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So, What Have You Done Today?

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Glued 2 sets of touring car tyres... and my shirt to my stomache!!!!!

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23 hours ago, SimonL said:

Set up my TT-01E with better turnbuckles, oil shocks, and tightened the slack in the front and rear drive shafts. Would have replaced the stock ones with Tamiya 800600 universal shafts, but turns out the ones for the TT-01 don’t fit the TT-01E (or rather, I need to cut a bit of thread off - sticks out the wheel too much). 

Tried it out at the local indoor track and the car finally goes in a straight-ish line, and is easier to handle :) Need to work out how to get the car a little bit lower though as it rolls too easily

 

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43 minutes ago, SimonL said:

Tried it out at the local indoor track and the car finally goes in a straight-ish line, and is easier to handle :) Need to work out how to get the car a little bit lower though as it rolls too easily

 

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If you haven't already, reduce the shock length to 50mm eye to eye. That seems to be the only way to get the TT01 low enough for racing. You need somewhere around 5mm ride height with battery on board. 

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Took advantage of 10% off at Shapeways and ordered some brackets for my scratch build project plus a body mount some pretty bits for my Jeep trail truck.

Despite the money off, it was pretty expensive!!!

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Just ordered up some TT01 front uprights. Went with some alloy ones as it was a local seller and will probably have  by Thurs/Fri. 

Any consensus on plastic vs alloy for non racing driving? I figure in a crash the alloy wont break but will move the weak point to the arms (I have plenty of spares).

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2 hours ago, LeftyAl said:

Just ordered up some TT01 front uprights. Went with some alloy ones as it was a local seller and will probably have  by Thurs/Fri. 

Any consensus on plastic vs alloy for non racing driving? I figure in a crash the alloy wont break but will move the weak point to the arms (I have plenty of spares).

I reckon they are a good idea.

One of the ways I evaluate whether to go for alloy, carbon or plastic is to look at a top-of-the-line racing model and see what they use. A lot of them use alloy uprights, so I would think there is a performance and/or reliability advantage to them, making them a worthwhile hop-up. By the same token, even top-of-the-line racers use plastic suspension arms, so I keep the plastic arms on my models too.

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^put it back on the shelf in the box & forget about it & in 5 years it’ll be a nice surprise 

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Got fed up removing the kids lunchbox body every time I needed to connect the battery, so I cut a hole in chassis and fitted a connection in chassis. 

Now I just plug the battery into the chassis.

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1 hour ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

Got fed up removing the kids lunchbox body every time I needed to connect the battery, so I cut a hole in chassis and fitted a connection in chassis. 

Now I just plug the battery into the chassis.

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Don't lose - re-use it!

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11 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

If you haven't already, reduce the shock length to 50mm eye to eye. That seems to be the only way to get the TT01 low enough for racing. You need somewhere around 5mm ride height with battery on board. 

Thanks for the tip, I‘l give that a try. They were bought as 55mm shocks  - presumably I would have to shorten the springs a bit to reduce the eye to eye distance?

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42 minutes ago, SimonL said:

Thanks for the tip, I‘l give that a try. They were bought as 55mm shocks  - presumably I would have to shorten the springs a bit to reduce the eye to eye distance?

You should be able to simply add a 5mm spacer to the piston rod before you pop it back in the shock body. This will mean disassembling the shocks and re filling with oil but it will be much easier than trying to cut four springs to the same length. No problem with the springs being under a little more pre load with the chassis now lowered, they'll be a touch stiffer to keep the car at its ride height. 

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Second backing coat and then that oh so sweet peel the film off moment, the polycarbonate thing. 
 

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spent far too much money at TeamBlueGroove.....:mellow:

....preceded by far too much money on Friday at MCI Racing....:mellow:

any chance someone can put me up for a few days until Mrs. Jon has returned to a normal healthy colour and manner? :wacko: 

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2 hours ago, LeftyAl said:

Just ordered up some TT01 front uprights. Went with some alloy ones as it was a local seller and will probably have  by Thurs/Fri. 

Any consensus on plastic vs alloy for non racing driving? I figure in a crash the alloy wont break but will move the weak point to the arms (I have plenty of spares).

I reckon they are a good idea.

One of the ways I evaluate whether to go for alloy, carbon or plastic is to look at a top-of-the-line racing model and see what they use. A lot of them use alloy uprights, so I would think there is a performance and/or reliability advantage to them, making them a worthwhile hop-up. By the same token, even top-of-the-line racers use plastic suspension arms, so I keep the plastic arms on my models too.

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Inspiration for more work on the bug:

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Went & flat cleared the whole thing, apart from the windows. Thought about cutting out the windows, like in the pic, but realised that could cause a few problems like I’d probably have to take out the cockpit & clean it after a run.

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Decided against cutting off the running boards as the battery sits so low in the mf-01x. Next job: stickers :rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

Do you have any wheels in mind?

Yes, & they’re not the ones in the kit! I really like the M06 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint & the wheels on that would be ideal but I’ve decided to use the VW Camper/ Lowride Pumpkin ones with, yup you guessed it, a coat or 2 of flat clear ;) 

oh and I’ve magpied an idea from the a showroom on the main site & got 2 pairs of The Smoothie’ tires which look spot on!

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Since the S10 has flexing on the chassis, I decided to make it stiffer by cutting a 3mm carbon fiber board.

Here's the prototype. It's harder than the flexble plastic one.

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So far the flexing is minimized. Probably about 20% flexing left

Next will the the front and rear deck stiffener, battery holder, and shock towers.

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Work sent me home early today because the hydraulic system for the presses had enough and spilled its guts...

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But being sent home halfway through a shift let me catch the postman and catch up on some R&R&RC! A modelsport parcel brought me a Surpass ESC which is 3s capable "60a" and £13. This is going in my DF01 stadium truck. 

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It is not tidied at all, hence the rats nest of wire but it was a proof of concept. Really like the motor on 3s! 

I also installed an esc + motor on my scx10 clone kit. Bit of a squeeze.

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Few more bits printed on the F1. I need to get some bearings and some tamiya tires (which seem painfully expensive!) Also, I ran out of orange so I've had to carry on with what I had It's all gone rather Irn Bru. Oh well, I might make the most of it, there are worse liveries! 

Good going for a Wednesday! 

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I took the Lunchbox and WR02 Tractor down to an (almost) perfectly flat cricket ground and enjoyed wheelies for days - both trucks run a Traxxas XL5 ESC, Traxxas Titan 12T brushed motor and 2S LiPo - and the WR02 has the Tamiya hop-up wheelie bar (pictured) while the Lunchbox has my little upgrade - a bearing instead of the wheelie bar "wheel" that comes in the kit!

I also helped a lady exercise her dog - he struggled to catch up with the WR02, but he was a very cute puppy that had just recently had his "operation."

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finished running electronics in my f104 v2, what a nightmare!

started changing out the esc in my tt-02, ran out of steam.

that's what I will do tomorrow.

what have you done today ?

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6 hours ago, tamiya ny said:

finished running electronics in my f104 v2, what a nightmare!

started changing out the esc in my tt-02, ran out of steam.

that's what I will do tomorrow.

what have you done today ?

It would be interesting to see a picture of your F-104 V2. We don't see very many of them on here.

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