks great!

I do hope that when Tamiya release the CC-02 chassis, they do it with a range of hard-bodies like this one; and perhaps some other classic Japanese 4x4s - Nissan Patrol, Isuzu Trooper, Toyota Land Cruiser, and my personal favourite - the Daihatsu Fourtrak too... with proper licensed 'retro' bodies, they could own the scale SUV market if they wanted.

Jx

 

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"What I did today" was take "what the postman brought me" the other day and finish building/updating/tuning it...  :D

IMG_4171.JPG

It took about 10 hours total to build the mini CNC engraver, but the final result is better than I expected and I'm glad I spent $130 for it.

The construction is based on aluminum extrusions, aluminum corner brackets, cap head hex screws, washers, T-nuts, injection-molded plastic parts, rods and linear bearings, lead screws, ball bearings, stepper motors, and an Arduino Uno board with GRBL-style electronics.

The instructions were very poor; individual steps didn't call out the required parts, so you had to make your best guesses at times.  There was no advice for squaring the frame accurately.  I used various scales, straight edges, flat surfaces, large calipers, and other tools to get it as square as possible.  Spacing the rods, linear bearings, lead screws, and frame mounts took some iterations to get everything spaced and oriented well.  The reward is a work plane that is consistent to 0.02 to 0.03 mm relative to the collet on the motor.

The parts themselves are pretty good quality; even the aluminum extrusions were cut accurately/consistently and only needed minimal filing to knock down some burrs.  Relative to the cheap 3D printers I've built in the past, I really like the stiffness of the final result.  I feel like ordering another one of these and transplanting some 3D printer parts just because the frame and table are so rigid and consistent.  It would be an upgrade to the print area I have currently, as well.

GRBL 0.9 was preinstalled on the Arduino/GRBL board, but I downloaded GRBL 1.1 and installed it instead.  There were no problems connecting to GRBL with Universal Gcode Sender and jogging the table and collet around.  The collet motor spun up as well.

So, I have to get some better cutter bits, some sacrificial board, and some clamps/fixturing to finish preparing it for use.  There's a future RC project in mind already, but it may take a little while before I get around to it.  For the time being I'm simply happy to add this little tool to the collection.

 

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2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

So, I have to get some better cutter bits, some sacrificial board, and some clamps/fixturing to finish preparing it for use.  There's a future RC project in mind already, but it may take a little while before I get around to it.  For the time being I'm simply happy to add this little tool to the collection.

enjoy mate. been down this rabbit hole. scratch built mine... in retrospect should have just bought a kit like you did. then again things weren't as available then as they are now. but yeah its in a perpetual state of improvement. need to upgrade to proper linear rails and maybe a water cooled spindle... etc etc

vlcsnap-2015-11-20-11h28m40s17_zpsjvrfiq

 

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5 hours ago, JennyMo said:

I do hope that when Tamiya release the CC-02 chassis, they do it with a range of hard-bodies like this one; and perhaps some other classic Japanese 4x4s - Nissan Patrol, Isuzu Trooper, Toyota Land Cruiser, and my personal favourite - the Daihatsu Fourtrak too

Agreed, although the Daihatsu Fourtrak (or Rocky as it is known down here) would be perfect for an MF01X release.

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1 hour ago, Blista said:

Agreed, although the Daihatsu Fourtrak (or Rocky as it is known down here) would be perfect for an MF01X release.

Also known as the Feroza, Rugger and Taft in some parts of Asia. My dad used to have one (Feroza) back in 1991-92.

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2 hours ago, martinjpayne said:

@speedy_w_beans Are those CNC engravers any good for cutting FRP, GRP or Carbon Fibre sheet? i.e. shock towers, battery straps etc.

Thanks, Martin.

@martinjpayne

Yes, definitely.  I'm looking to make various chassis plates out of FRP/GRP/carbon fiber with this.  There are several videos of this machine on YouTube; I think this one is particularly balanced and fair.  Some of the shortcomings and concerns he had have been addressed in the kit I received (cap head hex screws vs. Philips screws, washers, one-piece work table, number of angle brackets, etc.).  The build process starts from the beginning of the video; the software and usage examples start at 11:00.  I haven't cut anything yet, but I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

 

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10 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

Also known as the Feroza, Rugger and Taft in some parts of Asia. My dad used to have one (Feroza) back in 1991-92.

Not wanting to be a pedant, but I know my Daihatsus...

I'm specifically talking about the Fourtrak / Rugger (also sold as a Toyota Blizzard) - introduced in the mid 1980s the boxy body with leaf-sprung live axles (although they changed the chassis in 1993 to IFS and a coil sprung rear axle, and added wider wheel-arches to the original body) and a 2.8 litre diesel engine (also a 2.2 petrol in some years). It came in two wheelbases, 87" and 100" - although both bodies were only 3 door. The SWB came as a hard-top van, passenger and soft top versions, while the 100" was a 5/7 seater (with two jump seats in the boot) hard-top passenger version, although technically the rear [fibreglass] roof section could be removed, and in some markets it was also sold as a soft-top (mainly Asia) and a commercial van with no glass in the sides.

Someone scratch-built a nice SWB one over on the SBG (Scale Builders Guild) Here a while ago, and there is another thread on there where someone subsequently appeared to get a copy/commercially available? (although I've never seen it advertised) that they showed on a CC-01 chassis Here - which is what prompted my original comment about it possibly being suitable for the CC-02 perhaps?

 

In comparison, the Feroza was the 'Sportrak' in the UK (introduced in 1990 to compete more directly with the Suzuki Vatara/Sidekick) - a smaller and slightly more rounded shape, always had IFS and stuck with leaf springs on the rear, a 1.6 litre petrol engine and a removable hardtop (also sold as just a basic soft top in some markets). The Taft (which was also called a Fourtrak in some markets) was the previous generation to the Rugger - ie. late 70s/early 80s - and a much smaller vehicle, similar to Suzuki's LJ80 series.

I'm both ashamed and also slightly proud that even thought it was over 25 years ago now, I still know all that without having to resort to wikipedia.

Jx

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Put in some nicer geometry rear suspension (modified roll center, ball jointed upper arms) and loosened the diff to tame the rear end in my RWD TT02 drift project. Also started building another chassis so I can get back into speed running - built from spares taken off the drift car and the left over parts after upgrading my TT02RR with a Type S kit.
P2vxKO5.jpg

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@speedy_w_beans Thanks for the reply, I'm also looking forward to seeing your results.

Have you got a link to the exact model you bought... I know BangGood, TomTop and even Amazon sell them, but the same model number can be supplied from multiple companies at different spec. levels, and I don't want to get one which still has all the shortcomings you mentioned!

Thanks, Martin.

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On 8/18/2019 at 6:24 PM, nowinaminute said:

Today I ordered a 3d print of that DT01 double wishbone front suspension design that's on thingiverse to try out with my Fighter Buggy/Mad Bull hybrid.

This is one of the photos from the thingiverse page:

132d9918077b2ca97b7a6ebb5fde2707_preview_featured.jpg.91ead514fe712e60065795c75539e957.jpg

I'm not sure how strong it will be but I like how the design integrates so well without any major alterations needed. I think I'll be using m3 links vs the suggested m2 though! I might cut some aluminium to fit against the shock tower part to brace it too, especially those mounts for the upper links dangling down!

I've ordered it in PETG with 100% infill.

I've been getting on ok with parts printed in 100% PET or ABS. Not indestructible but they seem to hold up pretty well depending on the design. I bash moderately hard but usually more on dirt and sand vs concrete and tarmac which I think helps matters.

I'll let you know how It goes but for the price it cost, it's a cheap experiment!

@nowinaminute, I printed this out as one of the first things I did when I got a 3D printer.  I used PLA and maybe 30% infill, which didn't help, but it broke when i dropped my Mad Bull 3ft onto the floor onto all 4 wheels, right across the suspension links on the tower.  My layers were vertical, not horizontal like yours which didn't help, but I did think that if I did this again I'd use a bolt from the other side and use a screw on ball (and I'd redesign the model to add a bit more meat around them).

For the time that it did work, it did seem like a great mod though :-)

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