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2 hours ago, nellyle said:

Not perfect (why can't Tamiya provide window masks!) but I've pretty much finished my Zahhak. Just need to tidy up the wiring a bit. 

Not the most popular model, but I don't think it looks too bad if you ditch the box art stickers!

It has a Schumacher wing as I've got a few laying around and I hate cutting out wings!

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Looks great! Such a good buggy. If you didn't know alreafy the Sand Viper shell also fits if you ever want a cheap alternative option. 

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On 11/8/2019 at 10:30 PM, SimonL said:

Masked and painted a Ferrari F12 TDF shell. Red (because Ferraris shouldn’t be yellow!) backed with white - over the weekend I’ll finish off with the black front/back/skirts and the smoked windows

 

 

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Finished the painting last weekend, and over the last week slowly put the decals on the body. Finished this evening, fairly happy with the results

 

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5 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Looks great! Such a good buggy. If you didn't know alreafy the Sand Viper shell also fits if you ever want a cheap alternative option. 

Thanks! I didn't know the Sand Viper body would fit, I'll have a look.

My only gripe is the suspension. I've got either hi-caps or TRF big bores on my other Tamiya cars, other than the official TRF upgrade, are there any other options?

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13 minutes ago, SimonL said:

because Ferraris shouldn’t be yellow!

Ferrari's house colour is actually yellow like their badge, they are historically associated with red because the Italian national racing colour is red. That's why factory Ferrari and Masarati race cars were red not yellow... Agree they look better in red however 😁

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19 minutes ago, nellyle said:

Thanks! I didn't know the Sand Viper body would fit, I'll have a look.

My only gripe is the suspension. I've got either hi-caps or TRF big bores on my other Tamiya cars, other than the official TRF upgrade, are there any other options?

I had the small bore aeration buggy damper set off the 201 on mine which were lovely. I have the 53926 DF03 alloy shocks on one of my other buggies and they are super nice too, and less maintenance than the aerations because they are still diaphragm internals. They could be built tje correct length. Fronts would fit straight out of tje box. Rears would need the short eyelet and some internal spacers to bring them down to around 94mm eye to eye. 

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So my ESC died after a hard knock yesterday and I was all set to buy a new one but thought I should check to make sure its necessary.  Turns out the sensor cable broke, I'm guessing that heavy landing was enough to finally break it.  Its frustrating when its such an easy fix and I had spares with me so could've run the mains yesterday.  Its better than a new speedo though, although I was looking forward to trying the SkyRC TS160 so maybe I should order it and no let on that it was an easy fix...

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Enjoying the LB!

I also enjoyed a couple of boats and a couple of monster trucks, too.

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Got the DT-03 shocks mounted onto the Super Hotshot. Rears are bang on but the fronts could do with being a touch longer. I've ordered the correct piston rods so that I can use the holed shims and extend them slightly. Looks way better than the yellow CVA's in my opinion. 

DSC_0028

 

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1 hour ago, Grotty Otty said:

Got the DT-03 shocks mounted onto the Super Hotshot. Rears are bang on but the fronts could do with being a touch longer. I've ordered the correct piston rods so that I can use the holed shims and extend them slightly. Looks way better than the yellow CVA's in my opinion. 

DSC_0028

 

Niiiiice! If you are still coming up a little short on the front shocks, get 54042,the aeration damper front rods. They are 8mm longer than CVA rods so with short eyelets thry come out around 72-73mm long. Just pop the large shaft spacer on as a travel retrisctor and you are set. 

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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

get 54042

Excellent, saves trawling through the sea of parts to figure which one! Aiming for a ride height the same as a regular Hotshot or Boomerang to avoid the big change in toe angle from the suspension compressing. I'll order those now. Ta muchly. 

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2 hours ago, Grotty Otty said:

Excellent, saves trawling through the sea of parts to figure which one! Aiming for a ride height the same as a regular Hotshot or Boomerang to avoid the big change in toe angle from the suspension compressing. I'll order those now. Ta muchly. 

Well, the longer rod is definitely the one then, as it gives you lots of options combining long or short eyelets (long eyelets come out around 77mm) and internal shaft spacers to get it just as you want it. 

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In between waiting for paint to dry on a couple of bit for other TC members I've been tackling a few little jobs of my own!

Firstly was the FAV - I've now got radio gear and an ESC in it and I've tidied up a couple of bits of paint that got damaged in assembly. Then I took the gearbox apart as it was making a funny noise (turned out I had the motor mounted in the wrong holes :rolleyes:) and decided while I had it out I would give it a coat of paint. So this was sanded, primed and give a couple of coats of Mr. Gunzo Real Steel, which looks quite nice I think. Lastly I added a little Nitro bottle to the old resistor mount B)

IMG_1199 IMG_1198 IMG_1196 IMG_1195 IMG_1194

 

Then I finished off my Madcap.

I bought this as an incomplete chassis some time back with the intention of stripping it or parts to use for another project (more to come on that one soon) but that took a slightly different direction, so I decided to do a light resto on this and get it back to a running car.

This is how it looked when I bought it:

s-l1600 s-l1600 (4)

First order of action was to strip it all apart, clean and repair the chassis. So I plastic welded up the holes that had been drilled and then sanded and polished the bottom as much as I reasonably could.

By some extraordinary stroke of luck I managed to find a NOS bumper tree so front and rear parts were replaced and I tidied up the front and rear arms a little.

The gearbox was in surprisingly good condition, so I just rebuilt it with new grease and fresh thrust washers along with new bearings throughout the car.

Steering rods were missing along with suspension, so the rods were upgraded to 3mm ball units and the suspension was replaced with brand new Super Astute items, which are way better than the stock undamped versions and also look nicer in my opinion.

Next up were brand new wheels and tires, a standard acoms servo and receiver and a new Quikrun speedo topped off with a brand new TBG body and MCI decal set.

For some reason my google drive didn't sync all the pics so I'll add some more tomorrow but here are a couple for now:

IMG_1189 IMG_1190 IMG_1191

Anyway, now they are both finished (or 99% there as I need to change the springs in the back of the FAV) I've already started to lose interest in them so I've decided I'll probably sell them to make way for something else. Although, I've still got 5 other projects to finish/start, so I should probably look at those instead of buying something el....oooh that looks interesting.... ;) 

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Hs6mcb7.jpg

Getting a lot of joy out of this buggy at the beach. It's not quite as capable on the rougher bits like potholes and deep foot prints as an MT but on the slightly smoother/softer sand it's great fun. Never get bored of the massive rooster tails.

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Finished painting and stickering my race body. Just a quick blast of paint and the stickers seemed to fit ok, so it saved time masking it up. 

It won't stay like this for long...I guarantee it.🙄

 

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I bought (cheap Chinese) oil-filled shocks and wider aluminium hexes for my WR02... it's getting a lot of use now I've found somewhere suitable to run it, and it deserves some more hop-ups!

spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

 

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Great FAV @jonboy1, is there a build thread for it by any chance mate? I’m interested to know about the wheels & Tyres as I’ve got a set of those rims for a WO build. 

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19 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

First order of action was to strip it all apart, clean and repair the chassis. So I plastic welded up the holes that had been drilled and then sanded and polished the bottom as much as I reasonably could.

By some extraordinary stroke of luck I managed to find a NOS bumper tree so front and rear parts were replaced and I tidied up the front and rear arms a little.

The gearbox was in surprisingly good condition, so I just rebuilt it with new grease and fresh thrust washers along with new bearings throughout the car.

Steering rods were missing along with suspension, so the rods were upgraded to 3mm ball units and the suspension was replaced with brand new Super Astute items, which are way better than the stock undamped versions and also look nicer in my opinion.

Next up were brand new wheels and tires, a standard acoms servo and receiver and a new Quikrun speedo topped off with a brand new TBG body and MCI decal set.

For some reason my google drive didn't sync all the pics so I'll add some more tomorrow but here are a couple for now:

IMG_1189 IMG_1190 IMG_1191

Anyway, now they are both finished (or 99% there as I need to change the springs in the back of the FAV) I've already started to lose interest in them so I've decided I'll probably sell them to make way for something else. Although, I've still got 5 other projects to finish/start, so I should probably look at those instead of buying something el....oooh that looks interesting.... ;) 

These are the photo's I was looking for....:

IMG_1172 IMG_1173 IMG_1174 IMG_1178 IMG_1181

 

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23 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Great FAV @jonboy1, is there a build thread for it by any chance mate? I’m interested to know about the wheels & Tyres as I’ve got a set of those rims for a WO build. 

Thanks mate :) I thought I'd posted some updates in this topic but looking back I hadn't until it was all painted and dry built sorry.

The side pods were scratch built, the front arms and shock mounts were designed and 3D printed by me (I think I put them on shapeways but can't remember, will do if anyone wants) and the wheels are SRB 1.5" with polished covers by pargu on ebay. The front tyres are vintage Parma and the rears vintage Panda, I can't tell you any more about them at the moment because the seller I bought them from in the US is no longer on ebay so the listings are dead, but I have probably still got the packaging at home.

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21 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

The side pods were scratch built, the front arms and shock mounts were designed and 3D printed by me (I think I put them on shapeways but can't remember, will do if anyone wants) and the wheels are SRB 1.5" with polished covers by pargu on ebay. The front tyres are vintage Parma and the rears vintage Panda, I can't tell you any more about them at the moment because the seller I bought them from in the US is no longer on ebay so the listings are dead, but I have probably still got the packaging at home.

Ta. They are the exact same rim covers I have. I was planning on just using Scorcher Tyres but those Vintage ones suit the buggy look very well. I'll keep an eye out now & again. ;)

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I fixed my MF01X:

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The chassis parts were basically a straight forward swap:

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I think I discovered the problem that caused it.  It was likely a build error.  I had used the Yeah Racing ball bearing set and instead of a simple 850 bearing on the shaft it uses one with a flange.  I squeezed it in there somehow without noticing that it doesn't really fit with the B2 plastic part.  I assume that had enough of an effect to split the chassis part around the screw that holds the driveshaft cover on.

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I've set the servo endpoints and tomorrow I'll give it a test drive.  The dampers might need thicker oil since I'm going to back away from using it as a small trail truck.  I'm tempted to turn it into a m-rally car.

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IMG_1621.JPG.272e5da8a16887dcdf9d1e53ccf35cf9.JPGIMG_1623.JPG.06e0b3ad48fba078803bf0b9852d1cbc.JPGIMG_1624.JPG.a3810c6234cad94b4c012a4a9f2736a6.JPG

Cut the grass with these two. The wild one really could do with less diff on grass like this but with a torque tuned motor in it its wicked. Turns reall quickly. The sandshaker with big wheels ( bit of an experiment) would hardly turn in the width of the garden. In a straight line though bearing in mind it has same motor as the Wild one its really quick, mind you its a lot lighter. Needs bodywork as wheels are catching on lock and compression

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6 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

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... The wild one really could do with less diff on grass ...

When I built my WO I loaded up the diff with AW grease. Been running it on stock tires with a 4000kv brushless, under full power it is nearly uncontrollable when running on loose dirt. 

As an aside, I can see that your Webers have a fuel leak. My 1:1 fun car is running 40 IDFs and they only turn gold when the float bowls leak.

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