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i got a storage issue i have left gathering for my hobbies, i have this wall unit which i got my Gundam models, hobby paints and a few odds and ends. its been cluttered with some stuf i didnt bother to sort out for some time. i need space to place the majority of my RC models andsome other hobby related stuff. cleaned out some drawers and removed other stuff i didnt need. got more storage space for 3 RC models. the long one isnt long/deep enough to store the slash 2wd and TT02 but maybe a combo of the various model lengths. the slash and lunchbox have more than enough space to sit there normally. gonna clear up some more shelves for hobby storage and leave the deep and wide ones for the RC. found a place to store the lunch box now :) i got space to store 2-3 2 in the open and leave the others in the wall storage unit.

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@silvertriplewhat did you do to your rear bumper to get it that way? i was thinking of filling in the gaps to make a more traditional bumper but didnt really have much to work with than scrap lexan panels.

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11 minutes ago, nel33 said:

 

what did you do to your rear bumper to get it that way? i was thinking of filling in the gaps to make a more traditional bumper but didnt really have much to work with than scrap lexan panels.

This is a Kamtec lexan body, not a Tamiya hard body. and basically, it's painted (just did masking and painted after the black - I think it is bright silver). For the small story, I prefer Lexan body to run and keep the ABS body for the shelf..

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1 minute ago, silvertriple said:

This is a Kamtec lexan body, not a Tamiya hard body. and basically, it's painted (just did masking and painted after the black). For the small story, I prefer Lexan body to run and keep the ABS body for the shelf..

thanks, im not sure which i like better but the lunchbox is my first ABS shell. i did some edge reinforcement to the shell but other than a thin stripe of reinforcement above the grill the front half with the windows is a potential break point if im not careful... my other rc shells are lexan and i havent "tested" the durabilty of the ABS bodies yet.

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Speaking of shiny things, I attempted to remove a brass pinion from an old and dead M38 silver can.  

Had to jam a wedge to get it out damaging the side of the pinion. But restored the shape with a file.   Will mount on a modern silver can and see if it works on the car..

IMG_Jul292021at22514PM.jpg.dbcad1f43196faab08edf61b4725b06e.jpg

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Update:  Pinion was a success.  Next is I’m going to file down this lip on the 3D printed motor endbell adapter down to 0.2mm..  It is too thick at t=1.2mm. 

Update2: The adapter has no meat at t=0.2mm so decided to stop at 0.5mm.. hummmm.. 

IMG_Jul292021at33759PM.jpg.79435c0accd4912c23f7832a08dbb432.jpg

 

Edited by Willy iine
Update
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Got the front shocks onto the XV01 build I'm working on and started getting the electrics sorted ready for fitting tomorrow

1129149756_IMG_20210729_2038172.thumb.jpg.03f68774f582720474bef52aab5dfb9d.jpg

 

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On 7/28/2021 at 10:54 PM, BuggyGuy said:

Would love to see a thread on this - I was very close to getting a load of parts fabricated to get my own TRF type buggy for racing. But the TD4 announcement made me stop with the hope that we might once again have a competitive club racer from Big T

Oh, i already have a thread

I'm not so good in keeping it updated.

That's really sad. I hope for you the TD4  is equal to your expectations.

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The other day I found what looks to be the perfect lot for speed runs and postal racing. Huge smooth clean lot as far as my failing eyes can see, no seems, cracks, holes, etc. so loaded everything up and went out to do a few runs and of course I left the batteries at home :(. So I went home and grabbed them, headed back and some one had came with orange cones and barricades and closed off the lot :angry:. Have to try again tomorrow I guess.

So worked on the f103gt, assembled this thing they claim is a shock and decided I’d better hop online and order a real shock, and since I’m online now naturally I came here. Also learned the tamiya screwdriver can be inserted in the side today, can’t imagine ever needing to use it like that but maybe one day it’ll be handy

 

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8 hours ago, slydar said:

Fitted an M06 transmission to my Super Astute rere build 🙂

 

IMG_20210729_231105_130.jpg

Woah woah woah - you can't just drop a line like that without explanation! Please tell us more!!! :) 

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2 minutes ago, jonboy1 said:

Woah woah woah - you can't just drop a line like that without explanation! Please tell us more!!! :) 

I thought the same thing, then remembered I had a Super Astute with Super Astute transmission and its fine and doesn't have known weak points so couldn't think why I wanted to know so kept quiet

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10 hours ago, DarkSonic said:

Oh, i already have a thread

I'm not so good in keeping it updated.

That's really sad. I hope for you the TD4  is equal to your expectations.

I can always have another attempt if the TD4 isnt very good :-)

I was going to use mainly off the shelf parts other than the CF sheet bits (TB05 drive train + the aluminium adjustable suspension mounts + 501/503/511/201 hubs and arms). 

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2 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

Woah woah woah - you can't just drop a line like that without explanation! Please tell us more!!! :) 

There's some cheap rere Super Astute parts around. I built the car up around those and some old Madcap parts, including the transmission.

Between discussions about reliability, parts availability, and the ratio's not being in a desirable range for the 17.5 brushless I wanted to run, I went with this.

I know about the Schumacher based printed one, but I think this works out cheaper.
It's Tamiya parts which I kinda prefer even though admittedly it's just bias, and it was a fun little challenge.

I slotted the 2 front mounting holes in the M06 case, and cut the FRP brace away as the 2 transmission mounting tabs now take up that space. 
Re-drilled the rear 2 in the Astute chassis. That's literally it. FDR with the 20t pinion is 5.8.     

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Spent my birthday and today doing the/a body for my M07. Still not finished, mirrors, shut lines, and drill holes to do, plus paint the faces of the rims. 

Trying to replicate the Flame Orange/Black of the 2021 Swift (not that I particularly like swifts).

Lxo1aTn.jpg

n7qQ9lg.jpg

 

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On 7/28/2021 at 11:36 PM, topforcein said:

A week or so i received my stickers from yogi-bear put on the lunch box and wild willy 

That looks aweome! Love the stoned-out panel van art!

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18 hours ago, silvertriple said:

Prototyping some light buckets for a Lexan lunchbox body (Kamtec)...

Decide to use some lenses container I have available at home in quite good quantity...

I drilled them at 5 mm to be able to place the led inside, and then used Liquid Chrome paint marker (Molotov is the brand) to paint the reflector...

Next steps : cut a little bit around the reflector, position them and use hot glue to fix them to the Lexan body. I would then use hot glue to fix the led in the reflector...

Results within the next days...

Those are contact lens cases?

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2 minutes ago, c64orinoco said:

Thoes are contact lens cases?

Yes it is. I had those stored on my desk precisely thinking about this use case, but did not make this until I found the proper chrome markers (https://www.amazon.fr/Molotow-marqueurs-liquide-Chrome-Pointe/dp/B07JJFPBDW)... The tip was shared by a friend who is posting on Tamiyabase, and decided to confirm feasibility. That works much better than expected.

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2 minutes ago, silvertriple said:

Yes it is. I had those stored on my desk precisely thinking about this use case, but did not make this until I found the proper chrome markers (https://www.amazon.fr/Molotow-marqueurs-liquide-Chrome-Pointe/dp/B07JJFPBDW)... The tip was shared by a friend who is posting on Tamiyabase, and decided to confirm feasibility. That works much better than expected.

The Molotov Chrome pens are excellent. They are highly recomended for any super-high-quality chrome! Great use of contact lens cases too, I've just been throwing them out for years without thinking how useful they might be.

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1 minute ago, c64orinoco said:

The Molotov Chrome pens are excellent. They are highly recomended for any super-high-quality chrome! Great use of contact lens cases too, I've just been throwing them out for years without thinking how useful they might be.

To be clear, I started to store those few months ago, after I painted the Lunchbox bodies using mask to be able to keep the lights clear. I had this idea in mind, but was not sure it would work. I started another try with some silver paint, but it was not giving the result I expected. I did keep this on the side for quite a while... Found out the Molotow Chrome Liquid very recently as discussing this with my friend.

Not sure if hot glue will be resistant enough, however. I'll see. If it doesn't work, I'll try other combination (my concern is that other glue than hot glue may have solvants that could eventually damage the paint)

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32 minutes ago, berman said:

Spent my birthday and today doing the/a body for my M07. Still not finished, mirrors, shut lines, and drill holes to do, plus paint the faces of the rims. 

Trying to replicate the Flame Orange/Black of the 2021 Swift (not that I particularly like swifts).

Lxo1aTn.jpg

n7qQ9lg.jpg

 

Looking really good. Happy Birthday, even if it is a little late.

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3 minutes ago, Aerobert said:

Looking really good. Happy Birthday, even if it is a little late.

Thank you @Aerobert 😊🍻

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4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I thought the same thing, then remembered I had a Super Astute with Super Astute transmission and its fine and doesn't have known weak points so couldn't think why I wanted to know so kept quiet

Yeah, if I started with a kit it would make no sense, but it was just a bunch of parts, more about having a project 🙂

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Finished painting the lightbuckets for my RC Arlos S14 Silvia bodyshell. The rear lightbucket has 8 individual clear lens pieces that have to be glued in place. Very detailed! Should I make a build thread of my bodyshells, even if they are not all Tamiya?

09-B1462-1.jpg

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I think I've just managed to buy something from a shop in Japan using a handling company! I guess I'll find out sooner or later! :) 

By the way, I noticed that there are a lot of restrictions on what countries are currently accepting in the way of post/packages from Japan at the moment, so may be worth considering before you buy anything.

https://www.post.japanpost.jp/int/information/overview.html

 

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3 hours ago, slydar said:

There's some cheap rere Super Astute parts around. I built the car up around those and some old Madcap parts, including the transmission.

Between discussions about reliability, parts availability, and the ratio's not being in a desirable range for the 17.5 brushless I wanted to run, I went with this.

I know about the Schumacher based printed one, but I think this works out cheaper.
It's Tamiya parts which I kinda prefer even though admittedly it's just bias, and it was a fun little challenge.

I slotted the 2 front mounting holes in the M06 case, and cut the FRP brace away as the 2 transmission mounting tabs now take up that space. 
Re-drilled the rear 2 in the Astute chassis. That's literally it. FDR with the 20t pinion is 5.8.     

That's really neat - thanks very much for sharing it :) 

You actually just given me a very cunning plan to improve upon an idea I had a while back.

I'm now looking up M06 parts :) Like I needed another project!! ;) 

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