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Swapped an XT60 plug onto one of the HW1060s and put it in the Top Force with the Super stock TZ. It all runs fine but I was using NiMH and it felt slow. Will mow the lawn and then try lipo and it should be just a bit too fast for the backyard. I think I'm going to have to order 50529 to get the right FDR for the motor though, will check temps but i reckon its going to get hot.

I also remembered how much i hate soldering, and then remembered i have a new ESC coming for my HB D418 which will require more soldering.

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Today I posted on the TC forums under the Kyosho section on a Ferrari project,,,,it has been months since I posted anything and it felt refreshing to do so.............Also cleaned up the workspace after arriving home from work today and dug out another project I've had in mind,,,1970 Mustang. Have to finish the Ferrari 250 GTO first though. Another contender for being built is my NIB Tamiya Cobra Mustang TL-01 kit.

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Began the early stages of my brat body project. Should be interesting and fun. Here's a sneak peek more will be posted in my build thread here:  LE Brat

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14 hours ago, matman said:

How did it go ?. 

Not great to be honest.  The wheelbase and having the motor out the rear adds a lot of weight bias to make the MF01X very snappy.  There's no real suspension adjustments to a stock MF01X and I didn't lock the rear diff or anything.

The real thing performs much better:

 

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Sold my spare Super Champ steering rods!

I will recycle the money into some small RC related purchases when the buyer has received them. 
 

I thinking paint for the WW2 and some XT90 plugs or a soldering jig. 

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Visited the Mercedes-Benz museum in Stuttgart. Found a lot of Tamiyas in 1:1 scale :D

my phone camera struggled a little bit because of the low light conditions.

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So I built this to the point of having the body cut out about 1-2 years ago

Today i decide to finish it and after about 6 hours this is it..... Box art with a slight variation being Mica red, no black flares as i feel it gives it a cleaner more modern look

now on the shelf next to my Frog :D

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7 minutes ago, KalEl63 said:

So I built this to the point of having the body cut out about 1-2 years ago

Today i decide to finish it and after about 6 hours this is it..... Box art with a slight variation being Mica red, no black flares as i feel it gives it a cleaner more modern look

now on the shelf next to my Frog :D

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Really nice! 

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9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I also remembered how much i hate soldering, and then remembered i have a new ESC coming for my HB D418 which will require more soldering.

Perhaps take the bits & pieces to your club meet armed with a few beers, and I’m sure a willing volunteer will be happy to solder for you??

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   Ordered a set of Scorcher wheels, rear tyres  & screws for the alloy wheel covers I have for my Wild One. 
    I contemplated buying a Grasshopper for the wheels as it was only as much money again? That would either give me another little project or build a Tennis themed ‘hopper for my son for a giggle 🤔
   

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11 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

 ....build a Tennis themed ‘hopper for my son for a giggle 🤔
   

how does that look? :) are you wrapping it in fluoro yellow furry flocking? :D

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So I received my Kumamon buggy in the post on Tuesday, so I gave it a quick inspection, then last night got to work properly. I've put in a pre-rusted 540 silver can (the 380 is too small and didn't work well with my ESC, anyway).

I need new tires for the rear (I mounted up some worn out ones for the time being) and servo posts, otherwise it's ready for the beach! I didn't paint the red plastic body - this will be used at the beach and really don't see the point of painting a red plastic shell red. I applied most of the stickers so if I ever do turn it into a shelf queen I'll regret not painting it, because you can't replace those stickers. Lucky I don't do "shelf queens"!

I have next week off work, so off to Mornington beach on Monday if all the parts arrive!

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Spooged some filler over scrapes to the wing on a DT01 

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not the most exciting activity :rolleyes:

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1 pair of turnbuckles turned up so i got the front of my TT02 TYPE S done after tea and the lovely Fibre Lyte top deck

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Despite building to manual the driveshafts seem tight, like they are too long, and camber seems positive. Does anyone know if the 51353 reversible arms that are off my basic TA06 are shorter than the 51297 reversible arms in the Type S kit? I thought they were the same? Mine are 53mm from pin to pin if anyone has some others to hand to measure. 

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Ive had most of an egress for a year now, bought the kit just to rob the shocks for my vanquish. I then sold some of the egress bits.

Well, ive now bought some of those bits back and stripped the vanquish to build the egress instead. Had to use the prop, front prop joint and gearbox cases from the vanquish, the rest is new rere egress. Just need to find some alloy wing mounts (BD22). 

Got the body cut out today, will sand the edges tomorrow ready for paint.

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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

1 pair of turnbuckles turned up so i got the front of my TT02 TYPE S done after tea and the lovely Fibre Lyte top deck

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Despite building to manual the driveshafts seem tight, like they are too long, and camber seems positive. Does anyone know if the 51353 reversible arms that are off my basic TA06 are shorter than the 51297 reversible arms in the Type S kit? I thought they were the same? Mine are 53mm from pin to pin if anyone has some others to hand to measure. 

Just measured - mine are also 53mm pin-to-pin. I also found the dogbones to be a bit tight when I first put mine together, but once the urethane bushings had compressed down and conformed to the inner shape of the drive cups, things freed up nicely.

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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

1 pair of turnbuckles turned up so i got the front of my TT02 TYPE S done after tea and the lovely Fibre Lyte top deck

Im really keen on one of these - Did you have to use the separate aluminium standoff spacers to fit this? The rcracer website confused me a bit - I couldnt tell whether it was a direct fit on the type-s gearbox covers with spacers or whether the spacers were only needed to adjust the chassis stiffness in the deck and it would fit without them.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Im really keen on one of these - Did you have to use the separate aluminium standoff spacers to fit this? The rcracer website confused me a bit - I couldnt tell whether it was a direct fit on the type-s gearbox covers with spacers or whether the spacers were only needed to adjust the chassis stiffness in the deck and it would fit without them.

The standoffs go between the propshaft drive cup bearing holder and the forward-of-middle pair of attachment points on the Fibrelyte top deck, used if you want a stiffer setup as shown in @ThunderDragonCy's build. If you prefer more flex, you can omit them and just use the endmost pairs of attachment points which are a direct fit onto the gearbox covers with no spacers required. This is the approach I took with my build.

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28 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Just measured - mine are also 53mm pin-to-pin. I also found the dogbones to be a bit tight when I first put mine together, but once the urethane bushings had compressed down and conformed to the inner shape of the drive cups, things freed up nicely.

Thanks for the reassurance. I would have been annoyed to need more arms as they were the whole reason for this build! I'll run it and see. 

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@Superluminal You don't need the standoffs, they just stiffen the chassis. The top deck is super simple, just screw it to the gearbox tops. The spacer talk is if you are running it on a regular TT02 because the inner arms mounts are on top of the gearbox so you need slightly longer standoffs for the optional extra screws. 

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Phew, second job of the day completed, tax return done!

Time to plan what new tamiyas my tax refund will pay for 😎

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