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Speaking of decals, redid 4 star decals from the factory decals to these thicker decals my wife made which have a nicer solid white finish.  

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My daughter cut out her Cliffhanger body.  
 

Round 1 - rough cut about 1/4” from the trim line with the abrasive wheel

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2 - cut 1/8” from the trim line with the drum sander

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3 - rounded the fenders with a flapwheel

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4 - cleaned off the schmutz with a scrap of sandpaper

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5 - straightened the sides and front with a block sander

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6 - gave ‘er a wash and contemplated graphics

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I ran my RC10 in anger for the first time since I've restored it last year. It's incredible how fun and rewarding it is, I just couldn't stop driving it. Despite all the hype, it's still quite something to find out for oneself how precise, silent and efficient it is. It really does hug the ground it runs on. The old stock motor feels a bit sleepy and will probably be replaced by something hotter soon, but besides that the car feels great and like it could easily handle a lot more power.

Took it for a Postal racing run as well, and it beat two of the other three cars that participated at the first attempt on wet grass.

Very happy with it so far, can't wait to drive it more and maybe try a hotter motor soon.

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I've always wondered how you trim a lean body with a Dremel @SupraChrgd82, now I don't have to search YouTube!

Good luck with that colour scheme!

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6 hours ago, Ferruz said:

I ran my RC10 in anger for the first time since I've restored it last year. It's incredible how fun and rewarding it is, I just couldn't stop driving it. Despite all the hype, it's still quite something to find out for oneself how precise, silent and efficient it is. It really does hug the ground it runs on. The old stock motor feels a bit sleepy and will probably be replaced by something hotter soon, but besides that the car feels great and like it could easily handle a lot more power.

Took it for a Postal racing run as well, and it beat two of the other three cars that participated at the first attempt on wet grass.

Very happy with it so far, can't wait to drive it more and maybe try a hotter motor soon

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Another kit I dreamed on having back in the 80s but never had one. I used to stare and drool over magazines, hobby shops shelves, pit tables, and race tracks. But I couldn't afford it. It was a world champion for several years and every 2wd buggy driver would certainly want it. 

Nice pictures as usual. 

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Did a little work on the little Axials today, added tungsten putty to the front bumpers  and tucked them in a couple mm, after that, Dad and I took a cruise to a LHS and picked up Yeah Racing beadlocks and RC4wd tires, as well as a set of  SCT style Proline Badlands and DE racing dishes for my Bandit and got things put together.

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then here’s the turf rolling stock for my Bandit as well as it with the pavement set, it’s kinda nutty as it is, should be interesting to see how it runs with these too.

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6 hours ago, SupraChrgd82 said:

I was handed a clear body (above post) and instructed to paint these graphics

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i hope you have a sticker sheet in stock. its not an impossible paint job but a few exterior stickers will make it easier to paint out smaller areas. i hope it turns out nice, its a very nice pattern on the body.

i tried ordering a Flysky FS-GT5 from Amazon.ca but they didnt accept my local address or a few local postal office addresses.... i found the translitter for a better price minus shipping from RCmart and i also ordered a spare receiver. im crossing my fingers they dont have restrictions to ship the transmitter to me... 

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I honestly dreaded doing this as I have no interest in 1:18 scale, but since I wanted to get it out of the way, I finished the chassis today.  I will paint a new factory FiestaST body later on.  The chassis originally came with a BMW body which I still have but pretty beat up.

Back in 2000 when these things were new, I installed an AM radio off some Tamtec car I had.  Today I changed the wheelbase to the shorter setting, the belt is new old stock and it binds the belt tract so I need to break it in before going for a drive.  Installed a 1625, some basic Futaba servo I had, and my usual Spektrum receiver since I did not want to spend money on a new FAAST receiver for my 4PSK-R.  I run my Futaba radio for onroads usually.  

Before.. (btw those are my Willy's foot prints all over the paper)

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New battery pack..

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I also have a one-way, but did not install it this time.   

UPDATE:  So ended up HPI changed the belt thickness from these original kits to recent.  The belt was nearly 0.3mm thicker on the new belt vs the original causing it to bind against the chassis.  I had to shim the bulkhead to get some clearance.  Now runs fine.

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Painted my first buggy body for the Pizzabuggy (Associated RC10 B6.3D). Spent a couple of hours building the transmission and diff. Learned to hate ball differentials. Nothing in my TT-02 prepared me for building an Associated kit. The instructions are more vague, the steps are less granular, and the screws cam out way easier. It'll be worth it to get to race 2wd Buggy on Friday nights, but man is it frustrating.

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22 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Juhunio - Body looks good so far!

Trick for doing larger decals is to use distilled water in a spray or mist bottle, wet the body, wet your fingers (prevents finger print marks in clear decals), wet the adhesive side, apply, reposition as needed, then silicon squeegee the water out.    A little heat at the end to press down the edges is a good way to finish off.   

I do vinyl and clear bra installations on my real cars and the only time I use soapy solution is while doing very large sheets, but for that I also use tack solution.  Both not needed for RC decals, just distilled water.    GL.  

Cheers for that, I've never used water or heat before so this will be a first. Fingers crossed!

Is there a 1/10 scale silicone squeegee :lol:?? Or a tool of choice worth recommending? 

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Located a pair of new-on-sprue upper front arms for my WW2. :D

Even if I can't find the originals, I should have the hardware required to mount them in my assorted screws, etc.

I might treat the WW2 to some new body posts as I found some of those too!

Got haul out the plastic crate that contains my WW and WW2 parts and see if I still have the broken part from the front that holds on the suspension U-pin and determine whether I can fix it. 

There might be a new driver in there too!

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1 hour ago, Juhunio said:

Cheers for that, I've never used water or heat before so this will be a first. Fingers crossed!

Is there a 1/10 scale silicone squeegee :lol:?? Or a tool of choice worth recommending? 

No problem, with distilled water the adhesion drops about 70% temporarily so you can safely peel off the decal to reposition without risking stretching or tearing the decal.  I also use a pair of fine pointed tweezers to apply. 

It's also good to wet the non-adhesive side of the decal or your squeegee before you squeegee the water out as it will keep the motion smooth and scratch free.  This is what my squeegee looks like.  You can buy a bigger one and just cut it to size if you can't find a small one.   

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Heat works great to contour the decal to the shape of your body too.  For example the headlight and blinker on my Mini goes on without a fuss with some heat.  

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One thing about modding my HS2 runner steering was I didn’t think about how the front skid plate would work with them. Had to fit two spacers. Maybe I should try modding a counter sink screw? Think that would make the plastic too weak though.

DF02 CVDs finally arrived as well so checked the length and then swapped the dog bones out. 

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Cynan - I agree with your assessment on weakening the plastic with a counter sunk screw.  I would keep it as is for now since there appears to be a lower point of the chassis beyond the screwhead.  

Worst case I would make an aluminum skid plate.  

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2 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Drove my new super astute ! This thing is pretty sweet. 

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They are a nice buggy eh. Seeing this and @Juhunio build I really should get mine going properly. It just needs the rear wing reattaching, and I should shorten the front shocks a bit, but really should just use it

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On 4/18/2021 at 4:30 PM, mongoose1983 said:

Alright, I got the original Super Champ ready and finished...except I'm missing the silver for the side air intakes :(

As you will see in the pictures, the Testors "Ruby Red" almost looks black on all bars-plastic and alu ones. It was the closest thing to red enamel that I had at hand. Still, it doesn't look totally off. I am liking the project, now only missing the silver detail. I never liked the original rear tires, so while I still have the orig ones, I like to use the old Scorcher paddles for this one. Also, in the future I plan to change the driver's colors for both, clothes and helmet. I'll let you see how it turns out. In the meantime here you have some pictures of the car:

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And you know, I really like the quality of the MCI decals. It's only that sometimes you have to keep your eye on them. I thought their Gumout decal was a bit off, so I used instead Budweiser bowties for the sides. Also, see what's wrong with the "GO FOR IT" decal. If you've never seen the original decal you'll probably won't notice how different it is.

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I'm using a black bumper that @beefmuffin sent me years ago. It is not original, but it is still in tune with the buggy. You guys know the original is not really black.

Still, I am smiling, it took me LONG to reach this point, and I believe the car looks decent at last :)

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Thank you @Cooltoys

Awesome work on the superchamp... Nice to see it all done. 

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12 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Heat works great to contour the decal to the shape of your body too.  For example the headlight and blinker on my Mini goes on without a fuss with some heat.  

Thanks again! 

And if I could get a bit more benefit of your experience, and avoid setting fire to anything, presumably 'heat' in this application means a hairdryer on a pretty low heat? 

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5 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Thanks again! 

And if I could get a bit more benefit of your experience, and avoid setting fire to anything, presumably 'heat' in this application means a hairdryer on a pretty low heat? 

Sure no problem.  I use a heat gun for embossing (for crafts) as it is physically smaller compared to a real heat gun and blows much less air compared to a hair dryer.  However, hair dryer will also work.  
 

I would take a few misc decals (approx 25 x 25mm) you do not need and try applying it on a curved surface (like a plastic egg or driver helmet, ping pong ball, etc) using heat to practice how much heat to apply.  I usually stick a finger over the decal being heated from time to time to monitor how much heat is being applied not to over heat the decal.  
 

Some very old decals (like the ones from the original Willy’s) can wrinkle with too much heat so best you try a misc piece from the same decal sheet before you apply heat to gauge how much it can handle just as a precaution.  I found that decals from mid-1990’s to recent have a lot more tolerance when it comes to applying heat.  New decals can withstand quite a bit of heat.

 Hope this helps!

 

 

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Roll call..!   :lol:

My NIB Willy from Osaka has not been able to get on a boat yet since early March.. maybe next month he can also join.  

I need a bigger coffee table.. 

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I am going to see whether I can fit a Spektrum receiver and ESC in the Flamingo for Billy.. 

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