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So, What Have You Done Today?

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Well.... I've been getting going on my first FF Chassis Car, the FF-03!! 

Starting with some OVERKILL!!! 😜 spacer.pngThanks to the 2.4GHz Radio, I can do enough adjustments to keep this 20kg Servo from RIPPING apart the Steering Gear!! 

In the FF03, the Servo is held in with the typical two Screws.... But the support is a wide open Plastic Frame, that leaves the Servo basically hanging over the side of the Chassis, COMPLETELY open and exposed to Road Debris and abrasives!! I'm compelled to FIX that! spacer.png.... I'm notorious for making odd shapes out of Styrene. 😜

spacer.pngLike THIS!! I've filled the hole...... 

spacer.pngJust a bit of reengineering!! 😉 

spacer.pngAND it will also help prevent Pebbles from being kicked into the Steering by the Tires!! 

spacer.pngTried to make it look as good as possible... but its first function, IS function! 

spacer.pngOf COURSE my OCD had to do the OTHER side - so it's symmetrical!!! 😜

I'm really having so much fun building AND modifying this! BTW, they DO clear the Body on each side, by at least 18mm. 😊

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20 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

Well.... I've been getting going on my first FF Chassis Car, the FF-03!! 

Starting with some OVERKILL!!! 😜 spacer.pngThanks to the 2.4GHz Radio, I can do enough adjustments to keep this 20kg Servo from RIPPING apart the Steering Gear!! 

In the FF03, the Servo is held in with the typical two Screws.... But the support is a wide open Plastic Frame, that leaves the Servo basically hanging over the side of the Chassis, COMPLETELY open and exposed to Road Debris and abrasives!! I'm compelled to FIX that! spacer.png.... I'm notorious for making odd shapes out of Styrene. 😜

spacer.pngLike THIS!! I've filled the hole...... 

spacer.pngJust a bit of reengineering!! 😉 

spacer.pngAND it will also help prevent Pebbles from being kicked into the Steering by the Tires!! 

spacer.pngTried to make it look as good as possible... but its first function, IS function! 

spacer.pngOf COURSE my OCD had to do the OTHER side - so it's symmetrical!!! 😜

I'm really having so much fun building AND modifying this! BTW, they DO clear the Body on each side, by at least 18mm. 😊

Quality 👍

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8 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Quality 👍

Thank you so much!! Really means a lot to me.   I am actually taking just a bit extra Pride with this. I've wanted to get into the FF Chassis Cars for so long!

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Added a small FPV camera to the front of my FF03 speed run body, a Lexus Eneos from a TB04, I got from a buddy and added a spoiler,

its a powerbank 8000mAh battery with 3,7V just right for the camera that runs on 5V. Also 8000mAh should be plenty for the 25mW vtx on it. 
 

the idea is to use a fpv monitor to track the car and its behavior far away as gaining speed for speed runs. Trying to take all possibilities in order to beat my buddys 113kmh speed record. This car can do it, maybe the gears need a little adjustment... because last time the car went so far I could not hit the brakes on time also it was hard to follow and see whats is happening. 

AyoKsok.jpg

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Adds up some nice weight, prolly in the 300-400gr range this combo.

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Finally bit the bullet and stripped my TL01 down to fit ball bearings. Before doing that, for such a car that takes 24 (!) bushings/bearings I thought I'd break out the watt meter and see if there's much difference electrically. 

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First off here's with the nylon my bushings 

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Bit of a difference. My battery wasn't on best form but it was close enough both times for the comparison. 4.36A for bushings and 2.96A for bearings!  It also looks like the voltage sagged less too. The car feels a lot smoother as is customary but I really noticed how much quieter it is now.
 

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just finished those Tamiya two-piece wheels today. i painted the wheel centers in silver, and the back in matt black to hide the chromed center behind. assembled with 3Racing M2.6 x 8 titanium screws so i can use a hex tool, and save some weight.

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the titanium screws reduces the weight for the 20 screws needed for 4 wheels from 9.10 g, to 4.58 g. saving 50.33% weight on the screws.

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the tires i glued yesterday went well, not big gaps away from the rim on the outer side, some were on the inner side but another layer should hold it well. i had 1 bubble on the outer side of the rims. i glued 2 of the spare tires inner sides. the glue job is a bit messy but i wanted to be sure the bead was solid. its a shame i cant really put them to use soon, i dont know why the asphalt destroyed my OG plastic rims mounted on drift tires. maybe the surface was too rough for the hex forms (or just my driving) or i didnt put enough tension on the stock CVA shocks. i just put a spacer to remove the slack on the springs.

does it matter if the drift tires might be 2mm slimmer than the rims? i do have some that will fit better  but one OG rim is still good and the other 3 drift tires are spare for 1 rim...

IMG_4237a.jpg

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Finished up building the new dampers and fitted them on the TT02, I've got a strange feeling we built the car a little incorrectly as it sits higher at the front than the back, but anyway they are fitted.

Then we ruined them in the snow!

DSC_3346.JPG

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3 hours ago, Nwc100 said:

Finished up building the new dampers and fitted them on the TT02, I've got a strange feeling we built the car a little incorrectly as it sits higher at the front than the back, but anyway they are fitted.

Then we ruined them in the snow!

DSC_3346.JPG

Love those dampers, have them on my ta01 and ta04 B)

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Finished this today, it was a ta02 but the body didn't sit right, was a few mm out, so I changed to the longer ta01 tub and flipped the rear arms to get the correct chassis length. 

 

Screenshot_20210116_124223.thumb.jpg.978e674b7be3a609955404d39733de99.jpg

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Also rebuilt the Nissan 300zx :wub:

It was a new built chassis already, never been run, but it had a few mistakes here and there so I stripped it down and rebuilt it as per the manual. 

Screenshot_20210116_174544.thumb.jpg.3ce92c41bdbe73f34f637a43e209e0c2.jpg

So now I have a massive problem, painting it :ph34r:

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Got the front servo relocation mount installed so now I can finally finish the build.

 

09D4034A-2899-47A7-A87F-C0EAA4A07212.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Wez-li said:

Also rebuilt the Nissan 300zx :wub:

It was a new built chassis already, never been run, but it had a few mistakes here and there so I stripped it down and rebuilt it as per the manual. 

Screenshot_20210116_174544.thumb.jpg.3ce92c41bdbe73f34f637a43e209e0c2.jpg

So now I have a massive problem, painting it :ph34r:

Thats crying out for a carbon chassis my friend and best of luck with the painting 👍

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Spent the whole weekend at the track. The shop I buy a lot of my offroad gear from hired the club track for 2 days, test and tune kind of thing. Ran about 25 tanks in my HB D817, good times. New track layout and I haven't run that car for a year. Got my times down from 47sec laps to 41sec and a lot more consistent through a combination of better setup and practice. Still a long way to go to get to the a main when the season starts. My son loved it and wants an 8th e-Buggy now and is working on my wife. If he gets one then I can go to all the 8th scale meets...

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so i learned a 2ml bottle of krazy glue ($5) only can glue 6-7 1:10 rc tires. i had a 2nd one purchased at the very same time so i was able to finish gluing the 6th tire. im just waiting for the MST tire kit so i can then try remove and fit the rubber tires on some aluminum rims. i dont regret buying those 2 2ml bottles of krazy glue. depending on the tip size i might buy a newer bigger bottles, that or permatex ultrabond super glue if the tip is the right size. the small 1-2mm tip on the krazy glue bottle works well.

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36 minutes ago, nel33 said:

so i learned a 2ml bottle of krazy glue ($5) only can glue 6-7 1:10 rc tires. i had a 2nd one purchased at the very same time so i was able to finish gluing the 6th tire. im just waiting for the MST tire kit so i can then try remove and fit the rubber tires on some aluminum rims. i dont regret buying those 2 2ml bottles of krazy glue. depending on the tip size i might buy a newer bigger bottles, that or permatex ultrabond super glue if the tip is the right size. the small 1-2mm tip on the krazy glue bottle works well.

Sometimes is better to buy more small bottles. i got my 10ml bottle not in used for half a year and it went dry

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24 minutes ago, Fabia130vRS said:

Sometimes is better to buy more small bottles. i got my 10ml bottle not in used for half a year and it went dry

thanks, i got the small bottles for the tiny spout, i had enough of the bigger spouts from gorilla glue. i was afraid that first bottle was shot after the first round of glue as it dried in the spout but a longer needle broke that seal. i havent had much experience with gorilla super glue but it was much thicker than the krazy glue so my choice was obvious. im hoping it hold the tires well.

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On 1/10/2021 at 5:28 PM, Grumpy pants said:

 

5-F3-D150-C-1-CCA-460-D-9201-ECD6229329-

I accepted an offer on my Wild One this morning,  just waiting for the item to be paid for now.

I’ll try and not spend the proceeds straight away on another Tamiya 🤦

But as the WO was my next project that kinda does justify the WW2 kit I am hankerings after or do I buy a chassis for my Phat Mini body and try my hand at lexan... 

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Took a few snaps of my Christmas Beetle:

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20210117_133219

 

20210117_133306

 

The black moulded hardbody that comes with the Black Edition will be finished to a high standard over the course of the next few months, with excess holes plastic welded shut, a high-gloss paint finish, very carefully applied decals, driver figure, etc. However this will be solely for shelf display. For running, it will wear the shell seen here - a Kamtec Baja moulding decorated with leftover stickers from other projects. The roof is bare for now - it will likely receive a custom vinyl from our local tattoo studio when they re-open after lockdown. I particularly like this shell because it gives a lot of freedom as to how it is trimmed, including giving the wide-eye option which I prefer to the narrow-eye look.

The chassis is mostly stock, but there are a few hop-ups fitted to the car, some of which you can see in the final photo. In addition to the MIP diff, rubber-sealed bearings and black alloy wheel nuts that are present but not visible, you can see the Miniature Manufacturing alloy rear hubs, the Ampro sintered steel swing arm braces, the TT-02B receiver box and the generic Chinese rebuildable 27t motor which I stripped down and painted a rich copper colour, lacquered for a hard-wearing finish, then rebuilt with better-quality bearings and brushes, trued the comm and advanced the timing.

The well-known issue with the universals popping out over jumps has been addressed by building the shocks with internal spacers which prevent the rear suspension from dropping low enough for this to occur.

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Bought a batch of two used Super Fighter GR, three radios (including 2.4 gHz) and a lot of spare parts for 80€ posted. I guess I've made a good deal. :D

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Finished the Terra Scorcher driver this morning. If you are wondering why the back of the chassis cover is warped like that, I had to do it because otherwise the body shell wouldn't fit. Now it does fit well and the warping isn't really noticeable once the cover is installed, it bothers me way less than having to jam down the shell anyway. Wondering if anybody else has had that issue?

Anyway here's my take on Mr. Arnold Applewhite :lol:

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Removed the rear damper mounts from my trail rig for the nth time. Had a look at what I need to do to make rear mounts v2.

More importantly, renewed my Tamiyaclub subscription!

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