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1 hour ago, J@mes said:

Rerelease/ more stock not certain (still stock at Tamico.de) but there’s a bunch due on 24th Feb. £112.50 was the price with TC discount at Fusion Hobbies UK

Not a bad price especially compared to your other options in its class. Let me know if you want to a list of what should be hopped up or swapped from the trf 201

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Rebuilt and added antiwear grease to my tt02b ms. Cleaned the bearings and everything else i could think of. First time in over 2 years

05BC6494-F8D9-4821-9AAF-0C8109BAF5F4.jpeg

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Started to strip and clean my lunchbox and Stadium thunder after a rather muddy bash session. 

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54 minutes ago, Rb4276 said:

Not a bad price especially compared to your other options in its class. Let me know if you want to a list of what should be hopped up or swapped from the trf 201

What hop ups do you recommend?

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35 minutes ago, J@mes said:

What hop ups do you recommend?

I would replace the plastic diff joint to the trf 201 metal ones. The plastic get stuck if you ever try to rebuild your ball diff. Change the rear wheel to hexes, before i did a wheel fell off a few times. If you are going to use a high power brushless motor upgrade to the heavy duty diff gear set. I melted a diff when i first went to brushless, could of been my fault with the gearing but since i changed i have never had an issue. There is alot more you can do as i did but these are essential imo. 

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Let a few young lads have a turn of my dump truck, second boy only a minute in...

FAxgs2Q.jpg

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4 hours ago, berman said:

Let a few young lads have a turn of my dump truck, second boy only a minute in...

FAxgs2Q.jpg

That is unfortunate, I hope the fella was apologetic

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Give the custom made front bumper a retro distressed look just to finish off the scorcher together with the Woolf race alloy rims look like a good combination I might in the summer do a one colour body probably a retro orange or green something 70's I've got until the summer to think about it!

20191228_103119.jpg

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5 hours ago, berman said:

Let a few young lads have a turn of my dump truck, second boy only a minute in...

FAxgs2Q.jpg

Oh not a cheap servo neither! I'm thinking you can buy the gear kits separately?? I was watching someone over my local park with one of the dump trucks (which was brave because the part were he was there is a local little Hitler who's self appointed to have an opinion on anyone with a dog or bike or rc anything if he feels it's not appropriate haven't seen him for a while? Maybe someone's buried him in the park) anyway if you don't know what they are you expect it to just trundle along but then it just goes up on it's back wheels and takes off it didn't half gets some looks from people especially the kids with parents.......well cool!

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Took my now brushless Blitzer out on the street. Its defo quicker than the sport tuned but a fair amount of cogging? I believe its called. Have a programme card on order so will sit down and play with when it arrives. Being colour blind I find flashing lights very difficult to differentiate between. What is the main cause of cogging. Its a Goolrc 4300kv and 60amp esc. Do i need to change the gearing now I've gone brushless?

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37 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Took my now brushless Blitzer out on the street. Its defo quicker than the sport tuned but a fair amount of cogging? I believe its called. Have a programme card on order so will sit down and play with when it arrives. Being colour blind I find flashing lights very difficult to differentiate between. What is the main cause of cogging. Its a Goolrc 4300kv and 60amp esc. Do i need to change the gearing now I've gone brushless?

The cogging is because the motor is not sensored. Some sensorless motor cog more than others. I have goolrc in my re re optima  and it does not cog much, where as one of my castle sensorless in my tt02b ms seems to cog much more. I also have a sensorless castle in my txt 2 that doesnt cog at all probably cause of low gearing

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9 hours ago, J@mes said:

That is unfortunate, I hope the fella was apologetic

Yeah he was after I told him what was wrong with it. The first kid was quite respectful with it, the second was hamfisted and was almost deliberately trying to roll it. Never mind, I told him these things happen and I was actually quite shocked myself as I have never seen a smashed a servo spline before 😲

8 hours ago, moffman said:

Oh not a cheap servo neither! I'm thinking you can buy the gear kits separately?? I was watching someone over my local park with one of the dump trucks (which was brave because the part were he was there is a local little Hitler who's self appointed to have an opinion on anyone with a dog or bike or rc anything if he feels it's not appropriate haven't seen him for a while? Maybe someone's buried him in the park) anyway if you don't know what they are you expect it to just trundle along but then it just goes up on it's back wheels and takes off it didn't half gets some looks from people especially the kids with parents.......well cool!

I found someone who has the gear set locally (thankfully don't have to order from overseas), but yeah 2/3rds the price of a new servo. Haha I came across one of those guys once, he kept sending the cops down as my HPI BAJA sounded like a dirt bike, then came down and scolded me and told me I was trying to compensate for something with my toy car. 70yo man. I swear I nearly twacked him, but just laughed it off and continued on lol.

I had the steering rate turned down to 50% and the throttle to %60 as my 2 year old son drives the dump truck. So I gave the kid's my brushed stampede and the same kid was pretty loose with that, but all in good fun 😎

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1 hour ago, Rb4276 said:

The cogging is because the motor is not sensored. Some sensorless motor cog more than others. I have goolrc in my re re optima  and it does not cog much, where as one of my castle sensorless in my tt02b ms seems to cog much more. I also have a sensorless castle in my txt 2 that doesnt cog at all probably cause of low gearing

well i have cogging in my staduim blitzer and the brushless motor i have in that is sensored

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Slightly frustrating day. Cut out my new protoform spec 6 race shell (Christmas present) but was tricky and didn't do a great job. Then the paint can failed after 2 passes, so not even one coat on. Decided to ditch that and replace the A parts on the TA06 with the reinforced ones and bust the 630 steering bearing popping it out of the original part. Don't have spares so now gotta wait for replacements. Off out into the street with my rally car to actually have fun running one of the things! 

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Not today but yesterday we had our "Candyman Trial Trophy" at our club. The challenge was to get the car through 70 gates, collect as much as possible sweets from various depots and transport them to the finish line on a roof rack or on a trailer. If something got lost on the trail you were not allowed to pick it up again but you had to leave it for the next driver to collect. It was not that easy as tempreratures were around the freezing point and the trail was slippery, but was fun the whole day.

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cm191228004.thumb.jpg.c000b0a5ac82a1f366d18aaedd7eb751.jpg

 

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Rescued the day (from an RC point of view, mostly it's been a lovely day) by running the FF03 and, for the first time in ages due to waiting to sort rear tyres, my RR-03RA RS200. It runs so nicely! Really, really enjoy driving it. Should also run well at Tamiya Junkies next saturday.

20191229_200636

 

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Started on my Brat kit (build thread is started and pending) but ran into this oddity and wanted to know if this is normal or should I contact Tamiya?
As you can see this is the drivers side 4WD logo...
49294749998_7eefeab7ca_b.jpg20191229_163445 by David Ashe, on Flickr

And this is the passenger... which is correct and is this normal or a bad molding?
49294750003_369c37b431_b.jpg20191229_163454 by David Ashe, on Flickr

 

Thanks in advance!

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Almost finished the build on my TT02RR. Frustrated by the turnbuckles - instructions say to cut each of the end parts 2mm shorter to get the overall length to 38mm - if Tamiya knows they need to be 2mm shorter, why not just make the part 2mm shorter in the first place? :(

Also frustrated that my Hobbywing ESC has an XT60 connector, and my LiPo a Deans connector - so waiting for an adapter to arrive before I can go any further. 

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12 hours ago, Scipunk said:

Started on my Brat kit (build thread is started and pending) but ran into this oddity and wanted to know if this is normal or should I contact Tamiya?
As you can see this is the drivers side 4WD logo...
49294749998_7eefeab7ca_b.jpg20191229_163445 by David Ashe, on Flickr

And this is the passenger... which is correct and is this normal or a bad molding?
49294750003_369c37b431_b.jpg20191229_163454 by David Ashe, on Flickr

 

Thanks in advance!

This is perfectly normal. It's one of the quirks with the molding on the beat. The original 80s release was the same as this too.

J

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Really pleased get back to working on my trail rig - even if it has only been a couple of snatched moments at lunch time.

It stops me browsing eBay for 'bargains'! :D 

The activity for today has been to undo the top mounts for the front dampers on my JK trail rig. This has entailed removing the motor.

Once repositioned,  I can add the panhard mount, steering servo and make sure the panhard rod is the correct length.

Slowly getting there.

 

 

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Put the electrics in my WW2 which has been on the sidelines for far too long, I’ll get these finished soon and then I’ll order the paint in readiness of the warmer weather arriving in the next few months. 

I also checked out my summer Blitzer Beetle purchase which I am either going to run this spring when we go on holiday or sell as I have 2 of these.

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Start converting my Bullhead chassis to servo-on-axle mod for better 4 WS. And as always, I underestimated the effort...:lol:

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