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So, What Have You Done Today?

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8 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

We had such a good run on JDM cars here, basically the only market taking them for ages. When the frontal impact laws changed here I could've had a mint, unable to be road registered, Evo 3 for $6k!. Everything has gone up now though. 

I pumped gas at a very busy petrol station in West Auckland (that will mean something to those who know Auckland) in the 90s so I have very fond memories of GC8 WRX, anything 4AGE, SR, RB or 1JZ/2JZ powered, HSV and then of course the 12A/13B crowd, and TX3 Lasers, Hondas etc. Good times

Also, given your ability to paint your $140 SiL80 is looking cheap! $90 a shot to ruin a body...

So you were living the Takumi Fujiwara experience back in the 90s. Seeing all those great cars on a daily basis. Cars prices are rather insane now where 30k would be considered bargain and 50k minimum price being "normal". I looked up GTR models, easy 60k... when I was much younger I liked the usual high end European sports cars but when I got into initial D, those same European cars became "Just nice looking cars" that I don't care to own. The low body clearances never did like crater city situation on public roads here. Always road construction going on to keep craters away. Sil80, EVO7 or GTR R33 would be my pick these days, the hood and grill of evo7 speak to me for a reason from that line up.

I got brilliant blue PS paint for sil80, not the most vibrant color but pretty much spot on for the factory blue color it came In. The FD3S body is stumping me a bit honestly. The front and rear bumper are the assembly required pieces same for the flip up lights but fitting the bumpers looks a bit annoying. The sil80 only needs the wing cut out and Installed.i can go all out and install lights on Fd3s but not sure how the would interfere with the fiber tape glue reinforcement. 

$600  for evo7 RC kit is a bit on the high range at this point. If i didn't have 6 kits already it would be easy buy choice.

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Took the Manta Ray for a spin after mounting new tires and new plastic gears throughout.

Now it purrs! But I won't run it again until a new steel pinion arrives next weekend (had to momentarily install a fresh Tamiya one hoping it would hold ok for one single test run :ph34r:)

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Front body post mounted.  Going to make dimples into the doors for the cup and make door handles next.  

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7 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Oh they go in the center.. ok thanks!!  Started working on the front body post using my totally stock GF01. 

I may end up getting another GF01 TR since I can’t find any shop with inventory of those spiked tires in the USA..  I see a pair, but need a full set and wheels.. and by that time why not just get a new TR.. 

Actually I think they may be Sand Scorcher side light bases??

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8 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Actually I think they may be Sand Scorcher side light bases??

Yes they are!   I drilled new holes to accommodate.  Thanks.  

Rough painted the shell to get an image of the final product and made a body mount for the rear.   Since the rear is wide open on this body I think I’m going to run WR02 instead and run those silly big exhaust tips.. 

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6 hours ago, Ferruz said:

Took the Manta Ray for a spin after mounting new tires and new plastic gears throughout.

Now it purrs! But I won't run it again until a new steel pinion arrives next weekend (had to momentarily install a fresh Tamiya one hoping it would hold ok for one single test run :ph34r:)

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Screenshot-20210920-201248-Video-Player.

Fantastic pics as always.

Question: How do you take the still shots on the moving subjects? Is the camera mounted on you and set timer and burst capture?

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i can see the horizon with my manta. decided to stop procrastinating on working on rc when i get home at 11:30 pm. usually have the excuse of "wait until sunlight". i drilled out the bad threads on the chassis rear mounts. installed 3x14mm machined screws on the rear top mounts. there isnt as much meat on the plastic as there was before but the bad threads were mostly removed. took a few minutes to slowly screw the top ones down so there was no gap. tamiya self tappers on the bottom with 2.5mm washer under the head. the rear gear box is now solid. i could possibly try tighten the top screws a bit but would rather not strip them again... will need to monitor the gap after runs but gentle prying doesnt show a gap. 

when the sun comes up i will place the ESC and receiver and then see what he can do (not a she, its named Depth Charge ie male transformer). i will go to LHS today ie thursday to pick up the traxxas self tappers and 3x10mm machined screws to replenish my mostly depleted stock of YR screws and some red paint to fix any blue boomerang parts that may need painting in the future.

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17 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Anyone know where these pieces go on the Blitzer Beetle body?   TIA.

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I was looking at all the parts that came with the body and was puzzled.. :huh:

Those are blinkers. And they're only used in the Sand Scorcher nosecone.

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On 9/22/2021 at 7:23 PM, Jonathon Gillham said:

I pumped gas at a very busy petrol station in West Auckland

Which one?

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4 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

BP Junction, on the big roundabout in New Lynn. You'll know it...

I used to work (supervisor) at BP New Lynn (by Lynnmall) when I left school for a short time... 

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4 minutes ago, berman said:

 

I used to work (supervisor) at BP New Lynn (by Lynnmall) when I left school for a short time... 

Close to the Liquor King? I know the one, I worked at a few around there over holidays etc, did 5 years, part time at school and uni

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12 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Close to the Liquor King? I know the one, I worked at a few around there over holidays etc, did 5 years, part time at school and uni

That's it, and Pitstop next door. Spent all my wages at places like GER and Balancing Specialties

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15 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

Fantastic pics as always.

Question: How do you take the still shots on the moving subjects? Is the camera mounted on you and set timer and burst capture?

Thank you! 

As for the pics, nothing too complicated. I mostly just film the cars with my phone while driving and then select the best screenshots afterwards 😅

Sometimes I go with burst shots but most of them are just screenshots. Only bad thing is the lower definition but it's ok with me at least for now.

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Slowly but surely.. painted the final base coat on the body with minor body work correction, painted all the black parts (not pictured) NOS bottle, made a platform for Billy as well, cut the factory glass to match the new shape.  

Still not sure what to do with the rear.. going to search for funnels.. 

Tomorrow will do the detailed painting of the body like trims and stuff.. still need to paint Billy’s torso and camo his helmet..

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Just fitted my Vampire Racing SR1 esc and 4.5T 9000kv AB+ Motor to my new CEN monster truck. It's lively 😂😂 ........ Had to set a 4300kv limit on the esc for it to be manageable. Also fitted softer springs and some 600 damper oil to get rid of the horrible 'bouncy' suspension, It's good fun now though, lands and corners very much like an actual Monster Jam truck. Hopefully going to get some videos of it tomorrow.

James.

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Dropped by LHS picked up hardware 3x10mm screws machined and self tap variety. Got 2 paint tins red and semigloss black for the Gundam paint supply. Bpught 1 can of red mica TS so I would be able to paint blue boomerang parts red. Not sure if Italian red was a better match ie brighter but red mica is a tab bit darker than the red sabre parts. Not a huge issue really.

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Managed to make a nice alloy plate last night at work to take the chassis servo down and mount onto the front solid axle of the CEN HL150 👍 turned out good, far less slop in the steering, instead of 8 links, it's now has 2. Even had time to paint it black on my tea breaks. 👍

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Printed a petg tailgate for my beater Blackfoot. Kudos to the dude on thingiverse for such a great fitting part!  Ford is spelled correctly too. None of that Toyato garbage. 😄
 

WjcUOIU.jpg

 

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Finished my SW-01 Lunchbox built completely out of spares except the screw bags and body.

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so i cant let my guard down with self tapping screws either, no damage done but a good warning to myself. i decided to 2x check the manta for driving operation, success but i noticed 1 thing missing when i reinstalled the rear gear box: the driveshaft... it drove fine on 2wd anyway LOL instead of messing with rear box again with the shallower machine threads i went for th efront gear box. 4 screws later and 1 backed off, i managed to swivel it enough to fit the shaft. one top screw was entering deeper than the other in my haste??  removed it and placed a 2.5mm washer under it. no apparent lasting damage and the thing is solid on the chassis. i only caught thi today because i just remembered that i didnt set the EPA on it yet and found it weird it suddenly became 2wd. LOL.

the EPA are now set, 65% right, 50% left. my servo is a 270 degree model and the only thing preventing me from going higher left % is the parts that hold the driveshaft to gear box. got is very close but far enough it wont hit the aluminum part on driveshaft receiver/cap? (forgot the right term.) now to see where i will place the electronics.

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9 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@alvinlwh That is by far the best SW01 I have ever seen.   Well done! 

Well, I got Vanessa's sticker wrong, it should be about 2mm lower. 😣

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Got a call from LHS saying my USA-1 was on its way from Kyosho and to expect it next week.  He hung up and called me no less than 5 minutes later saying FedEx just dropped it off!  Magic!  May try to go grab it tonight will see how the workday finishes.

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@nel33Regarding the EPA, I wouldn’t worry about the numeric values, it’s the actual travel that matters.   I only use the value as initial guide, from there I don’t even look at the value and just monitor the steering travel on the car during set up.   As long as it’s pretty close left to right, it’s fine. 

 

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