So, What Have You Done Today?

[ThunderDragonCy 7873]

Yes, every saturday night at greasley leisure centre. 5.15 onwards, racing at 6

[TurnipJF 9187]

25 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Basically 17.5 touring car, any body shell, but has to be a tub chassis. No carbon. My TA06 would be eligable as is. So would your TT02. They are keeping the 17t brushed iconic style rules in that class too. It's basically touring cars, but without any of the REALLY fast guys!

Sorry - not quite getting it. Is it 17.5t brushless or 17t brushed, or just one or the other? Sounds like fun either way. Any battery restrictions? What are race fees like? Is there a junior class? (Might bring my nephew.) Do tell us more!

[Blista 1519]

Had an idea yesterday.  Drift Jimny.

[Superluminal 3750]

That looks great!

[yogi-bear 2315]

over my Christmas break I was hoping to complete an Audi A4 BTCC, but this is a far as I got, the chassis with a lot of bling, but didn't get a chance to start on the body. Also with the fancy rotors and the disc brake callipers that stay stationary, the Tamiya rims don't fit hence the cheap black rims. So I'll have to work out something for that. I'll eventually start a build thread for this too.

Any tips on adjusting and setting up the chamber angles too would be appreciated 

 

 

 

[ThunderDragonCy 7873]

9 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Sorry - not quite getting it. Is it 17.5t brushless or 17t brushed, or just one or the other? Sounds like fun either way. Any battery restrictions? What are race fees like? Is there a junior class? (Might bring my nephew.) Do tell us more!

It's both! If you are on Facebook look for Broxtowe Model Car Club. It was the Iconic rules (17t brushed, scale body, chassis anything up to TA04, open tyres, open battery) which morfed a few months bqck into Tamiya class (same tech regs but any tamiya tub chassis) and they have just renamed it Clubman touring and allowed 17.5 brushless blinky and race shells and other brands, but still restricted to tub chassis. 10th touring was getting busy so i suspect it is to tempt people like myself who have already invested in 10th Touring electrics and shells to step down to make the faster class less crowded and less speed difference, plus there's a fairly handy guy in Tamiya class with a TA05 and Raikiri body who needs some competition. 

[Re-Bugged 10100]

Cut the body out on the Wild One which is a fiddly job to say the least considering how little there is of it, still need to clean up the edges. I'm liking the look of Scorcher wheels over the stock kit pepper pot lid ones.        What is it with Tamiya and white wheels on off road vehicles? 

I've also had to modify the exit hole for the Lipo battery wires that are in a slightly different place and stiffer than a standard stick pack.

The Shocks are a a work of art in these things.

And hopefully make the trip to Rocky at the weekend for a tin of paint or 2.

[mtbkym01 4008]

4 hours ago, yogi-bear said:

over my Christmas break I was hoping to complete an Audi A4 BTCC, but this is a far as I got, the chassis with a lot of bling, but didn't get a chance to start on the body. Also with the fancy rotors and the disc brake callipers that stay stationary, the Tamiya rims don't fit hence the cheap black rims. So I'll have to work out something for that. I'll eventually start a build thread for this too.

Any tips on adjusting and setting up the chamber angles too would be appreciated 

 

 

 

I’ve to some of these discs that I plan to use on a TT chassis for my Bug eye black WRX shell, that will sport some MST wheels. Hoping they fit behind the wheels 

[yogi-bear 2315]

1 minute ago, mtbkym01 said:

I’ve to some of these discs that I plan to use on a TT chassis for my Bug eye black WRX shell, that will sport some MST wheels. Hoping they fit behind the wheels 

those rims look nice, what are they? They should fit the discs' too. 

[mtbkym01 4008]

5 minutes ago, yogi-bear said:

those rims look nice, what are they? They should fit the discs' too. 

They’re a MST wheel I bought from my LHS a couple years ago that I was going to use on a drifter, I can’t remember exactly what model they are unfortunately.

**edit - found them http://www.rc-mst.com/product_other.php?class_sn=2&class_sn2=64

they have a big range of wheels that all look very high quality. Just not sure how available they are in Aus anymore, but the interwebs opens up the whole wide world doesn’t it 😂

[yogi-bear 2315]

5 minutes ago, mtbkym01 said:

They’re a MST wheel I bought from my LHS a couple years ago that I was going to use on a drifter, I can’t remember exactly what model they are unfortunately.

and as soon as I hit send, I realised you't mentioned the name at the top of the post 

[Mad Ax 9306]

Surprised myself (yet again) at how expensive this hobby seems to be getting, especially when trail-blazing outside the official hop-up route and trying to do it all as cheap as possible.

I've been out of the hop-up scene for a while because I've been working a lot on custom stuff.  I've enjoyed playing around with electronics because the components are dirt cheap.  A quarter of a month's leisure budget can buy me a massive haul of parts to stock up my supplies.

But through December and Jan I've been working on 3 projects.  Fitting a Beier light/sound/speed module into one of my big rigs (which requires a full custom installation of LEDs and resistors as it is supplied as a bare unit only, unlike the Tamiya units which come with all the LEDs pre-wired and ready to fit), trying to get my Mod Clod to perform better than a Lunchbox, and building an NIB WT-01 into a reasonable 4x4 performer.

First, I needed all new wire supplies for the Beier installation.  It comes with a 10-wire ribbon cable to operate the basic lighting options, and I wanted my installation to be colour-coded to the standard ribbon, so I had a lot of different wire reels to buy.  I do a lot with wiring and I want to do more Beier installs, so I figured I might as well buy at least 10m of each colour and lots more white and black since those are used for power transmission across every feature.  Before I knew it I'd spent a fair wedge just on wire reels.

Then I discovered I was running out of heatshrink and spiral wrap.  I'm all done with the first phase of Beier wiring (I still need to design and print new roof, reverse and fog lights for the Globe Liner but I'll run it without those to start with) but I still need to tidy the wiring.  So today I placed an order for more spiral wrap and heatshrink.  Oh, and the unit comes with some very odd motor connector terminals, so I've also splashed out on a multi-pack of motor bullets as I was all out.

That leads me on to the Mod Clod, which is still running Traxxas connectors with adaptor leads on its EVX-2 speedo.  Long flyleads aren't good for a speedo but I was all out of Deans connectors, so today I also ordered a 20-pack to refill my stocks.

I'd also added some 20Kg servos with alu horns.  The Alturn MGs with Kimbro servo savers just couldn't keep the beast in a straight line.  They were £29.99 for a pair from Amazon.  Pretty cheap for a pair of 20Kg servos but add to the money I've already spend in December and it's starting to look like a big budget build, not a bargain basement job.

Last week I was trying to tune the Clod suspension.  Basically it doesn't seem to have any.  The shocks are already angle-mounted (about 40 degrees from vertical) but they don't sag at all and won't compress under articulation.  It's a heavy rig so there should be at least some static sag.  The shocks haven't been used much but I got them a decade or more ago.  They came with one set of springs which are quite hard.  I've fitted softer springs but they don't really fit right.  So last week I ordered some Yeah Racing internal spring shocks from RCMart.  The price was actually good but I ended up ordering 2 sets plus some from another manufacturer, as I have a few requirements for 100mm shocks coming up.  I just hope they all perform reasonably well because shocks from respected manufacturers like Schumacher, Traxxas, Kyosho and Tamiya are really getting quite pricey.  I would have just used Tamiya CVAs but I'm not 100% sure the plastic ball connectors can handle the bigger impacts.  I regularly popped shocks on my modded TXT before I with a tougher installation.

This weekend - with the other projects waiting for parts - I turned my attention to the WR-01.  I built it in stock configuration in a few hours (never built one before, surprised at how quick it came together, even when I opened up the stock transmission to fit bearings).  I still need to make the friction shocks and bolt on the wheels and install all the electrics (still waiting on servo delivery from Hobbyking - yet another pre-Christmas expense) - I have promised myself I'll run it stock to work out where it needs to be improved.  I have already ordered a pair of Tamiya CVA kits and some Yeah Racing swing shafts for the inevitable 4x4 conversion (fortunately I already have a spare transmission with bearings fitted or that would be yet another cost).  A new dual motor 3S-safe speedo was part of a post-Christmas expense (along with steel pinions for the WR-01 and for the Clod).  Today I'll decide whether I should buy a turnbuckle kit for the upper arms (I need to work out what will fit) or just use threaded bar, because I'll want a bit of adjustability (and maybe need it for the swing shafts).  IIRC I'm all out of threaded bar too, 4mm is a quick B&Q purchase but 3mm is yet another special order from ebay.

The one thing I haven't bought is a set of shock towers for the 100mm conversion.  TBH I've spent enough and just want to stop.  I'll design my own in Fusion and print them on the resin printer.  Actually I think I'm running low on resin, and I could do with experimenting with a tougher resin anyway as I've had too many breakages, so that will be yet another moderate cost on the horizon.  Or maybe I'll have my friend print my towers on his FDL printer and save the hassle of brittle resin...

Anyway, the bizarre thing here is that none of these builds are big-ticket projects (with the exception of the Beier unit in the Globe Liner).  The Mod Clod was largely built with stuff I had lying around and the WR-01 isn't supposed to be a top-dollar project.  I've really got stung by four problems all at once: 1) almost all of my supply pots (heatshrink, motor connectors, battery connectors etc) have run dry at the same time; 2) I've had to create new supply pots (wire reels); 3) the Clod found the limits of cheap / used components and couldn't progress without upgrades; 4) the WR-01 was started from scratch on a whim with absolutely no useful parts in my stash box to help me get started.

Hopefully I won't need to order too many more things now - it's time to let the paypal account cool off a little...

[Oneball1971 127]

PayPal cool off??? I think you need to let your keyboard cool off after that post 

[KingBabbo 4]

Airbrushed my first coat of primer on my lunch box today. This paint job is gonna take a while........

The chassisi itself had already been build 2 weeks ago.

[jonboy1 2943]

3 minutes ago, KingBabbo said:

First coat of primer on my lunch box today. This paint job is gonna take a while........

The chassis had already been build 2 weeks ago.

Red chassis?  What paint job will it have?

[KingBabbo 4]

Most boring box art yellow I am thinking.......

[Ray_ve 1043]

At this moment.... 

I'm really really struggling to resist a Marui Shogun that is advertised at this moment.... 

[J@mes 2326]

 

fight(er buggy) night 
 
 

 

 

[lsear2905 1279]

6 hours ago, J@mes said:

 

Can you please confirm if those wheels #53059, are the exact same size as a standard 2.2 buggy rear tire?

Most of my day has been spent at work hitting F5, waiting to see if my DT02 has been delivered at home, and seeing what tires I can use on the rear! I also ordered replacement body posts for a TT01, magnetic body mounts and the D parts for the DT02, because I need one servo post and I figured having spare arms couldn't hurt...

[J@mes 2326]

1 hour ago, lsear2905 said:

Can you please confirm if those wheels #53059, are the exact same size as a standard 2.2 buggy rear tire?

Most of my day has been spent at work hitting F5, waiting to see if my DT02 has been delivered at home, and seeing what tires I can use on the rear! I also ordered replacement body posts for a TT01, magnetic body mounts and the D parts for the DT02, because I need one servo post and I figured having spare arms couldn't hurt...

Hi @lsear2905 bit more info for you there. The DT01 wheel I have is 2 1/4” by 1 11/32” by my measuring 

 

[Mad Ax 9306]

Started to build a speaker box to mount the new 80cm speaker in my Globe Liner.  But there must be a misprint in the speaker specs on the mfr website because apparently it needs a box size of 14 litres 

So I gave up with that and mounted the Proline F250 body on my new-built Mud Blaster 2.  I then realised I could solve the odd wheelbase issue by designing and printing some modified bottom arms - so I spent the rest of the night in front of Fusion 360 teaching myself about variables and getting horribly stuck.  Back to basics tonight and plug it all in by hand, unless I decide to finish the wiring on the Globe instead.

[matman 1499]

On 6 January 2020 at 7:02 AM, Blista said:

Had an idea yesterday.  Drift Jimny.

How did it go ?. 

[J@mes 2326]

21 hours ago, KingBabbo said:

Most boring box art yellow I am thinking.......

Ah but WHICH yellow? 

[ThunderDragonCy 7873]

Got fluoro wheels back on Ultra G again. Local pro gave away loads of old pin drive rear wheels with really good tyres glued on. I have pin drive on my TRF211 so I picked a bunch up, but these Losi rims are a perfect match for the Super G fronts, and after I cracked the vintage Super G rears ages ago I've wanted to get this sorted. Ended up using spare DN01 long axles for the pin drive, and finally got them working using the genius Schumacher U4124 5mm shims. Pack the space between the bearings in the upright with shims, use old 850 bushings to space out from the outer bearing face to the pin, install wheel. Lovely free spinning, tightly installed wheels. And did I mention Fluoro yellow?

[J@mes 2326]

Just pulled 70% of a kit out the dishwasher lookin’ shiiiny like new