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So, What Have You Done Today?

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I achieved something amazing today, I installed 4 x Ti coated suspension shafts without firing 2mm e-clips across my living room to be lost for eternity.

These are outboard shafts, I actually thought I'd purchased inboard shafts and was frustrated that I couldn't find all 8 of the shafts I needed. Once I clicked that I'd been doing it wrong, and actually started searching for the correct parts today, I found them immediately so the outstanding 4 inboard shafts are now winging their way from Asia.

All in an effort to add as many Hop-Ups as I can to my M-05.

Suspension_Shafts_Outboard.jpg

 

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I installed one of my spare Torque Tuned motors in my Blackfoot, first test drive was a bit of a mess, I think it's already too fast for my driving style (mix of dirt/asphalt) and I flipped the car a dozen time at least, now my options are either to revert to the silver can or find a spare body for the shelf (maybe an original one?) and keep bashing it with the upgraded motor.

rHoLVUN.jpg

It was also the first test drive for my GF's new lunchbox, as expected this thing is a blast in stock form, and it drives surprisingly well on asphalt.

SlokwO7.jpeg

Tmi26S3.jpeg

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@djmcnz Are you going to clear bra the bottom of the chassis before scratch?  (notice I said scratch in singular form as it's always the first one that hurts! :lol:)

3M/Scotch narrow rolls can be had on Amazon if interested.  

If this is your first time, always handle the adhesive side with water wet fingers to prevent finger prints.  

 

@VileQuenouille that black LB looks great! 

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What I worked on today..

In pursuit of finding a quick and easy way to fix the joint parting line issue on the latest Billy’s heads injected in the Philippines, I tried a different approach and seemed to have found the trick.  

While making aggressive and forceful joints on the comical Sand Scorcher bodies I made, I began to see a pattern of how Tamiya’s cement fuses two uneven pieces together.  

The trick is to join the pieces together very gently in one shot and NOT to use any clamping force. 

So what does that mean on Billy’s helmet.  It means to apply a good amount of cement on the joining areas as usual and just gently mate the pieces together.  No clamping, no screw to thread.  Just gently hold the pieces still in that condition for 10 min for the cement to set.  Then allow cement to fully cure. 

IMG_Oct102021at85400PM.jpg.0a307f23bbac0e55f3dc09d22b9c2b85.jpg

Sand as usual.. no putty needed if one applied the right amount of cement.

IMG_Oct112021at95558AM.jpg.9732c101b4ae2112059e34aa9c99b3f4.jpg

Paint as usual..  no line.  Eyes try to play a trick to see nonexistent lines.. I promise you, there is no line.  

IMG_Oct112021at95623AM.jpg.727aa22f5d573a76b232b127263f7ed7.jpg

IMG_Oct112021at95615AM.jpg.086d5ec5c7ebad5959ab96a90be073dc.jpg

Super clean and easy.   :D

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10 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

What I worked on today..

In pursuit of finding a quick and easy way to fix the joint parting line issue on the latest Billy’s heads injected in the Philippines, I tried a different approach and seemed to have found the trick.  

While making aggressive and forceful joints on the comical Sand Scorcher bodies I made, I began to see a pattern of how Tamiya’s cement fuses two uneven pieces together.  

The trick is to join the pieces together very gently in one shot and NOT to use any clamping force. 

So what does that mean on Billy’s helmet.  It means to apply a good amount of cement on the joining areas as usual and just gently mate the pieces together.  No clamping, no screw to thread.  Just gently hold the pieces still in that condition for 10 min for the cement to set.  Then allow cement to fully cure. 

IMG_Oct102021at85400PM.jpg.0a307f23bbac0e55f3dc09d22b9c2b85.jpg

Sand as usual.. no putty needed if one applied the right amount of cement.

IMG_Oct112021at95558AM.jpg.9732c101b4ae2112059e34aa9c99b3f4.jpg

Paint as usual..  no line.  Eyes try to play a trick to see nonexistent lines.. I promise you, there is no line.  

IMG_Oct112021at95623AM.jpg.727aa22f5d573a76b232b127263f7ed7.jpg

IMG_Oct112021at95615AM.jpg.086d5ec5c7ebad5959ab96a90be073dc.jpg

Super clean and easy.   :D

Fantastic info. Much appreciated 👌

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6 minutes ago, toyolien said:

Fantastic info. Much appreciated 👌

You’ve helped me so many times already, hope you also find good results!

@Badcrumble why the sad face?  It’s a victory.  :lol:

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Not quite sure what happened there @Willy iine, corrected now. Quite amazing how that join disappeared! If I am sad at all, it is because I'm not that accomplished.

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25 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

Not quite sure what happened there @Willy iine, corrected now. Quite amazing how that join disappeared! If I am sad at all, it is because I'm not that accomplished.

No problem, I was just wondering if you were already working on one and I was too late to post or something. 

You're doing great, Badcrumble!   GL on installing your decals.  :D

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49 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

Not quite sure what happened there @Willy iine, corrected now. Quite amazing how that join disappeared! If I am sad at all, it is because I'm not that accomplished.

I was laughing... I mean, he did spend a good portion of the day playing with the helmet of his Willy 🤣

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Finished up Billy.  He’s for my upcoming Sand Scorcher build (non comical.. well except for Billy’s big head)

IMG_Oct112021at15622PM.jpg.37ce1dfb5396c85898b13c6176904aad.jpg

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My initial plans for yesterday's RC time were all about postal racing, but I ended up just running the Manta Ray in off road mode. Very pleased with the purry sounds it finally makes, now that the weak spots on the gearbox have been revisited and the gears and pinion are all brand new. Sadly, it seems that none of my Nimh batteries is able to keep up with the power hungry bluebottle anymore... best case scenario is a couple mins of full power, then it gets cut off to half by the ESC (since battery is unable to keep up with the current draw, I assume). Will probably buy a couple of new batteries soon.

20211011-022720.jpg

Screenshot-20211011-004230-Video-Player.

Screenshot-20211010-172640-Video-Player.

In other news, I forgot that it's Thanksgiving day today around here. So now enough work and off to some postal racing!

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Took the lunch box and tt02d for some runs. The tt02 hit 25kmh on parking lot area with aluminum rims, rubber tires and sport tuned motor. Ran it for 20 to 30 min until, the sun got a bit too low. The lunch box was the big surprise, it turns out I'm not giving it the terrain it loves... grass got 21, road 23 or 24 as I ran with and without shell. It got 29kmh on that gravel path/road. There isn't many gravel areas that allow me to run the cars much on but it's great for off road speed runs.

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12 hours ago, Willy iine said:

@djmcnz Are you going to clear bra the bottom of the chassis before scratch?  (notice I said scratch in singular form as it's always the first one that hurts! :lol:)

3M/Scotch narrow rolls can be had on Amazon if interested.  

If this is your first time, always handle the adhesive side with water wet fingers to prevent finger prints.  

Good to know, thank you. Although I don't think this one will get driven, I have mint built M01, M03 and M05 and hope to keep them this way. 

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1 minute ago, djmcnz said:

Good to know, thank you. Although I don't think this one will get driven, I have mint built M01, M03 and M05 and hope to keep them this way. 

I see.  Sounds like a keeper.  Maybe carpet or EVA foam surfaces might be gentle enough even for shelf queens to stretch their legs at times.  

 

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Futzed around with my LC EMB-1, trying to straighten a bent CVD, then trying to adapt an Associated 14B CVD to replace it with. Neither worked, so I considered ridding myself of the fragile little thing. 
Instead, I took my TT-02 rally car for a couple of packs at the local park. I was surprised that a 4000 mah LiPO only gets 15 minutes run time when a silver can is at full tilt the entire run.

But, the entire two runs where at full tilt, so a good day after all.

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On 10/7/2021 at 5:31 PM, Yoshimitsu said:

Has anyone else done this on their Beetle? Just looking for tips on painting the lenses.🙏😁

IMG_20211007_202345.jpg

I'll tell you the best kept secret for that. All you need is a pair of cheap & trusty Sharpie pens. One red, and one orange. It never fails! ;)

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On 10/10/2021 at 1:05 PM, silvertriple said:

Unbuilt the remaining broken Hunter chassis and the Galaxy RS... This project will be able to move partially, at least.

Sa2juqg.jpg

(more details on my Marui thread :) )

Will check the thread. That's such a great project buggy to work on!

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Not today but last Saturday morning went out with the rc boys here. Unfortunately there's no car of mine there as I didn't charged the transmitter batteries for the occasion :(

https://i.imgur.com/NhmnNvQ.jpg

 

 

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No pictures, but I picked up some TL01 arms and 39 mm dog bones to widen the MF01x.

At the moment I'm really enjoying my little MF01x, but I've got a spare 1/14 shell, so considering a second truck.

However rather than buy a brand new MF01x chassis I'm going to be sensible, and remodel my current car first with new arms,  see if it works and I like it. That way when I buy a new chassis I'll be confident it will work, and I can transplant the arms across. 

The plan is to have one like the Ford 150 4x4 racing truck, and the other like the Monster Racer/King Cab - the main reason is that despite 70 mm wheels the Mf01x still struggles a little on grass, so 85  90 mm wheels would really open up what it could do.

One thing that's nice about many Tamiya kits is how interchangeable it all is, once you start knowing your way around them, they become much like Lego.

 

 

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Hi whahoo, I bought this https://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=70134 

It's Tamiya 5mm, art. 70134. Probably it is styrene. I recommend you make it yourself, the one from eBay will look sub optimal I think. It Seems the best option is Tamiya glue (orange cap) as well. I worked with hot glue, CA and uhu acrylit. All works but has pros and cons. Cheers. Here's another one I did by the way, it makes the whole car look so much better I think. Even if Ou mess the interior up a little, it's quite forgiving. 

 

https://youtu.be/QEI-3Y505w4

IMG_20211012_182243.jpg

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I took this out for a spin (quite literally, 2WD on concrete) and it was a blast.

For a car made in 1987 without a single hop up, mod or new part, it's quite incredible it's in such good condition.

MdLgiv0.jpg

You are looking at a Tandy Golden Arrow, which is essentially a Nikko F10 (with Nikko circuitry) made by Tandy/Radio Shack.

Inside it looks like this, note the Nikko circuit parts and chip. It's very similar to the Grasshopper, with a slightly improved front suspension and (for the time pretty nifty) electronic speed control. 

a9c9FM2.jpg?1

I opened up the gearbox and replaced the bushings with bearings and added a new differential and it works great. 

It's a standard 540 motor (not sure turn count, 35 or 27 would be my guess) but it's pretty speedy for what it is. 

tcHvg7j.jpg

jBC3N4j.jpg

RXQ8YtX.jpg

Although it's a lovely piece of history, I think I'm either going to move it on, or keep it in a loft for a collector, as it's getting hard to get these, and I really don't want to break it! 

 

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