Jump to content
Badboy

So, What Have You Done Today?

Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, Willy iine said:

I had the original back in the early 80’s as a kid.   I loved it.  It was my first real RC.    :D

Brats are particularly good fo people like you @Willy iine as the come with the two bodies.?that way you could choose between Olive drab or battleship red depending on your mood. Only issue with bodies in my opinion is the rear mounts. I’m certain they could have  moulded the lexan body the same as the ABS one. You could also bob the rear of the hard body to Bette fit your GF-01 chassis. There you go Christmas present sorted!!!!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I fitted the Yeah Racing shock wheelie bar to my GF01 and at the same time decided to swap the servo, ESC and radio gear. The servo was a super cheap one I got online in a hurry and it’s not great so put a Savox in. I’ve also replaced the stock Tamiya ESC for a Hobbywing. Finally a fired a Flysky radio kit as the GoolRC I purchased I've been using is flaky. 
 

All was pretty straightforward but the servo has been a pain! Have reset, measured, adjusted but I’m still getting really limited end point steering left.

@Willy iine or anyone else that’s built a GF01; Is there anything obvious I should watch out for that I might be missing with the servo? I just can’t work it out! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Frankster said:

How did you widen?

I used 9mm hex. I will do that with my Toyota too and post Pictures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Brats are particularly good fo people like you @Willy iine as the come with the two bodies.?that way you could choose between Olive drab or battleship red depending on your mood. Only issue with bodies in my opinion is the rear mounts. I’m certain they could have  moulded the lexan body the same as the ABS one. You could also bob the rear of the hard body to Bette fit your GF-01 chassis. There you go Christmas present sorted!!!!

Thanks Jeremy!

Hope you are feeling better and you are on the mend 👍

This is my 11th Blitzer chassis, I like the simplicity of it and it was the 1st Tamiya I bought when I got back into the hobby in 2007 ish along with a Pumpkin and a King Blackfoot.

The WR02 chassis is a firm favourite as well, I have many happy memories of running a WW2 with my daughters @ Centre Parcs many moons ago, I’m pretty sure this is my 8th one now 🤦

In time I’ll update and move up to more modern equivalent like a GF01, but for now I’m a happy camper. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, whahooo said:

I used 9mm hex. I will do that with my Toyota too and post Pictures.

Is the threaded drive shaft long enough?   Or do you need longer extended drive shaft?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Thanks Jeremy!

Hope you are feeling better and you are on the mend 👍

Thanks, doing really well. It’s hard to believe that it’s only 2 weeks since I underwent the surgery. The bodies ability to heal is quite phenomenal. Just hope the surgeon used the right type of threadlock on the screws!!! Now is the long slow bit allowing the bones and the metal to fuse.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Busdriver said:

Thanks, doing really well. It’s hard to believe that it’s only 2 weeks since I underwent the surgery. The bodies ability to heal is quite phenomenal. Just hope the surgeon used the right type of threadlock on the screws!!! Now is the long slow bit allowing the bones and the metal to fuse.

That’s good to read, maybe just gentle running on Nimh packs to start with and then move up to the Lipo when your hop ups have bedded in 😂

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Besides mostly work today and getting my 1:1 wheel resurfaced and painted at my buddy’s wheel repair shop,  I sprayed Willy’s helmet gloss blue, and disassembled the F-100 body to see how I can alter the look a little and to see how to fix (or make a new one) the broken rear bumper.

And received the rug in proper size for the space.. using humpbacks as weight to flatten.

IMG_Dec32021at51846PM.jpg.5236e6ecd57a71b2d0705119312aff7f.jpg

 

For kicks here is the repaired Prodrive wheel.  

 

How do you find the DW Ultralights? I've just moved to the Tama Classics! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was planning to give the 1/24 Karmann Ghia a quick rub down with Tamiya #3000 sponge before a final coat of gloss clear and it cut straight to the plastic! WTH? Luckily, I have just over a ml of sea blue premix left. Quick 2 coat blast to cover up the damage and a chance to try a new finishing method. Mixing in Mr Levelling Thinner into the last few drops of paint in the jar (not waste eh?), I sprayed this highly diluted mix (pure thinner can also work) over the paintwork actually melts the surface and evens it out for a smoother finish. Also, Mr Thinner can somehow change the properties of Tamiya acrylics and make them tougher. Still not as good a shine as the hardcore static builders but a better shine then I had before, even with gloss clear. 

(BTW, plastic bottles + blutac make a good painting stand) 

spacer.png

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Working on the TC01. I had to stop at the dampers because I have encountered some hop-up clashing. The YR big-bore dampers only come with 5.8mm ends, and my fancy T-works titanium ball ends are the standard Tamiya 5mm size. I am not removing the Ti balls, so I'll just have to find some nice dampers that fit properly. 

Also, I got Eagle Racing alu suspension arms and knuckles, which I found completely unusable. First, the lower arms don't hold the droop screws. Second, the upper arms replace the Ti balls I installed with captured balls of their own, so no. Finally, the knuckles rub against the CVD circlip thingies that hold the CVD shafts together, so also no. I just threw the whole Eagle Racing set away.

Other than that, pretty nice build so far lol. I've got it set up to accept a touring car body, because I'm not touching the formula E body with a 10-foot pole; too much work and I WILL mess it up.

2021-12-03-22-50-36.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Nikko85 said:

How do you find the DW Ultralights? I've just moved to the Tama Classics! 

Oh man, I love it.  Good eyes, btw!  Especially for cajon I want a low profile stand and DW has always been my go to for such items.  

I didn't know you played drums.  I have several Zildjan's on the same stands in my music lounge downstairs.

IMG_Dec42021at90458AM.jpg.64a663031285f71a4699fe264ea99a14.jpg

This room is separate from my music room and houses my other cajons including one in CF..

IMG_Dec42021at90730AM.jpg.3ce087c21ebf1e0b789b70642756ce86.jpg

Okay, before getting too off topic, this morning I noticed the blue Willy helmet I painted yesterday had a whole bunch of micro scratches showing through the gloss. :blink:  This usually happens when there is contamination on my sanding sponge and I dragged it unknowingly due to my poor vision..

Since I do a wet coat at the end, there was enough paint thickness to micro-mesh it out.. :D 

IMG_Dec42021at91101AM.jpg.cd73469c366da20b94938b92617c395a.jpg

Now moving onto prepping my GF01-SWB items for paint..

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@alvinlwh Those Tamiya sponge numbers are pretty irrelevant as you also found.  

They are much more coarse than they show in the beginning.  I mostly use #400 for shaping and a semi-worn  #1500 for minor touch ups between coats.   Any rub down would be better with a paper towel + tack towel vs a new Tamiya sponge.  :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@alvinlwh Those Tamiya sponge numbers are pretty irrelevant as you also found.  

They are much more coarse than they show in the beginning.  I mostly use #400 for shaping and a semi-worn  #1500 for minor touch ups between coats.   Any rub down would be better with a paper towel + tack towel vs a new Tamiya sponge.  :lol:

Exactly! #3000 should be very smooth yet it cut straight through 2 layers of clear + 2 layers of paint! Tcut had been suggested, that's what I will try with the next car. Cannot be bothered mixing up another batch of sea blue for this one if I screw it up again. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After 25 years receiving a couple of these cool boxes from Mr. Akira Kogawa, the latch finally broke.  So fixed it ready for another 25 years of use. :lol:

IMG_Dec42021at102441AM.jpg.4d7930248cdd5f81f8f1dc3dc8663ab1.jpg

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also finished painting @simensays GP wheels (similar design as the ones on my M38, but with hex hub) for my GF01-SWB that will be started soon.   I love the design of these wheels.  

Matte black backing, face is TS70 olive drab.  

IMG_Dec42021at11522PM.jpg.6963506e7f1897b39424b716e283b3ce.jpg

 

Similar to this design...

IMG_Apr242021at92417AM.thumb.jpg.0be96b109eaf37dff4ab425894c5a31b.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent a couple of hours finishing up the GF01 upgrade. Turns out the steering issue was due to the servo saver. It had a slight split on the seam! Sorted now.

I think I’m pretty much done with upgrades now on this one ;)

CB9AFF41-CB05-456F-9057-AF7406BDAEA3.thumb.jpeg.ec90e27d9d141925da626c38ae229389.jpeg

6C4F92CF-030B-4E20-8280-A7BE1B0437F1.thumb.jpeg.71fe1002c8f228aa841ed276d7225340.jpeg

8C119AE9-5BF8-48AF-AD6F-143993E9ED4B.thumb.jpeg.5094b253ca3259f7fc5c69196e9c35c6.jpeg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, GeeWings said:

Spent a couple of hours finishing up the GF01 upgrade. Turns out the steering issue was due to the servo saver. It had a slight split on the seam! Sorted now.

I think I’m pretty much done with upgrades now on this one ;)

Looks fantastic. I do love the GF-01 chassis. What's the rear bumper doing in the middle of the chassis?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, toyolien said:

Looks fantastic. I do love the GF-01 chassis. What's the rear bumper doing in the middle of the chassis?

That’s part of Kumamon’s bench of course 😆

7D841C30-2FB1-474F-8AE3-925E5E1C8038.thumb.jpeg.7495f359c6be9c2f3e02c65960fef51f.jpeg

it actually fits pretty perfectly and lines up well with the body shell

  • Like 4
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Painted and installed @nicherotors side mirrors on my City Turbo. 

IMG_Dec42021at61514PM.jpg.03701d8ed8c50edd1fe2a06f377fe42d.jpg

IMG_Dec42021at61537PM.jpg.ca90f58912157bfddebf8eeb9a8fa955.jpg

The mirrors point upwards on the ends like the Sand Scorcher and Billy’s ClubBug factory mirrors.  

IMG_Dec42021at61936PM.jpg.f3e16a1deaae0403cda45b499375d689.jpg

This is how I did my Willy’s Wheeler mirrors using off the shelf mirrors and adjusting the base to minimize droop.   I tried doing the opposite on the City Turbo mirrors, but could not gain enough downward angle so just went per design . 

IMG_Oct142021at21200PM.thumb.jpg.5ef8aeb2d9c02e932f93e3df2a48f870.jpg

Anyway, will play with it some more at the neck when I have time.  :D

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Willy iine said:

 

IMG_Oct142021at21200PM.thumb.jpg.5ef8aeb2d9c02e932f93e3df2a48f870.jpg

Anyway, will play with it some more at the neck when I have time.  :D

Is it me or does "The Shank" seem to be set too much to the left (too close to the door)? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the final stretch of my 1/24 build of the Karmann Ghia. 

Last view of the interior before sealing up. 

spacer.png

Body shell on. 

spacer.png

Engine bay. 

spacer.png

Wheels done. I have to say this is one of the rare instance that Tamiya made a screw up. They are to be painted with white yet moulded in black. Anyone know it is easier to paint dark over light but not the other way round. 

spacer.png

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Painted and installed @nicherotors side mirrors on my City Turbo. 

IMG_Dec42021at61514PM.jpg.03701d8ed8c50edd1fe2a06f377fe42d.jpg

IMG_Dec42021at61537PM.jpg.ca90f58912157bfddebf8eeb9a8fa955.jpg

The mirrors point upwards on the ends like the Sand Scorcher and Billy’s ClubBug factory mirrors.  

IMG_Dec42021at61936PM.jpg.f3e16a1deaae0403cda45b499375d689.jpg

This is how I did my Willy’s Wheeler mirrors using off the shelf mirrors and adjusting the base to minimize droop.   I tried doing the opposite on the City Turbo mirrors, but could not gain enough downward angle so just went per design . 

IMG_Oct142021at21200PM.thumb.jpg.5ef8aeb2d9c02e932f93e3df2a48f870.jpg

Anyway, will play with it some more at the neck when I have time.  :D

Smashed it out of the park, quality work, and a fantastic Wheelies Wheeler 😎

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Grumpy pants said:

Smashed it out of the park, quality work, and a fantastic Wheelies Wheeler 😎

What is the difference between a Willys Wheeler and the Honda city Turbo????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...