Jump to content
Badboy

So, What Have You Done Today?

Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I've been making sloooow progress on restoring a sad looking hotshot I bought on ebay. I'm trying to keep the original look but with independent suspension... quite a pain to make it all fit!

hotshot1.thumb.jpg.f0bdadde2e551e18fecd2e9c10a7c3f6.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, RizFiz said:

I've been making sloooow progress on restoring a sad looking hotshot I bought on ebay. I'm trying to keep the original look but with independent suspension... quite a pain to make it all fit.

That is cool!

This will be a pullrod in front?

Waiting for more pictures :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, wtcc5 said:

That is cool!

This will be a pullrod in front?

Waiting for more pictures :)

Yep- It would have been so much easier if I could work out how to get pushrod to work well, but without adding holes into the front arms I couldn't work out how! So it's pullrod, and I'm going to have fun trying to fit in the esc above the battery :unsure:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RizFiz said:

I've been making sloooow progress on restoring a sad looking hotshot I bought on ebay. I'm trying to keep the original look but with independent suspension... quite a pain to make it all fit!

hotshot1.thumb.jpg.f0bdadde2e551e18fecd2e9c10a7c3f6.jpg

Those are cool wheels!  Info???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Those are cool wheels!  Info???

The original wheels it came with were quite badly buckled.. a few too many kerb interactions I guess! So it's just them with the center replaced with an aluminium disc to take out the wheel wobble. I quite like the look, but might update it a bit so the aluminium center is a little bit bigger. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The F104 chassis is complete, what a pleasure it was to restaure/build. Next up is electronics, wings, setup and finally chassis protector. Can't wait to enter it in postal racing, seems doable for this month's round.

PXL_20210803_211104097.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

(as seen on „thercracer.com“)

That was you! Amazing project 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Swapped out the electronics on my junk RTR… I could spend more time on it, but why.. :lol:

Before..

IMG_Aug32021at51537PM.jpg.1988c65ed76420804a5c1a7918046788.jpg

New servo mount posts.. the servo is a 5 pin :blink: and too lazy to figure out which wires were to be used so tossed it in the trash.  Also this motor is weird.. it does not brake consistently and jumps to reverse for some reason..PCB is on the outside of the endbell.. tossed in trash.

IMG_Aug32021at51551PM.jpg.d31caa0fb94d75807fc4a82dcbc31b7a.jpg

Final..  I did not want to cut the Tamiya connector off the 1060 so just made an adapter using the RTR’s ESC’s fake Deans..ESC also went in the trash.  The car runs off 1:18 Lipo so instead of spending time converting to standard NiMH, decided to just run Lipo. 

IMG_Aug32021at51600PM.jpg.5faf5f07feeff4fedcb9f0c15b3ff2e3.jpg

The car actually drives pretty nice..

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

tried my hand at soldering, 12 AWG or slightly thinner wire onto tamiya connectors is annoying as heck. didnt have the proper tools nearby for the task so it made things more annoying. will need to get the right tools on hand before i try to solder it to the connector first.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, nel33 said:

tried my hand at soldering, 12 AWG or slightly thinner wire onto tamiya connectors is annoying as heck. didnt have the proper tools nearby for the task so it made things more annoying. will need to get the right tools on hand before i try to solder it to the connector first.

Why not just get the Tamiya connector hardware and Molex crimp tool?  It's really easy to make the connector and no soldering needed.  

I made this adapter today.. 2 min?

IMG_Aug32021at85047PM.jpg.536fe642bfeb63464d0f02a822968eab.jpg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Why not just get the Tamiya connector hardware and Molex crimp tool?  It's really easy to make the connector and no soldering needed.  

i should consider that, the other side will be Xt60 i do have traditional crimp channel locks that could also work?? i dont think there is a way to escape soldering the Xt60 parts or maybe there is? what about cold crimping the wires to the tamiya then adding a bit of solder? i need a good secure and safe connection. one set will be to charge the XT60 connector battery though it also has traxxas connector (non ESC connector) that could be used for that. the other adapter will be to use tamiya connector batteries to the HW1080.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Picked up these from the other hobby shop... :ph34r:

mArLRFf.jpg

 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, nel33 said:

i should consider that, the other side will be Xt60 i do have traditional crimp channel locks that could also work?? i dont think there is a way to escape soldering the Xt60 parts or maybe there is? what about cold crimping the wires to the tamiya then adding a bit of solder? i need a good secure and safe connection. one set will be to charge the XT60 connector battery though it also has traxxas connector (non ESC connector) that could be used for that. the other adapter will be to use tamiya connector batteries to the HW1080.

The Tamiya connectors use a pretty thin crimp area so if your Channel-Lock brand one is thin, then it should work.  I have several crimpers for automotive use (stereo/radar detector/air horn/accessories hard wire, etc,  etc), that are too thick, so I bought a crimper made for Molex connectors to do the Tamiya connectors (this includes the battery connectors and the motor wire connectors typically found on the 1060's, TBLE02S's, etc). 

I personally only use Tamiya connectors and Deans, and some banana connectors so haven't had to solder the connector you posted.

As for soldering the crimp area, it is not necessary.  If you crimp it correctly the wire will not slip off the connectors unless you tug it so hard that the connector breaks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

The Tamiya connectors use a pretty thin crimp area so if your Channel-Lock brand one is thin, then it should work.  I have several crimpers for automotive use (stereo/radar detector/air horn/accessories hard wire, etc,  etc), that are too thick, so I bought a crimper made for Molex connectors to do the Tamiya connectors (this includes the battery connectors and the motor wire connectors typically found on the 1060's, TBLE02S's, etc). 

I personally only use Tamiya connectors and Deans, and some banana connectors so haven't had to solder the connector you posted.

As for soldering the crimp area, it is not necessary.  If you crimp it correctly the wire will not slip off the connectors unless you tug it so hard that the connector breaks.

thank you for the reply, i do have some thin channel locks more specifically the wire strippers thin tip. im making 2 sets of each as im havent tried soldering the xt60 connectors yet. my co worker has  the molex type. does the soldered wire tip need to be hot or would cold/dried coat bond properly with the new solder?

im choosing xt60 simply because i dont want to cut off the 1080 battery connector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply, i do have some thin channel locks more specifically the wire strippers thin tip. im making 2 sets of each as im havent tried soldering the xt60 connectors yet. my co worker has  the molex type. does the soldered wire tip need to be hot or would cold/dried coat bond properly with the new solder?

I always heat the wires hot before I apply solder.  Cold solder can cause a mess of problems including poor adhesion and uneven spread.  The idea is to get the wire hot in the least amount of time (to prevent the wire jacket or your connector from melting) and apply solder.  

I sometimes use alligator clips as heat sink to direct heat away from the area I just soldered.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Willy iine said:

I always heat the wires hot before I apply solder.  Cold solder can cause a mess of problems including poor adhesion and uneven spread.  The idea is to get the wire hot in the least amount of time (to prevent the wire jacket or your connector from melting) and apply solder.  

I sometimes use alligator clips as heat sink to disperse the heat away from the area I just soldered.

thank you for the reply, i clearly will need to practice that a bit as getting the wires to temp will be tricky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply, i clearly will need to practice that a bit as getting the wires to temp will be tricky.

If you are soldering heavy gauge wire you can file off the tip of the soldering iron to get a larger heating surface.  For example, when I make battery packs I need a lot of heat to solder the tabs in the shortest amount of time so I use a solder tip I cut and filed for a stubby large surface.  It almost looks like a tip of a large flat-head screw driver.  It provides a lot more heat in a short amount of time vs using the same iron with a narrow or fine/long tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Willy iine said:

If you are soldering heavy gauge wire you can file off the tip of the soldering iron to get a larger heating surface.  For example, when I make battery packs I need a lot of heat to solder the tabs in the shortest amount of time so I use a solder tip I cut and filed for a stubby large surface.  It almost looks like a tip of a large flat-head screw driver.  It provides a lot more heat in a short amount of time vs using the same iron with a narrow or fine/long tip.

the one i got has 5 extra tips, one is more wide and broad, i need to figure out how to swap the tip out first for that. currently using long flat thin one but will dig deeper into the other tips for the xt60 connectors, the fine tip takes too long...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@nel33 Holmes Hobbies has some good soldering videos on you tube if you would like any general how tos, I watched them a few times then had a go at soldering motor wires - bullets at one end, direct to the motor at the other. It worked and wasn’t too untidy so I was quite pleased for a first go.

Battery connectors - XT60s - are my next adventure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, nel33 said:

the one i got has 5 extra tips, one is more wide and broad, i need to figure out how to swap the tip out first for that. currently using long flat thin one but will dig deeper into the other tips for the xt60 connectors, the fine tip takes too long...

Usually the tips are just held in place by a grub screw or a regular screw on the side of the heater core barrel (or what that portion is called).. you loosen it and just pulls out.  Otherwise some tips are just screwed into the heating core.   Definitely try filing the tip so that you have at least a good 3-5mm heating tip.  

 

For me, I bought another SandScorcher today NIB along with 2 ball diff sets.  The first one is arriving hopefully tomorrow.  I plan to build one of them and the other to be kept on display.  Honestly I wanted the original vintage one to keep NIB, but could not find one in a nice box under $2K.

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The last parts arrived ^_^

I added the dampers and solved the problem with the rear body posts. In hindsight it was easy, but I didn’t know that the front body posts come in two length -_- I randomly discovered that when looking at my TT-02 Type S Impreza.

The electronics with the little receiver also fit very nice.

794c1362-a9a6-4865-897j0o.jpeg

be1b36fd-ac46-4330-9qijtg.jpeg

74af5b31-e06b-4b0f-9omkdy.jpeg

b01ad16e-543b-4e89-azqjqj.jpeg

4ba823d2-54eb-4852-b5akkx.jpeg

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fitted one set of the m-chassis dampers to my #1 M05, and removed the CVAs and put them on my MF-01x escort.

The other set will go on my M-four, because it is missing the rears, which the previous owner replaced with some generic alloy cheap ones which are too long.

gRIDFT4.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...