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3 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Thanks!  Should I paint the roof matte black or leave it brushed aluminum?  I think I should paint that and the suspension arms black, leave the front scuff plate silver.

What do you all think?  

Keep the silver and add the silver  RC Channel suspension arms.

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Some progress.. added lights and spare, painted the front suspension arms and motor mount cover.  
 

I had to mount the tail lamps on the outside the cage due to how the spare tire mount is attached to the bars..
 

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I definitely need to paint the motor can black.. 

I got an itch for a trailer.. not good.  I think I’m coming down with the nel33 syndrome.   :lol: ;)

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Start building my new dancing rider, only sometimes I don't know why there has to be so much slop in things with tamiya, mounted the gearbox to the chassis and there was 1.5 to 2 mm play in the shaft:blink: looked at te manual a lot of times and watched a build on youtube I thought I had forgot something, but I did not, I have bearings in the chassis you could see them slide in and out of the chassis so in the end I filled the gap with a washer that fits.

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Cleaned all the bearings of that car which is a? Guess :)

 

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I reckon leave the roof unpainted @Willy iine.

Maybe some driver mesh (like on the sides of the Fighting Buggy) on the roof in between the aluminium and cage might work?
 

If you have some Black insulation tape handy just put some of that on the roof to get an idea what it would look like black though. 

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Finally found a Sand Scorcher. The new shipment got delayed but @berman helped me out with one at his LHS which wasn't really for sale. So thanks to him I have one on its way for my birthday next weekweek.

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Much like @Jonathon Gillham above, I finally found a Scorcher, the Terra variety.  www.hubhobby.com out in Minnesota seems to have a good selection of Tamiya kits.  

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4 minutes ago, tamiya_1971 said:

Much like @Jonathon Gillham above, I finally found a Scorcher, the Terra variety.  www.hubhobby.com out in Minnesota seems to have a good selection of Tamiya kits.  

There are quite a few Terra Scorchers still available down here too, no idea why since they seem to be a good value kit and others like the Top Force disappeared so quickly.

I find though that everything is available until I am in a position to actually buy it!

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1 hour ago, Re-Bugged said:

I reckon leave the roof unpainted @Willy iine.

Maybe some driver mesh (like on the sides of the Fighting Buggy) on the roof in between the aluminium and cage might work?
 

If you have some Black insulation tape handy just put some of that on the roof to get an idea what it would look like black though. 

Thanks, the mesh idea does sound interesting indeed.  I will see if my wife has some in her crafts bin.

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5 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

There are quite a few Terra Scorchers still available down here too, no idea why since they seem to be a good value kit and others like the Top Force disappeared so quickly.

I find though that everything is available until I am in a position to actually buy it!

Totally agree. I've missed a number of kits because when they're plentiful "I'll get one later..."

Buggy Champ, Sand Scorcher, Fox, FAV, RC10, Tomahawk, plus others.

Lesson learned, so I pounced on a Fighting Buggy recently.

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6 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Finally found a Sand Scorcher. The new shipment got delayed but @berman helped me out with one at his LHS which wasn't really for sale. So thanks to him I have one on its way for my birthday next weekweek.

Excellent 👍🏻
Early Happy Birthday for next week 🍻 and don’t forget the the 300 metres of masking tape you’ll need for Box Art paint job 😉

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43 minutes ago, Falcon#5 said:

Totally agree. I've missed a number of kits because when they're plentiful "I'll get one later..."

Buggy Champ, Sand Scorcher, Fox, FAV, RC10, Tomahawk, plus others.

Lesson learned, so I pounced on a Fighting Buggy recently.

The Fighting Buggy was my backup option. Funnily enough both shop owners said they had one (1 FB, 1 SS) but they were planning on keeping them for themselves. I'd do the same if I owned a LHS. It would become a museum pretty quick.

 

17 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Excellent 👍🏻
Early Happy Birthday for next week 🍻 and don’t forget the the 300 metres of masking tape you’ll need for Box Art paint job 😉

Yeah, the body is going to be something else. I'll need to look into what prep needs to be done since I see people on here say they get rid of mould lines and stuff. Never painted a hard body, but the yacht was sort of like that so hopefully it won't be too bad.

I need to look into a diff for it too. Since I upgraded the TA07 to SSBB the cost to build a new TA07 from spares is getting lower so I'll see about putting an order together for those parts too. I can set it up for 21.5 TC and my son can run it. It will be a pretty decent TC as it has all the necessary hopups and stiffeners already

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The guy I bought my Scorcher/Buggy Champ off sent me link, a bit of bedtime reading for you @Jonathon Gillham 

http://www.rcracer.com/2010/06/how-to-paint-injection-moulded-hard-plastic-bodyshells/#comment-145784

Just remember Spray Paint is like a Snake it will smell fear, show it no emotion and it will be fine 👍🏻
 

I’m sure @berman can give you some good pointers too.

Edit:- Just take care sanding out the mould line on the front quarter panels near the fuel filler cap, I was concentrating on that I nearly sanded off the end of the ‘chrome trim’ line. 

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i decided to put the rear diff gear in the casing and found i cant stop until i got the rear diff case all complete. got the aluminum prop input shaft  and all the gears assembled with metal bearings (no plastic bushing are being used in the build). mounted the aluminum Jazrider motor mount onto 18t setting for the pinion gear if im correct. it fits well on the assembled rear casing  though i havent yet locked the motor onto the rear casing. i did enough for the evening/morning in getting the parts put together for now.

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2 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

The guy I bought my Scorcher/Buggy Champ off sent me link, a bit of bedtime reading for you @Jonathon Gillham 

http://www.rcracer.com/2010/06/how-to-paint-injection-moulded-hard-plastic-bodyshells/#comment-145784

Just remember Spray Paint is like a Snake it will smell fear, show it no emotion and it will be fine 👍🏻
 

I’m sure @berman can give you some good pointers too.

Edit:- Just take care sanding out the mould line on the front quarter panels near the fuel filler cap, I was concentrating on that I nearly sanded off the end of the ‘chrome trim’ line. 

Thanks for the link, its looking a lot harder than I was expecting. Oh well, the build will last a while then.

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DIY capacitor added to the ESC

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Saturday is RC day!

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our simple layout

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Some more clumsy progress.  
 

Painted the silver can black, waiting on a few more red parts to dry (black), filed the metal plate to center the spare as it was skewed to the left for some reason, cut up my Willy body/jig to extract the RapidCool lid and fire extinguisher..I cut it so that the fire extinguisher clips onto the buggy’s roll cage as if it came that way.  :lol:

Still need to paint Willy.  
 

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30 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

Are they just soldered onto the bottom of the battery connectors?

Yes + & - battery terminals of the ESC

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nice onroad rally but you forgot the Initial D meme super eurobeat LOL. if there were places or small groups that held such races id go there.

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Did some motor rearranging 

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5 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

Video

That's so cool, bucketing down with tropical rain and you safe and dry RC'ing in an open-sided basketball court! 

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worked on the rear of the manta components, tried installing the 3x33mm  suspension pins on the rear arms to mount the rear knuckles. it was a stupidly tight fit. i needed 34mm long suspension pins. i remembered my TD set i ordered some suspension pins for GF01 WR02. the kit has 52mm  and 37mm pins. i had no use for the 37mm pins previously before just now. 7 3mm washers 3-4 on each side to put in place of the 32mm screw pin/33mm suspension pin. its not too pretty but its functional. i could've put an 8th washer but the clips are hard to remove and it wasnt a crazy slack situation so its gonna stay. from previous exp on building up and tinkering with the front half of the manta, i got all the slack removed from the metal dog bones using a rubber mat sliced thin and cut to size to fit in the holes for the dog bones. used a size 340 O ring and too 4 thin slices from its length to get 4 thin rubber pucks to put in the rear dog bone cups.

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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

...tried installing the 3x33mm  suspension pins on the rear arms to mount the rear knuckles. it was a stupidly tight fit. i needed 34mm long suspension pins...

Did you consider filing down the arm so the 33's could fit? I think there's a lot of opportunity for dirt/crap to get between your washers and cause binding issues.

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