So, What Have You Done Today?

[Willy iine 18806]

What I worked on today..

Well it’s deja vu all over again at Willy’s chop shop.. 

Update..

Update… started the gluing process..

Roof is glued.. will leave it be until tomorrow morning.  The sun roof will be cut out later.  

 

Edited October 18, 2021 by Willy iine

[TurnipJF 9192]

Took the Sherp to the park:

 

 

 

 

 

While I have yet to develop an appreciation for any of the comical shells supplied with the GF-01, the chassis itself is brilliant. It handled all of the terrain types encountered, without getting stuck or tipping over once.

[Willy iine 18806]

@TurnipJF If you get the GF01 TR you will get additional ground clearance and more controllable torque from the reduction gears which might suit your car even better.  GF01 in standard form is more a modern comical racing chassis.  

I agree it’s a great chassis no doubt.

I checked out the Sherp website.  Looks like an easy body to make from scratch for Billy as it only has straight lines.  I will consider making one this winter in military scheme, of course.  

[Willy iine 18806]

Continuing on the comical SS body, glued the left door area this morning.   Will let it set for a few hours and will glue the other side.  

Update.. glued the other side.. will let it be till tomorrow morning. 

While waiting, I ordered some paint and Comical HS to add some level of excitement.

Edited October 19, 2021 by Willy iine

[GermanTA03Guy 1327]

Wow, is that Tamiya glue that good? 

[Willy iine 18806]

37 minutes ago, GermanTA03Guy said:

Wow, is that Tamiya glue that good? 

It’s good stuff.  It’s all that I use.  

That and some Tamiya’s basic putty to clean up the joints where needed.  

[Ray_ve 1043]

Finished painting the Shogun body, gave the windows a dash of smoke, and decal time!

 

 

Far better then when it came in...

[Aerobert 2145]

3 hours ago, Ray_ve said:

 

Such a beautiful buggy with the most beautiful wheels. You have done a great job!

[Goudar 526]

Perfect buggy, the wheels and tires are such a beauty, the shape of the shell, that glossy black and silver mix perfectly with the gold stickers.

It's a shame Marui  has give up with RC cars.

 

Really great rebuild you did there.

[Re-Bugged 10148]

Very smart Shogun @Ray_ve 👍🏻

[Ferruz 11702]

Fantastic result with the Shogun, and ideed the most beautiful wheels 

[Busdriver 6209]

Did a quick paint job on the lexan Bowler shell ( inspiration for you @Willy iine) Only really using this body to get the body posts etc and to use as a basher. It’s painted on the outside of the shell with

TS 28 Olive drab2 and semi gloss black( hand painted) I primed the shell with Matt core rc clear. The inside of the shell had already been painted in red primer so if any of the outside gets chipped it will show. 
The ABS shell is on the way. I’m going to do a more rally car theme and also might incorporate some real tyres int the rear as spares and a defender grill from my old CC01 shell

[Willy iine 18806]

@Busdriver I like it!  So are you going to sticker bomb the sides with flowers?   

[Busdriver 6209]

17 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@Busdriver I like it!  So are you going to sticker bomb the sides with flowers?   

No this ones War not Peace

[Badcrumble 4203]

Very nice @Busdriver. Makes me realise that I've been neglecting my TL01 Bowler 

You made a much better job of the front body posts than I did 

What tyres have you got on there? I've the standard CC01 Pajero wheels / tyres.

[Busdriver 6209]

29 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

Very nice @Busdriver. Makes me realise that I've been neglecting my TL01 Bowler 

You made a much better job of the front body posts than I did 

What tyres have you got on there? I've the standard CC01 Pajero wheels / tyres.

Thanks but you are too kind about the front posts. If you look carefully you can se 2 plasticard plates that cover the multiple holes that I made to get it right!!!

the wheels/tyres are the Sandshaker ones which are standard CC01 size. I think the TT02-T has longer axles than the road car as the hexes are really thick. It pushes the wheels out a bit so you can get away with standard offset wheels. Having said tha a couple of mm’s wouldn’t go amiss. Also the wheels are in the middle of the arches but it doesn’t matter which way I take them they always look off👿

[Badcrumble 4203]

I hadn't looked that closely @Busdriver! Still better than mine - I haven't plugged the mishaps! Must be something about that bonnet...

[Busdriver 6209]

Just now, Badcrumble said:

I hadn't looked that closely @Busdriver! Still better than mine - I haven't plugged the mishaps! Must be something about that bonnet...

Your right the curves etc on the bonnet and at the rear are just in the wrong places. At the back I deliberately cut the holes further apart than the width of the posts. I then cut a tapered panel to fit between them. This spreads them to the right width and stops bottom wobble. The panels are tie wrapped into the posts 

[Willy iine 18806]

What I am working on today.. been on calls and meetings all morning so not much progress.  I got the sunroof cut out and not pictured but preminary sanded the right side.  Since this is my 3rd time making this body, the sanding process is flowing much smoother.   I'll need to make like another 20 of them to say I'm familiar with the process, however.. 

More updates later...

Update… roughly cleaned up the lines with a variety of files.  

Will sand tomorrow and prep for some paint by the weekend. 

Edited October 20, 2021 by Willy iine

[alvinlwh 5895]

On 10/19/2021 at 3:08 PM, Willy iine said:

It’s good stuff.  It’s all that I use.  

TBH, the white cap one is better suited to this purpose with the plus (or minus depending on your view) of giving you a high. But what is really best will be Revell blue needle nose ones. Do you reinforce your joint behind (sorry if I missed that you did)? 

[Ryz82 160]

Initial cut of Mustang body.

For the most part came out clean and straight, only needing a little sanding around front spoiler.

Wheel arches, using trusty compass cutter, came out smooth, but did under-estimate the diameter slightly, nothing significant that it cut into the body, was actually a little narrower actually, so top of one of the arches has maybe 1mm that could be trimmed, but for now have left as going back in with scissors may highlight the issue worse as the curve will no longer be perfect, even if more true to mould line.

After this, started trying to work out which body mounts I was going to use, and how to best get them true to body.

As per previous topic/post (How to measure body mounts (magnetic) - Build Tips and Techniques - Tamiyaclub.com) this will be my first foray into magnetic/stealth mounts, so it's a learning experience, and since for the near future I will be running multiple bodies on the same chassis, I want to try and have as little swap out as possible in terms of positioning and adjustment.

Initially I was going to use those mounts shown in my previous post, across ALL 4 posts. However, upon lining up with the body (at least the Mustang for now) that puts the posts and magnets clear in line of the rear window, eek, so even if tinted, you're gonna see them. At which rate I may as well drill the holes and leaves posts as normal sticking out. So while scratching my head, I found the other set of mounts I purchased at the start of the year - Xtra Speed (https://www.rcmart.com/xtra-speed-1-10-rc-aluminum-stealth-body-mount-black-xs-59496bk-00066497). Which turned out to be a good idea, as those have adjustable (both horizontal and vertical) for at least one of their mounts (typically rear).

So at the moment I have the initial single magnet top-of-post mounts on the front, and have used the Xtra Speed bar mount at the rear. 

 

Note the photo of the rear mounts shows single magnets on top. These are the ones that come with the other single style mounts, the actual Xtra Speed kit comes with a bar with two magnets, but I think that will be too rigid for the bodies, so will likely just use these instead - unless I go velcro.

The Xtra Speed mounts also have options for mounting on the front, using a cap that sits on top of the post, and then the bar screws in between those posts. So no additional adjustments and offsets like the rears in the photo above.

Unfortunately the kit comes with 2 different size bars. The longer of which, remains un-used at this stage, as its too wide for the TT-01/2 mounts. Although I am capable of screwing and mounting them, the extra width pushes/bows the posts out quite a bit. On initial dry fits with full height posts this was quiet noticeable and in my opinion probably way to flexible and prone to doing damage to the body, if a hard enough shunt or crash.

Having said that, however, now that I've had to trim the front posts right down, that flex may well and truly be less of an issue, but also, the shortened posts may mean there is not enough flex at all to even get the bar across? Something I may try later today once I've trimmed the remaining front post down.

Its a shame the Xtra Speed kit doesn't come with both bars equal size, even if there was one kit for long and one for short, as the shortened bar does fit perfectly between the caps that sit on top of the posts.

The initial dry fit for this looks to be good, as the rear bar sits just outside the Mustangs window and on the boot/spoiler section.

My only concern is, in order to get the Mustang to sit at decent height - about 2 to 4mm of space between top of tyre and wheel arch - the front mount has to be right on the VERY bottom pin hole for the mounting post. Which on the TT-01/2 XV-01 type posts, is right on the elbow joint, meaning I had to trim the strengthening, angled, plastic section in order to get the mount to slide far enough down. Even now, with the trimming and sanding, it didn't completely sit down far enough, but I still managed to get the body pin through with some force, to lock it in place. So obviously the post has been weakened to accommodate the mount, but by how much, and if this will truly cause an issue since the shaft is now much shorter and going to cause less flex/strain on the elbow, is unknown.

I think they should all be fine, the only question that will remain is if I stick with magnets, or instead opt for velcro ? As I have some concerns with the glue and magnets showing through the paint job based on tests I've already done - again another topic regarding Shoe Goo and alternatives.

[Nicadraus 6198]

Replaced the old BL motor Ares Pro 17.5 to Rocket V3 17.5. The Rocket has much more torque and magnets are very powerful compared to the Ares. Will test this on the track soon.

[Willy iine 18806]

Continuing on with the comical SS body, made dimples for the door handles, and pretty much finished sanding the driver side. 

Will work on the passenger side after a break.. I should be receiving the Blitzer Beetle cone today so will drill holes for the indicators and install onto this body as I want to use a winch on the front and the SS cone is too big..

Update..

Since the cone I got today (red one) was the wrong one I decided to just go with the SS nose.  The overall sanding is complete, doing the last round of putty and sanding.  Tomorrow I will clean up the nose joint and make the door handles.. If all goes well I will begin the painting over the weekend. 

[Yoshimitsu 3475]

[Willy iine 18806]

@Yoshimitsu You are several steps ahead of me!